IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


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CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  institut  canadien  de  microreproductions  historiques 

1980 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes/Notes  techniques  et  bibliographlques 


The  Institute  has  attempted  to  obtain  the  best 
original  copy  available  for  filming.  Features  of  this 
copy  which  may  be  bibliographically  unique, 
which  may  alter  any  of  the  images  in  the 
reproduction,  or  which  may  significantly  change 
the  usual  method  of  filming,  are  checked  below. 


L'Institut  a  microfilm^  le  meilleur  exemplaire 
qu'il  lui  a  6t6  possible  de  se  procurer.  Les  details 
de  cet  exemplaire  qui  sont  peut-dtre  uniques  du 
point  de  vue  bibliographique,  qui  pcuvent  modifier 
une  image  reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  d*)ns  la  m^thode  normale  de  filmage 
sont  indiquds  ci-dessous. 


D 
D 
D 
D 


D 


y 


D 


Coloured  covers/ 
Couverture  de  couleur 


Covers  damaged/ 
Couverture  endommagde 


Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restaurde  et/ou  pelliculde 


Cover  title  missing/ 

Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 


□    Coloured  maps/ 
Cartes  g^ographiques  en  couleur 


□    Coloured  ink  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 
Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 


□    Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations/ 
Planches  et/ou  illustrations  en  couleur 


Bound  with  other  material/ 
Reli6  avec  d'autres  documents 

Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 
along  interior  margin/ 

La  reliure  serr^e  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
distortion  le  long  de  la  marge  intdrieure 

Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  se  peut  que  certaines  pages  blanches  ajoutdes 
lors  d'une  restauration  apparaissent  dans  le  texte, 
mais,  lorsque  cela  6tait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  6tf-  filmdes. 


□    Coloured  pages/ 
Pages  de  couleur 

□    Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommagdes 

□    Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Pages  restaurdes  et/ou  pellicul6es 

□    Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 
Pages  ddcolor^es,  tachet^es  ou  piqudes 

□    Pages  detached/ 
Pages  d6tach6es 

□    Showthrough/ 
Transparence 

□    Quality  of  print  varies/ 
Quality  indgale  de  Timpression 

□    Includes  supplementary  material/ 
Comprend  du  matdriel  supplementaire 

□    Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Edition  disponible 


D 


Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc.,  have  been  refilmed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 
Les  pages  totalement  ou  partiellement 
obscurcies  par  un  feuillet  d'errata,  une  pelure, 
etc.,  ont  6t6  filmdes  d  nouveau  de  fa^on  d 
obtenir  la  meilleure  image  possible. 


D 


Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  !;uppl6mentaires: 


0 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  film6  au  taux  de  reduction  indiqu6  ci-dessous. 


10X 

14X 

18X 

22X 

26X 

30X 

^/ 

12X 


16X 


20X 


24X 


28X 


32X 


The  copy  filmed  here  has  been  reproduced  thanks 
to  the  generosity  of: 

Ralph  Pickard  Bell  Library 
Mount  Allison  University 


L'exemplaire  filrn^  fut  reproduit  grdce  d  la 
gdndrositd  de: 

Ralph  Pickard  Bell  Library 
Mount  Allison  Unitrersity 


The  images  appearing  here  are  the  best  quality 
possible  considering  the  condition  and  legibility 
of  the  original  copy  and  in  keeping  with  the 
filming  contract  specifications. 


Les  images  suivantes  ont  6t6  reproduites  avec  le 
plus  grand  soin,  compte  tenu  de  la  condition  et 
de  la  nettetd  de  l'exemplaire  film6,  et  en 
conformity  avec  les  conditions  du  contrat  de 
filmage. 


Original  copies  in  printed  paper  covers  are  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, or  the  back  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
■y<  illustrated  impression. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  ^♦-(meaning  "CON- 
TINUED "),  or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  "END  "), 
whichever  applies. 


Les  exemplaires  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  imprimde  sont  filmds  en  commen^ant 
par  le  premier  plat  et  en  terminant  soit  par  la 
dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration,  soit  par  le  second 
plat.      Ion  le  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exemplaires 
originaux  sont  filmds  en  commenqant  par  la 
premidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 

Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparaitra  sur  la 
dernidre  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  le  symbole  — »►  signifie  "A  SUIVRE",  le 
symbole  V  signifie  "FIN". 


Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  dtre 
filmds  d  des  taux  de  reduction  diff^rents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  dtre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  clichd,  il  est  film^  d  partir 
de  Tangle  supdrieur  gauche,  de  gauche  k  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  n^cessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrent  la  mdthode. 


1 

2 

3 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

A' 


BET 


CAP 

NKV 

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LON 


V\ 


THE 


Atlantic  Coast  Guide. 


A  Companion  for  the  Tourist 


BETWEEN  NEWFOUNDLAND  AND  CAPE  MAY. 


INCLUDING  SKETCHES   OF 


CAPF,  KRETON, 
NKW  BRUNSWICK, 
PKNUHSCUI'  HAY, 
ISLKS  OK  SHOALS, 
MASSACHUSEITS  BAV, 
NANJUCKKT, 
NARRAGANSKTT, 
CONNKCTICU'I-  COAS 
SIAIKN  ISLAND, 
LONG  liRANCH, 


W'ltli    an  Account 


NOVA  SCOTIA, 
GRAND   MENAN, 
CAS  CO  HAY, 


O  NEWPORT, 
^     LONG  ISLAND* 


'A^D, 

fy. 

CAPE  MAY. 


all  Sdinmei-  Resarts. 


NEW  YORK: 

E.  P.  DUTTON  AND  COMPANY. 

BOSTON: 

A.  WILLIAMS  AND  COMPANY. 

1873. 


Entered  accordiug  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1873,  by 

E.  P.  DUTTON   AND  COMPANY, 

In  the  Office  of  the  Llbrariun  of  Congress,  at  Washington. 


'       >       V 


Be 


150611 

M«morta9 


HOW  TO  USE  THIS  BOOK. 


This  book  has  grown  out  of  the  author's  summer  travel, 
and  is  divided  into  two  parts.  In  the  first  part,  the  tourist  is 
taken  eastward  from  Portland ;  and  in  the  second,  southward 
from  Portland.  This  plan  furnishes  the  best  geographical 
division  of  the  subject.  The  paging  of  the  two  sections  is 
kept  distinct,  as  the  author  intends  to  make  additions  to 
both  parts  from  year  to  year. 

While  care  has  been  taken  to  secure  the  accuracy  demand- 
ed in  a  guide,  it  is  hoped  that  the  literary  character  of  the 
book  may  fit  it  for  some  degree  of  usefulness  as  a  companion. 

In  searching  for  any  particular  subject,  the  reader  will 
do  well  to  consult  the  indices  which  follow  this  preface. 


'!".■?■'«'■ 


iisriDEx: 


SECTION  I. 


/ 


Annapolis « 83,  84 

Baddeck 87 

Bedford  Basin 84 

Baulardaie 87 

Calais 76 

Gampo  Bello 74 

Cape  Breton 86 

Conway 83 

Capuchins 29 

Castine 27 

Dlgby 83 

Doer  Isle 81 

DarkCove 67 

Eastern  Maine 74 

Eastport 74 

Evangeline 84 

Friar's  Head 74 

Fort  Sullivan 75 

Frodcrickton 81,  82 

GrandPre 82 

Grand  Menan 35 

Gulls 67 


Halifax 84,  86 

Jonesport 86 

Kennebec 20 

Ijubec 38 

Liake  Brasd'Or 87,  88 

Loch  Ainsleo 87,  88 

Liouisbcrg 87 

Mt.  Desert 16,  17,84 

Moosehead 17 

Monhagen 21 

New  Brunswick 76 

Nova  Scotia 83 

Old  Town 26,  28 

Plaster  Cove 88 

Pleasant  Point 78 

Petit  Menan 36 

Portland 16 

Bobbinston 75 

St.  John's 82 

St.  Andrew's 76 

St.  George's  Mt 87 


SECTION  II. 


Appledore 14 

Atlantic  City 135 

Buzzard's  Bay 122 

Oasco  Bay 3 

Capo  Ann 64 

Coney  Island 133 

Cape  May 135 

Essex 61 

Elizabeth  Isles 120 

East  Hampton 133 

Falmouth  Heights 109 

Fire  Island 133 

Gay  Head Ill 

Guilford 131 

Greenpoint 131 

Hampton  Beach Ill 

Highland  Light •. 101 

IslesofShoals 13 

Lynn 77 

Long  Branch 135 

Merrimack  River 66 

Merry  Mount 86 

Martha's  Vineyard 109 

Montank  Point 132 

Newburyport 58 

Nahant 94 


Nantucket 88, 117 

Naushon.'. 120 

New  Bedford 126 

Narragansett 129 

Newport 136 

New  London 131 

Navesink 135 

OldOrchard T 

Portland 4 

Portsmouth „ 9 

Plum  Island 69 

Pigeon  Cove 69 

Plymouth 89 

yrovincetown 95 

Port  Monmouth 135 

Red  Bank 135 

Richmond's  Is 4 

RyeBeach,  N.  H 11 

Rockport 70 

Salem 74 

Sea  Serpent 81 

Stonington 131 

Staten  Island 133,134 

Sandy  Hook 135 

Wood's  Hole 109 

York  Beach S 


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>  ->T        r'-V        * 

GEKERAI  INTRODUCTION 


TO  THE  NEW  ENGLAND  CO  A  ST 


CHAPTER     I. 

The  Coast  —Its  Beauties  —  Irs  Peculiarities  —  Its  Rit- 
ERS  —  The  Northmen  —  Cabot  — Verrazz ano  —  Gosnold 

—  pRiNO— De  BIonts  — Weyjiouth  —  Popiiam's   Colony 

—  The  Dutch  — Hendrick  Hudson  — The  Jesuits. 

[HAT  which  is  dearly  bought  is  highly 
prized;  and  hence  scenes  viewed  when 
travelling  afar  are  esteemed  above  those 
found  nigh  at  hand.  Tourists  flock  annu- 
ally to  the  Old  World  in  search  of  natural  beauties,  as 
if  there  were  nothing  in  our  own  land  to  excite  admi- 
I  ration.  And  yet  we  have  every  variety  of  moun- 
tain and  coast  scenery,  equal,  if  not  superior,  to  that 
of  foreign  countries,  almost  within  sight  of  all  our 
doors.  •  -    '  . 

We  hear  much,  for  instancy,  of  the  coast-scenery  of 

Cornwall,  the  Isle  of  Wight,  and  the  Mediterranean, 

but  we  need  not  fear  to  place  in  comparison  the  varied 

land  romantic  beauties  of  the  coast  of  Maine.    The 

entire  seaboard  is  fretted  and  fringed  in  the  most  re- 


I    ' 


9 


Bird'S'Eye  Views, 


markable  manner,  forming  a  long-drawn  labyrinth  of 
capes,  bays,  headlands,  and  isles.  The  mingling  of 
land  and  water  is  indeed  admirable.  *  Here  a  cape,  all 
clad  in  pine  greenery,  extendy  dut  into  the  sea,  coquet- 
tishly  encircling  a  great  field  of  blue  waves ;  there  a 
bold  headland,  with  its  outlying  drongs,  meets  and  buf- 
fets the  billows  with  catapultic  force;  here  the  bright 
fiord  runs  merrily  up  into  the  land,  the  hills  stepping 
down  to  its  borders,  mirroring  their  outlines  as  in  a 
glass ;  there  a  hundred  isles  are  sown,  like  sparkling 
emeralds,  in  the  summer  sea. 

We  need  not  plunge  into  the  wild  interior  of  Maine, 
and  wander  amid  its  mountains  and  lakes  and  streams, 
in  order  to  discover  a  wealth  of  beauty.  All  that  one 
can  reasonably  desire  is  found  on  the  border.  Sailing 
northward,  the  shores  of  the  Atlantic  are  found  com- 
paratively uninteresting  until  we  approach  the  coast  of 
Maine,  when  all  tameness  vanishes,  and  the  shore  puts 
on  a  bold,  rugged  beauty  that  could  hardly  be  surpassed. 

Whoever  carefully  examines  a  good  map  of  the 
continents  will  perceive  that,  in  a  multitude  of  cases, 
amounting  almost  to  a  general  rule,  the  capes  point 
southwf  d,  and  that  groups  of  islands  are  found 
south  of  the  land.  Or  otherwise,  that,  as  we  proceed 
southward,  we  find  the  land  tapering  away  and  termi- 
nating in  islands.  This  we  have  seen  is  eminently 
true  of  the  coast  of  Maine.  To  account  for  the  pres- 
ent configuration  of  this  coast  is  extremely  difficult. 
It  looks  as  if  its  shores  had  been  broken  and  serrated 


Bird'S'Eye  Vieivs, 


f  the       1 

cases,        1 

point       1 
found 

roceed 

termi- 
aently 

J  pres- 
fficult. 

rrated 

by  glaciers,  which,  as  Agassiz  tells  us,  once  covered  the 
entire  State.  Before  the  grand  retreat  of  the  ice  pe- 
riod, t.  ose  vast  glaciers,  slowly  descending  from  the 
mountains  to  the  sea,  might,  perhaps,  in  long  ages,  have 
thus  ploughed  out  portions  of  the  shores,  forming 
capes  and  bays ;  yet  we  must,  in  many  cases,  account 
for  the  islands,  at  least,  by  other  causes.  Some  are 
clearly  the  result  of  upheaval,  while  others  may  have 
been  formed  by  the  sinking  of  neighboring  land  be- 
neath the  surface  of  the  waves.  Yet,  however  this 
may  be,  the  coast  of  Maine  presents  an  appearance 
similar  to  what  the  Duke  of  Bourbon  called,  "  that 
nook-shotten  isle  of  Albion.'**  And  from  its  broken 
outline  comes  its  beauty. 

In  approaching  the  coast,  the  first  landmark  seen 
is  Agamenticus,  a  naountain  lying  in  the  county  of 
York,  just  east  of  the  Piscataqua.  Off  Portsmouth 
we  come  among  the  islands,  and  here  are  found  the 
noted  Isles  of  Shoals.  Thence  we  mfty  voyage  for  two 
hundred  miles,  through  a  maze  of  islands,  until  we 
pass  Grand  Menan  and  Passamaquoddy  Bay. 

Four  noble  riveps  empty  on  the  coast.  These  are 
the  Saco,  which  rises  in  the  White-Mountain  Notch ; 
the  Androscoggin,  flowing  from  the  Umbagog  Lakes  ; 
1  the  Kennebec,  from  the  famous  Moosehead  Lake  ; 
I  while  the  noble  Penobscot  wanders  down  to  the  sea 
I  from  its  springs  around  the  feet  of  cloud-splitting  Ka- 
Itahdin.  Each  of  these  streams,  except  the  Andros- 
coggin, has  its  own  b#ad  bay.    These  bays  became  the 


to 


Bird's-Eye  Views. 


i6ats  of  colonization,  and,  like  the  entire  coast  of  Maine, 
they  are  noted  in  early  history.  And  this  brings  us 
to  take  a  hasty  glance  of  the  first  voyagers  to  the  coast, 
in  order  that  we  may  better  understand  the  ground. 

The  Pre-Columbiati  discovery  of  America  is  noW 
t^garded  as  a  fact.  The  authenticity  of  the  Icelandic 
histories  has  been  amply  vindicated,  and  there  is  no 
difficulty  in  believing  that  the  entire  Atlantic  coast  ly- 
ing above  the  forty-second  parallel,  was  more  or  less 
familiar  to  the  Icelandic  navigators.  Yet  the  shores 
6f  Maii\e  are  not  described  in  any  of  the  Sagas.^  The 
principal  voyages  were  made  to  a  locality  called  Vin- 
land,  near  the  southeastern  part  of  Massachusetts,  for 
which  place  they  laid  their  course  when  leaving  the 
headlands  of  Nova  Scotia.  Consequently,  while  the 
shores  of  Labrador  and  Nova  Scotia  are  delineated 
with  considerable  minuteness,  nothing  appears  to  ap- 
ply to  the  coast  of  Maine. 

Biarne,  Son  of  Heriulf,  who  was  driven  upon  the 
American  coast  in  the  year  985,  doubtless  saw  this 
part  of  the  country,  and  the  early  voyagers  probably 
tame  thither  in  their  expeditions  to  obtain  timber ;  but 
the  history  of  M-aine  was  nevertheless  a  blank  as  late 
as  the  close  of  the  sixteenth  century.  About  five 
years  after  the  discovery  of  America  by  Columbus,  the 
Cabot  brothers  sailed  southward  along  the  coast  of 

^  (1)  For  an  account  of  these  Icelandic  writings,  Bee  "  The  Pre-Co- 
lumbian  Liscovory  of  America  by  the  Northmen/'  published  by  Joel 
ilansell,  Albany,  1868.  ^ 


Bird's-Eye  Views. 


II 


Maine,  though  without  leaving  any  memorial.  In 
1504  the  Biscay  fishermen  are  kijown  to  have  fre- 
quented the  neighboring  seas;  while  in  15^4,  possibly, 
Verrazzano  coasted    northward  past   these  romantic 

fchores.  - 

The  first  distinct  mention  of  this  coast  is  made  in 
the  account  of  Gosnold's  voyage  in  1602.  Gosuold, 
who  sailed  from  Falmouth,  England,  March  2G,  came 
m  sight  of  the  Coast  of  Maine,  May  4,  in  about  the  43d 
degree  of  north  latitude.  The  land  seen  by  him  may 
have  been  Agamenticus,  though  some  persons  offer 
the  opinion  that  it  was  Mount  Desert.^  Here  Gos- 
nold  met  eight  Indians  in  a  shallop,  which  they  had 
probably  obtained  of  some  Biscay  fishermen. 

June  7,  the  year  following,  Martin  Pring  came  in 
sight  of  the  coast,  and  afterwards  explored  the  entire 
seaboard.  The  Northmen  and  Biscayans  were  doubt- 
less accustomed  to  land  here ;  still,  the  name  of  Mar- 
tin Pring  is  the  first  that  we  find  in  connection  with 
any  known  achievement.  The  accounts  which  he 
gave  on  his  return  were  reliable  and  exact. 

In  the  winter  of  1G04-5,  DeMonts,  with  his  party 
I  who  came  from  France  in  the  preceding  May,  lived 


(1)  "A  skilful  navigator,  three  years  afterwards,  found  that  Capt. 
I Gosnold  had  marked  places  in  this  region,  at  half  a  degree  below 
[the  true  latitude;  and  it  ie  certain  that  the  central  Isle  of  Shoals, 
[•which  is  in  lat.  42®  29,  is  south  of  the  llrst  land  ho  saw."  Williair  .n's 
iHlstory  of  Maine,  Vol.  i.  p.  185.     Agamenticus  is  the  sightly  emi- 

lenco  in  the  town  of  York,  eight  mile«  northwest  of  its  harbor,  and 

tear  the  Fiecataqua  Kirer. 


■      'I 


12 


Bird's-Eye  Views. 


on  an  island  in  the  St.  Croix  River.  In  the  spring, 
De  Monts,  attended  by  Champlain  and  other  gentle- 
men, coasted  southward  in  a  small  vessel,  erecting  a 
cross  at  the  Kennebec,  and  taking  formal  possession  of 
the  territory  in  the  name  of  the  King  of  France ;  not- 
withstanding the  voyage  of  Pring,  according  to  the 
views  of  that  age,  gave  to  the  English  Tjrjwn  a  prior 
right. 

In  May  of  the  same  year,  George  Weymouth  came 
out  with  an  expedition  under  the  patronage  of  the 
Earl  of  Southampton,  the  friend  of  Shakspeare,  and 
on  the  seventeenth  of  the  month  reached  an  island  on 
the  coast,  which  he  called  St.  George.  This  island 
was  probably  Monhegan.  He  afterwards  explored 
the  country,  and  then  returned  to  England,  carrying 
with  him  several  Indians  whom  he  kidnapped  for  the 
purpose. 

In  1607  George  Popham  attempted  to  found  a  col- 
ony at  Sagadahoc,  where  a  fort  and  various  buildings 
were  erected.  His  first  thought  was  to  commence  his 
colony  on  Stage  Island,  but  he  afterwards  removed  to 
the  peninsula.  It  is  claimed  that  this  was  the  first 
attempt  to  colonize  the  coast  of  Maine;  though  per- 
haps we  should  wait  further  developments  before  posi- 
tively settling  down  in  this  belief.  There  still  remain 
large  quantities  of  unpublished  manuscript  relating  to 
Maine,  and  the  commission  now  (1868)  engaged  abroad 
in  collecting  material  may  possibly  discover  testimony 
hat  will  place  this  whole  question  in  a  new  light. 


Bird's-Eye  Views. 


13 


pnug. 
jentle- 
ting  a 
}ion  of 
1;  not- 
to  the 
t  prior 

ticame 
of  the 
re,  and 
land  on 
i  island 
xplored 
parrying 
for  the 

d  a  col- 
•uildings 
ence  his 
loved  to 
the  first 
gh  per- 
bre  posi- 
11  remain 
lating  to 
(d  abroad 
estimony 
ight. 


[1 


The  colony  at  Sagadahoc  was  composed  chielfly  of 
people  more  or  less  attached  to  the  Church  of  Eng- 
land. They  brought  their  chaplain  with  them,  and 
held  Divine  Service  here  on  the  coast  of  New  Eng- 
land, tliirteen  years  before  tlie  Plymouth  Pilgrims 
landed  on  the  shores  of  Cape  Cod.  As  is  well  known, 
after  making  a  fair  beginning,  they  were  obliged  to 
[give  up  the  enterprise  and  return  to  England. 

This  has  been  claimed  as  the  first  attempt  to  colo- 
[nize  the  State  of  Maine ;  yet  we  should  be  careful  not 
to  overlook  the  claims  of  the  Dutch.  Says  General  de 
jPeyster :  "At  two  points  of  this  interesting  and  beau- 
jtiful  coast  the  Dutch  planted  the  honored  flag  of  the 
[United  Provinces;  and,  at  several  other  points,  they 
[themselves  were  located  by  their  English  conquerors  ; 
rho,  desirous  of  availing  themselves  of  their  thrift  and 
[industry  ^transplanted  them  thither,  from  the  shores  of 
^the  Hudson."  We  do  not  know  the  precise  period 
iwhen  they  first  made  their  appearance,  though  at 
|the  latest  it  must  have  been  soon  after  the  Plymouth 

*ilgrims  fixed  their  habitations  on  the  shore  of  Mas- 
jachusetts  Bay.     The  site  of  one  settlement  was  at 

Iroad  Bay,  now  called  Muscongus    Bay,  lying   be- 
tween  Pleasant  Point  and   Pemaquid  Point.      The 

>uke  de  la  Rochefoucault,  in  his  travels,  says  that  the 

)utch  attempted  to  settle  at  New  Castle  in  1607.     In 
^he  annals  of  the  town  of  Warren  it  is  also  said  that 

The  Dutch,  as  early  as  1607,  and  again  in  1625,  at- 

?mpted  to  settle  at  Damariscotta.     Cellars  and  chimo 


•Vi      7 


14 


Bird's-Eyc  Views. 


neys,  apparently  of  great  antiquity,"  it  is  said,  "  bo-ve 
been  found  in  tbe  town  of  New  Castle;  and  copper 
knives  and  spoons,  of  antique  and  singular  fasbion, 
are  occasionally  dug  up  witb  tbe  supposed  Indian  skel- 
etons, .at  tbe  present  day,  indicating  an  early  inter- 
course between  tbe  nations  of  tbe  continents.  8imi- 
lar  utensils,  and  tbe  foundations  of  cliimneys,  now 
many  feet  under  ground,  bave  also  been  discovered  on 
Monbegan,  as  well  as  on  Carver's  Island,  at  tbe  en- 
trance of  St.  George's  River,  wbere  are  said  to  be  also 
the  remains  of  a  stone  bouse." 

Among  tbe  vestiges  of  tbe  Dutcb  in  Maine  we  may 
perbaps  class  an  old  canal,  at  Pemaquid,  wbicb  Wil- 
liamson says  was  built  ^'  by  bands  unknown."  At  tbe 
same  place  was  a  bandsomely  paved  street,  "like  tlie 
canal,"  tbe  "work  of  unknown  [?]  bands."  Possibly, 
as  General  de  Peyster  says,  "tbe  documents  *may  yet 
be  found,  substantiating  tbat  Acadie  was  Dutcb  before 
an  ,  Englisb  eye  looked  upon  ber  evergreen  forests,  or 
pressed  ber  mossy  sbores."  Tbis  notion  may  explain 
tbe  fact  tbat  in  1676  tbe  Dutcb  sent  a  man-of-war,  Uie 
frigate  Flying  Horse,  under  Captain  Jurriaen  Aern- 
outs,  wbo  captured  tbe  Frencb  Fort  at  Castine,  on  tbe 
Penobscot. 

The  colony  establisbed  by  De  Monts,  at  Port  Royal, 
was  abandoned,  but  in  1611  it  was  re-establisbed  by 
Poutrincourt,  wbo  brougbt  over  Fatber  Pierre  Biard, 
a  Jesuit  Professor  of  Tbeology  at  Lyons,  and  Fatber 
Masse.    Tbe  next  year  tbe  Marcbioness  de  Guercbe"* 


¥ 


Bird's-Eye  Views. 


n 


ville,  tho  warm  friend  and  patron  of  the  mission,  in- 
daced  De  Monts  to  surrender  his  patent,  when  it  was 
conferred  upon  her  by  Louis  XIII.,  who  added  all  the 
territory  in  America  between  the  St.  Lawrenpe  and 
Florida,  with  the  exception  of  Port  Royal,  which  had 
been  previously  confirmed  to  Poutrincourt.  In  1613 
the  Marchioness  prepared  to  take  full  possession  of  her 
[territory  in  America.  Le  Saussaye  commanded  the 
jship  that  was  sent  out,  and  with  him  went  Fathers* 
[Quentin  and  Lallemant  and  Gilbert  du  Thet.  Arriv- 
ig  at  Port  Royal  they  found  Fathers  Biard  and  Masse 
In  a  sorry  plight,  like  the  rest  of  the  colonists,  who 
rere  pressed  for  food. 

Father  Biard  had  already  visited  the  Penobscot, 

rith  which  ho  was  very  favorably  impressed,  an<J  now 

jit  was  resolved  to  go  there  and  establish  a  colony  and 

lission.     Accordingly  the  Jesuits  of  Port  Royal  went 

m  board  the  "Honfleur"  and  sailed  for  that  place; 

)ut  how  *hey  failed  to  reach  it,  how  they  landed  at 

[ount  Desert,  and  were  afterwards  expelled  by  the 

Inglish,  we  must  leave  to  be  told  by  others. 


EASTWARD    BY    RAIL. 

CHAPTER   II. 

Portland  —  Westbrook  —  Yarmouth  —  Brunswick  — 
Bath  —  Rockland— Tiiomaston — Richmond — Gardin- 
er—Hallowell— Augusta — Waterville — Bangor — 
Oldtown  —  Fredericton  —  St.  John'  s  —  Moosehead 
Lake — Umbaoog — Katahdin. 

[N  going  "  Down  East,"  we  may  travel  either 
by  land  or  water.  The  route  by  steamer 
between  Portland  and  Eastport  is  described 
in  the  two  following  chapters,  which  treat 
of  Penobscot  Bay  and  Grand  Menan.  Before  going  on 
this  voyage,  however,  it  will  be  proper  to  point  out  the 
route  by  rail,  which,  with  the  exception  of  a  small 
break  in  Nova  Scotia,  takes  the  tourist  to  Pictou, 
Schediac  and  Halifax.  By  this  route  the  tourist  pro- 
ceeds to  Bangor,  and  thence  to  St.  John's,  New  Bruns- 
wick, by  the  European  and  North  American  Railway. 
Leaving  Portland  by  the  Portland  and  Kennebec 
Railroad,  we  find  the  principal  stations  as  follows: 
Westbrook  (5  miles)  is  a  flourishing  town,  with  pleas- 
ant scenery.  Yarmouth  (16  miles)  forms  the  intersec- 
tion of  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway,  diverging  to  Quebec 
and  Montreal.     Brunswick  comes  next — distant  from 


.C*l 


t-in, 


Eastward  by  Rail. 


17 


SWICK  — 

Gardin- 

iANGOR— 
►OSEIIEAD 

vol  either 
y  steamer 
described 
[hicb  treat 
>  going  on 
nt  out  the 
)f  a  small 
bo  Pictou, 
jurist  pro- 
ew  Bruns- 
Railway. 
Kennebec 
\%  follows: 
with  pleas- 
le  intersec- 
to  Quebec 
istant  from 


rortland  30  miles.  Founded  in  1794,  it  is  tlie  scat  of 
Bowdoin  College,  a  well-known  institution  of  learning. 
Here  the  road  branches  eastward,  and  runs  to  Bath, 
situated  fourteen  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  Kenne- 
bec, and  goes  on  to  Thomaston  and  Rockland,  situated 
on  the  southern  border  of  Penobscot  Bay,  and  cele- 
brated for  the  production  of  lime. 

Returning  to  Bath,  we  go  on  to  Richmond,  46  miles 
from  Portland;  Gardiner,  56  ;  Ilallowell,  61 ;  Augusta, 
the  capital  of  Mame,  63  miles.  At  this  point  one  may 
take  the  steamer,  descend  the  Kennebec,  and  return  to 
Portland  by  sea.  We,  however,  go  on  to  Waterville, 
83  miles  from  Portland,  and  the  seat  of  a  Baptist  col- 
ege.  Continuing  by  the  Maine  Central  Railway,  wc 
ass  Clinton  (92  miles),  Pittsfield  (104),  Newport  (114), 

exter  (128),  and  finally  reach  Bangor  (138);  this  is 
ne  of  the  largest  and  most  prosperous  cities  of  Maine. 
It  is  situated  at  the  head  of  tide-water  on  the  Penob- 
scot, a  portion  of  the  city  lying  on  either  side  of  the 
river.  There  is  an  abundance  of  water-power  and  a 
convenient  badn  for  ships.  The  water  rises  and  falls 
•bout  16  feet.     The  Kenduskeag  River  empties  here. 

angor  is  the  seat  of  a  well-known  Theological  Semi- 

ry.     Its  specialty  is  the  lumber  trade. 

The  tourist  may  now  take  the  mail  coach  and  go  to 
Jit.  Desert,  distant  40  miles ;  or  push  on  by  rail  to 
Oldtcwn,  th»3  home  of  the  famous  Indians,  of  whom 
•Ome  accouTjt  is  given  in  the  chapter  on  Penobscot  Bay. 
QJdtown  is  12  miles  from  Bangor,  Milford  13,  Passa- 


■fcs- 


i8 


Eastward  by  Rail. 


dumkeag  31,  Winn  56,  Mattawamkcag  58.  Thence 
the  route  lies  by  Frcdcricton,  N.  B.  Leaving  Frederic- 
ton,  we  descend  towards  the  St.  John's  River  to  St.  John's. 
Towards  the  close  of  this  section  of  the  journey  the 
tourist  has  some  lovely  views  of  the  romantic  St.  John's. 

Whoever  desires  to  visit  Mooschcad  Lake  when  pur- 
suing this  route,  may  do  so  by  taking  the  branch  road 
at  Oldtown,  and  going  to  Foxcroft.  Thence  the  route 
is  by  stage,  32  miles,  which  is  four  miles  less  than  that 
pursued  in  branching  off  at  Waterville  for  Carrituck 
Fall.  By  taking  the  latter  route,  however,  the  railway 
will  carry  the  tourist  through  Norridgewock,  the  home 
of  the  Jesuit,  Father  Rasle,  so  celebrated  in  early  New 
England  history,  and  concerning  whom  Whittier  has 
much  to  say  in  his  poem  of  Mogg  Megone. 

Moosehead  Lake  is  35  miles  long  and  10  miles  wide, 
though  in  the  centre  there  is  a  passage  not  more  than 
one  mile  wide.  The  water  is  deep,  and  the  lumber 
boats  afford  tourists  the  means  of  transit.  The  princi- 
pal hotel  is  the  Kineo  House,  near  the  central  portion 
of  the  lake.  On  the  west  side  is  Mount  Kineo,  600 
feet  high.  There  is  hardly  room  here  to  sound  the 
praises  of  this  splendid  lake,  so  popular  with  hunters 
and  fishermen.  From  the  Kineo  Hon.se  the  visitor  may 
proceed  by  boat  or  canoe  down  the  west  branch  of  the 
Penobscot,  and  approach  Katahdin,  the  highest  moun- 
tain in  Maine,  6,885  feet  above  the  sea. 

In  going  to  the  Grand  Lak^s  in  Washington  County, 
the  route  is  by  steamer  to  Calais,  and  from  thence  by 


Eastward  by  Rail. 


19 


icnco 
Icric- 

y  the 
olm's. 
[)  pur- 
i  road 
route 
m  that 
rrituck 
failwa\' 
e  home 
ly  New 
tier  has 


rail  to  Princeton,  where  glides  will  be  found.  Lake 
Unibagog  is  reached  by  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway, 
which  is  left  at  Gorham. 

Before  turnhig  to  speak  in  more  extended  terms  of 
the  route  along  the  coast  through  Penobscot  Bay,  it 
will  be  useful  to  give  the  following  information. 

The  steamer  leaves  Railroad  wharf,  Portland,  every 
Tuesday  and  Friday  evening,  at  ten  o'clock,  on  the  ar- 
rival of  the  train  from  Boston,  and  proceeds  by  the  way 
of  Rockland  and  Mount  Desert  to  Machiasport.  Bar 
Harbor  Mount  Desert,  is  generally  reached  the  next 
day  about  noon,  and  Machiasport  late  in  the  afternoon. 
By  this  route,  the  trip  from  New  York  to  Mount  Des- 
ert occupies  about  twenty-seven  hours. 


OS  wide, 
)re  than 

lumber 
princi- 

portion 

eo,  600 
>und  the 

hunters 


rr 


PENOBSCOT     BAY, 

CHAPTER    III. 

Kennekec  —  MoNiiEGAN  ~  Camden  —  Oldtown  —  Pamola 
—  Castine  —  The  Capuchins  —  I  ',e  of  Haute  —  Pla« 
CBNTiA  —  Mount  Desert. 


-■ 

■*;%^ 

m 

t 

U 

^ 

SM 

wmmmmm 

^w' 

ENOBSCOT  Bay  lies  in  a  region  invested 
with  all  the  interest  that  is  attached  to 
other  portions  of  the  Maine  Coast.  In 
going  thither  from  the  Isles  of  Shoals, 
we  pass  outside  of  Casco  Bay,  which,  with  its  count- 
less islands  and  numerous  delightful  resorts,  might 
well  claim  a  chapter  of  its  'own.  But  making 
Portland  the  point  of  departure,  we  go  through  this 
bay,  and,  if  it  is  daylight,  become  somewhat  ac- 
quainted with  its  peculiarities.  After  clearing  'he 
bay  in  the  night,  the  first  light  that  appears  is 
Seguin.  This  stands  near  the  mouth  of  that  beau- 
tiful stream,  the  Kennebec.  When  on  the  coast  of 
Maine,  the  summer  tourist  should  ascend  this  river  to 
Augusta.  The  scenery  is  everywhere  fine.  Here  for 
the  first  time  we  saw  a  sturgeon,  as  described  by 
Longfellow,  in  all  his  armor : 

"  On  each  side  a  shield  to  guard  him, 
Plates  of  bone  upon  hi8  forehead, 
Down  bis  sidee,  back  and  shoulders, 


Penobscot  Bay. 


21 


[OLA 

Pla- 

• 

jsted 

id  to 

In 

loals, 
lount- 

QTlght 

aking 
this 
t   ac- 
'he 

TS     IS 


beau- 

1 

ast  of 

B 

ver  to 

Ih 

jre  for 

i|HH 

>ed  by 

V 

Plates  of  bono  with  spines  projecting  1 
Painted  was  he  with  his  v/ar  paint, 
Stripes  of  yellow,  red  and  azure, 
Spots  of  brown  and  spots  of  eablo." 

lliey  always  seem  very  fond  of  leaping  out  of  the 
W!Nter.  Standing  on  the  deck  of  the  upward-bound 
Bteamer,  we  heard  a  sudden  splash  in  the  water,  and 
Staurted,  thinking  that  a  man  had  fallen  overboard; 
but  it  proved  to  be  only  "the  sturgeon,  Nahma," 
who  from  the  bottom 

"  rose  with  angry  gesture, 
Quivering  iu  each  nerve  and  fibre. 
Clashing  all  his  plates  of  armor, 
Gleaming  bright  with  all  his  warpaint; 
In  his  wrath  ho  darted  upward. 
Flashing  leaped  into  the  sunshine." 

While  I  was  looking  at  the  place  where  he  disap- 
peared, Nahma's  brother,  about  the  size  of  a  man,  did 
precisely  the  same  thing,  leaping  full  out  of  the  water, 
and  then  falling  back  again  in  true  histrionic  style,  as 
if  stiff  and  dead. 

Next  on  our  right,  at  sea,  is  Monhegan.  This 
is  a  low  flat  island  of  considerable  size.  Beyond 
question  Captain  John  Smith  actually  landed  here, 
if  he  did  not  at  the  Isles  of  Shoals.  We  have  his 
own  word  for  it.  He  arrived  in  April,  1614.  The 
island  had  been  a  resort  of  fishermen  since  1608,  if 
not  longer.  Smith  says  that  "  whilst  the  sailors 
fished,  myself  with  eight  others  ranged  the  coast  in  a 
vmall  boat.    We  got  for  trifles  near  eleven  thoa«and 


IMMW 


22 


Penobscot  Bay, 


beaver  skins,  one  hundred  martens,  and  as  many 
otters."  lie  carried  back  to  England  forty-seven 
thousand  dried  fish  cured  at  the  island.  The  Arabic 
system  of  notation  would  utterly  fail  to  tell  ho>v  many 
thousand  cod  have  been  taken  here  since.  Tb )  set- 
tlement on  the  island  is  small,  but  the  place  is  of 
genuine  interest.  "We  passed  this  island  again  o\i  one 
of  the  loveliest  nights  that  I  ever  spent  on  the  yrater, 
when  the  full-orbed  moon  sent  down  upon  the  waves 
her  most  bewitching  glances.     For 

"  In  snob  a  night 
Stood  Dido  Tvith  a  willow  in  her  hand 
Upon  tho  wild  sea  banks  and  waft  her  love 
To  come  again  to  Carthago." 

If  the  runaway  JEneas  had  been  with  us  on  the 
Lewiston,  he  would  not  have  objected  seriously  to 
going  anywhere,  simply  on  account  of  the  weather. 

On  this  island  is  what  looks  like  a  Runic  inscription 
in  the  face  of  a  rock.  An  engraving  of  this  rock  is 
given  by  the  Society  of  Northern  Antiquarians  in 
one  of  their  publications  (Dei  Antiquaires  du  Nord, 
May  14y  1859),  but  the  Society  very  prudently  ab- 
stained from  giving  an  opinion.  The  Northmen  when 
on  the  coast  may  have  noticed  this  island,  yet  the 
alleged  inscription  is  probably  the  result  of  dis- 
integration. 

Opposite  Monhegan,  on  the  main,  is  Pemaquid,  the 
hnxne  of  Samoset,  who  welcomed  the  English  Pil- 
grims  at  Plymouth  in    1620.      Bradford  says  this 


Peftobscat  Bay, 


23 


Chief  came  *bouldIy  amongst  them,  and  spoke  to 
them  in  broken  English,  which  they  could  well  under- 
stand but  marvelled  at  it.  At  length  they  understood 
by  discourse  with  him,  that  he  was  not  one  of  these 
[Plymouth]  parts,  but  belonged  to  ye  eastrene  parts, 
wher  some  English  ships  came  ^to  fish,  with  whom  he 
was  acquainted,  and  coyld  name  sundrie  of  them  by 
their  names,  amongst  whom  he  gott  his  language.'* 
According  to  the  account  which  he  gave  of  himself, 
he  was  Sagamore  of  "  Morattiggon,"  lying  eastward 
**  ft  daye's  sail  with  a  great  wind,  and  five  days  by 
land."  He  visited  the  Pilgrims  again  two  days  after- 
wards, that  is,  Sunday,  March  18;  and  on  March 
22,  he  came  for  the  last  time  to  Plymouth  with 
the  Chief  Squanto,  by  whose  joint  agency  a  peace 
was  arranged  with  Massasoit. 

He  appears  only  once  more  on  the  page  of  New 
England  history,  in  1625,  when  he  deeded  away  a 
large  tract  of  land  near  Pemaquid.  Among  his  other 
good  acts  was  that  of  rescuing  some  shipwrecked 
Frenchmen  cast  away  on  Cape  Cod  in  1617.  Says 
one  writer,  "  The  life  of  the  Pemaquid  chief  Samo- 
set,  or  Somerset,  must  ever  awaken  the  most  tender 
and  interesting  reflections;  and  the  generosity  and 
genuine  nobility  of  soul,  displayed  by  this  son  of  the 
forest,  must  be  allowed  as  a  fairer  index  to  the  true 
character  of  the  Aborigines  than  their  deeds  of  resent- 
ment and  cruelty  in  after-day  when  goaded  to  mad- 
ness by  the  cupidity  or  trea        y  of  the  Europeans.** 


MHHIti 


24 


Penobscot  Bay. 


Between  Pemaquid  and  Monhegan  the  fight  of  the 
Enterprise  and  the  Boxer  took  place  in  1813,  the  lat- 
ter becoming  a  prize  to  the  United  States,  after  a 
severe  engagement  of  thirty-five  minutes,  in  which  the 
commanders  were  both  killed. 

Early  in  the  morning  the  steamer  reaches  Rock- 
land, where  the  Portland  steamer  connects  with  the 
boat  running  to  Bangor.  This  place  is  chiefly  cele- 
brated for  its  lime,  which  is  burnt  and  exported  in 
fabulous  quantities.  Our  Down-east  friends  find  the 
lime-rock  as  good  as  gold,  and  get  rich  in  the  trade 
almost  as  fast  as  their  Massachusetts  neighbors  do  in 
selling  off  their  ice.  From  this  point  we  catch  a 
glimpse  of  the  Camden  Hills,  a  few  miles  distant,  now 
a  popular  place  of  resort.  The  whole  region  around 
Camden  abounds  in  attractions  that  have  not  become 
hackneyed  like  most  of  the  resorts  in  Massachusetts. 
The  hills  as  we  passed  them  strikingly  reminded  us 
of  the  heights  of  Mount  Desert,  though  they  present 
little  of  their  wonderful  variety. 

The  coast  line  here  as  everywhere  is  extremely 
irregular.  Between  Portland  and  Machiasport  the 
steamer  changes  her  course  over  two  hundred  times. 
From  Kittery  Point  to  West  Quoddy  Head,  the  dis- 
tance in  a  right  line  is  only  about  two  hundred  and 
twenty-six  miles,  while  it  is  said  that  an  actual  survey 
will  make  the  shore  three  thousand.  i** 

So  little  was  known  of  the  coast  in  1607,  that 
Popham  wrote  to  Prince  Charles^  telling  him  that  nut* 


HI 


Penobscot  Bay. 


25 


megs  and  cinnamon  grew  here.     He  also  said  that 
seven  days'  journey  westward  from  Sagadahoc,  there 
was  a  large  sea  reaching  to   China,  which  "unques-. 
tionably "  was  not  far  from  these  shores. 

A  short  distance  above  Bangor  is  the  settlement  of 
the  Old  Town  Indians.     The  present  number  of  the 
tribe  is  five  hundred   and   twenty-five.     The  school 
numbers  fifty-four  scholars.     They  receive  from  the 
Government  nearly  six  thousand    dollars    annually. 
Their  number  has  not  diminished  for  the  last  forty 
years.     They  are  frequently  seen  in  the  vicinity  of 
Mount  Desert.     They  have  a  "  New  Party,"  and  an 
"  Old  Party,"  as  is  the  case  at  Pleasant  Point,  though 
with  the  Old  Town  Indians  the  New  Party  is  the 
less   respectable.      They    have    had    bitter   quarrels 
among  themselves  from  time  to  time,  and  once,  for  a 
period  of  two  years,  they  were  left  by  the  Boman 
Catholic  authorities,  to  whose  church  they  adhere,  as 
perfectly   incorrigible.      They  have    among   them  a 
Phenician  custom  which  prevails  in  Ireland,  of  build- 
ing huge  bonfires  on  Midsummer  Eve,  the  Vigil  of  S. 
John   Baptist.     They  are  exceedingly  superstitious, 
and  have  some  famous  traditions  regarding   Mount 
Katahdin,  the  residence  of  the  Spirit  Pamola.     One 
of  them,  according  to  Father  Vetromile,  who  served 
as  Priest  of  Old  Town,  runs  as  follows : 

Several  hundred  years  ago,  while  a  Penobscot  In 
dian  was  encamped  east  of  Katahdin,  in  the  autumn 
Uuntm^'  season,  an  unexpected  fall  of  snow  covered 


26 


Penobscot  Bay. 


f  i; 


the  whole  country  to  the  depth  of  many  feet.  Not 
having  any  enow-shoes,  he  was  unable  to  return  home, 
and  remained  blocked  up  in  the  drifts,  feeling  that  he 
must  eventually  perish.  But  in  his  despair  he  called 
with  a  loud  voice  for  Pamola,  who  finally  made  his 
appearance  on  the  top  of  the  mountain.  Thereupon 
the  Indian  took  courage,  and  offered  a  sacrifice  of  oil 
and  fat,  which  he  poured  upon  some  burning  coals. 
As  the  smoke  went  up,  Pamola  descended  from  the 
summit  of  the  mountain,  when  the  sacrifice  was  re- 
peated, drawing  Pamola  as  far  as  the  camp,  where  the 
Indian  welcomed  him,  saying,  "  You  are  welcome, 
Partner."  Pamola  replied  :  "  You  have  done  well  to 
call  me  partner,  for  thus  you  are  saved,  who  otherwise 
would  have  beer  destroyed  by  me.  Now  I  will  take 
you  on  the  mountain,  and  you  shall  be  happy  with 
me."  He  therefore  put  the  Indian  on  his  shoulders, 
bade  him  close  his  eyes,  and  in  a  few  minutes,  with  a 
noise  as  of  a  whistling  wind,  they  were  inside  of  the 
mountain.  The  Indian  described  the  interior  of  Ka- 
tahdin  as  containing  a  comfortable  wigwam,  furnished 
with  an  abundance  of  venison,  and  all  the  luxuries  of 
life,  and  that  Pamola  had  a  wife  and  children  living 
there.  Pamola  gave  him  his  daughter  to  wife,  and 
told  him  that  after  one  year  he  could  return  to  his 
friends  at  the  Penobscot,  and  have  the  privilege  of 
coming  to  see  his  wife  as  often  as  he  pleased.  He 
was  told,  however,  that  he  must  not  marry  another 
wife,  and  that  if  he  did  he  would  immediately  be 


Pettobscot  Bay, 


27 


transported  to  Katahdin,  from  whence  he  would  never 
return  again.  At  the  end  of  the  year  he  went  back 
to  Old  Town  and  told  all  his  adventures.  The 
Indians  urged  him  to  marry  again,  which  at  first  he 
refused  to  do ;  though  at  last  they  carried  their  point. 
But  Jt^amola  was  true  to  his  word,  for  the  day  after  he 
suddenly  disappeared,  and  he  must,  of  course,  have 
been  spirited  back  to  the  heart  of  the  Mountain.  It 
is  to  be  hoped  that  his  fate  will  have  a  wholesome 
effect  upon  those  who  remain.  I  was  shown  by  Dr. 
Ballard,  the  Secretary  of  the  Maine  Historical  Society, 
a  rude  sketch  of  Pamola,  that  was  made  for  him  by  an 
Indian.  The  sketch  reminded  me  of  Falstaff's  de- 
scription of  Slender,  who  "  was  for  all  the  world  like 
a  forked  radish,  with  ^  head  fantastically  carved  on  it 
with  a  knife." 

We  did  not  on  this  occasion  ascend  the  Penobscot, 
which,  however,  well  repays  the  journey,  as  the 
steamer  sailed  from  Rockland  direct  to  Castine.  This 
is  another  extremely  interesting  place.  As  we  ap- 
proached the  landing,  the  old  earthworks  upon  the 
summit  of  the  hill  to  the  rear  of  the  town  came 
prominently  into  view,  their  outline  being  relieved  by 
the  sky.  Castine  has  a  pleasant,  cleanly  appearance, 
and  the  whole  neighborhood  looks  inviting.  Near 
the  Point  is  shown  the  site  of  Baron  Castin's  fort. 

Among  the  names  associated  with  the  early  days  of 
the  Penobscot  that  of  Vincent  de  St.  Castin  is  the 
most  distinguished.    At  one  tiiae  he  was  an  officer  in 


mm 


28 


Penobscot  Bay. 


w 

I    i 


the  body  guard  of  the  King  of  France.  Born  near 
the  Pyrenees  and  accustomed  to  their  wild  and  rug- 
ged scenery,  the  primeval  forests  of  Acadie  accorded 
well  with  his  eccentric  disposition.  Soon  after  arriv- 
ing at  Quebec,  in  1CG5,  the  regiment  of  which  he  was 
commander  having  been  disbanded,  he  selected  the 
pine-clad  peninsula  of  Biguatus  as  his  place  of  resi- 
dence. On  the  same  spot  which  had  previously  been 
occupied  by  D'Aulney  and  Temple,  he  erected  a  forti- 
fied habitation,  and  for  over  a  quarter  of  a  century 
carried  on  an  extensive  and  profitable  trade.  La 
Hontan  estimated  his  profits  to  have  been  two  or 
three  hundred  thousand  crowns,  and  Castin  himself 
informed  M.  Tibierge,  in  1G95,  that  eighty  thousand 
livres  could  be  annuUy  realized  at  Penobscot  out  of 
the  beaver  trade.  In  1G73,  twenty -one  white  per- 
sons, including  soldiers,  were  connected  with  Castings 
establishment.  He  formed  a  close  alliance  with  the 
savages  by  marrying  the  daughter  of  Madackawando, 
their  chief,  and  his  influence  over  them  was  so  great, 
that  they  regarded  him  as  their  tutelar  god.  Within 
his  habitation  was  a  chapel  attended  by  a  Roman 
priest.  He  was  an  avowed  enemy  of  the  English. 
King  William's  War  has  sometimes  been  called  Castin's 
War.  In  1688  Sir  Edmund  Andros  anchored  off  his 
fort  in  the  frigate  Rose,  when  the  Baron  fled  to  the 
woods.  Andros  landed  and  pillaged  the  place,  not 
even  respecting  the  chapel  altar.  Then  followed 
nine  years  of  war  and  bloodshed.    Castin  afterwards 


Penobscot  Bay, 


29 


rebuilt  his  fort,  but  while  absent  in  France  in  1703,  it 
was  again  pillaged.  The  next  year  Colonel  Church 
carried  fire  and  the  sword  throughout  the  region. 
Castin  died  in  France,  but  his  son  by  his  Indian  wife 
continued  to  live  in  the  country. 

The  visitor  at  modern  Castine  may  also  feel  inter- 
ested in  learning  that  at  one  period  the  Capuchins 
had  established  a  monastery  here.  This  Order  is  a 
branch  of  the  Friars  Minor,  founded  by  St.  Francis 
of  Assissi.  A  member  of  this  branch  of  the  Older, 
having  made  the  remarkable  discovery  that  the  breth- 
ren did  not  wear  the  same  style  of  capuce,  or  hood, 
that  their  founder  wore,  succeeded,  in  conjunction 
with  another  devotee,  in  obtaining  (July  13,  1528)  a 
Papal  Bull  for  the  establishment  of  the  Capuchins  as 
a  distinct  society.  Mr.  Shea  says  that  they  first 
appeared  in  the  French  colony  in  1632,  when  they 
were  offered  the  direction  of  religious  affairs,  which 
offer  was  declined.  In  1643  D'Aulney  invited  them 
to  come  to  Acadia.  In  1646  Father  Druillettes,  a 
Jesuit  from  Quebec,  going  on  a  visit  to  the  Abenakis, 
found  at  Pentegoet  a  little  hospice  of  Capuchins, 
under  their  Superior,  Father  Ignatius  of  Paris.  This 
hospice,  according  to  Charlevoix,  was  on  the  Kenne- 
bec at  Castine,  where  *^  '>y  acted  as  Chaplains  to  the 
French  traders  and  seiUers.  It  is  thought  that  the 
visit  of  Father  Druillettes  led  to  the  erection  of 
a  new  and  more  permanent  hospice.  At  all  events 
one  was  erected  in  1648,  which  is  demonstrated  by  an 


30 


Penobscot  Bay. 


inscription  on  a  plate  of  copper,  found  in  the  autumn 
of  1863,  near  the  old  brick  battery,  known  as  the 
Lower  Fort.     The.  inscription  is  as  follows : 
"1648.    8.   IVN.  F.  Leo.  Parisin.  Capuc.  Miss 

POSVI     Hoc     FVNDTM     In     HNR     EM     NRiE      DM-<E 
SANCTiE    SpEI." 

This  may  be  rendered  as  follows  : 

"1648.  Jan.  8.  I,  Friar  Leo,  of  Paris,  Ca- 
puchin Missionary,  laid  this  foundation  in 
HONOR  of  our  Lady  op  Holy  Hope." 

Li  1649,  D'Aulney,  the  patron  of  the  Capuchins, 
was  overpowered  by  La  Tour,  whom  Mr.  Shea  de- 
scribes as  a  "  hickory  member"  of  the  Roman  Cath- 
olic Church,  and  his  settlements  were  disbanded. 
The  Capuchins  in  Maine  left  no  records. 

Of  the  character  of  these  men  we  cannot  speak 
with  the  same  definiteness  as  of  the  Jesuits.  The 
monks  of  old  differed  greatly  in  their  characters  and 
reputation.  There  were  the  monks  of  St.  Gildas  de 
Rhuys.  Longfellow  thus  makes  Lucifer  hit  them  off 
in  "  The  Golden  Legend  " : 


"  The  convent  windows  glenmed  nil  red 
As  the  fiery  eyes  of  the  monks  within, 
Who  .vith  Jovial  din 
Gave  themselves  up  to  all  kinds  of  sin ! 
Ha !  that  is  a  convent !  4bat  is  an  abbey ! 
Over  the  doors, 

None  of  your  death-heads  carved  in  wood, 
None  of  your  Saints  looking  pious  and  good, 
None  of  your  Patriarchs  old  and  bhabbyf 
But  the  heads  and  tusks  of  boors. 
And  the  cells 


Penobscot  Bay, 


51 


Hung  all  round  with  the  foils 

Of  tho  fallow  deer. 

And  theu  whnt  cheer ! 

Whatjolly  fat  ffiars, 

Sitting  round  the  great,  roaring  fires." 

But  if  the  monks  of  Maine  belonged  to  this  class, 
they  showed  little  sense  in  leaving  the  endowed  mo- 
nastery of  the  Old  World  for  tho  log-built  hospice 
of  the  New,  where,  instead  of  securing  the  deer's  fell, 
they  might  lose  their  own  scalps.  They  led  a  hard 
and  often  a  sad  life.  Instead  of  the  constant  carnival 
of  de  Rhuys  it  was  a  prolonged  Lenten  fast.  Theirs 
was  the  coarse  fare,  the  scanty  board,  the  wearing 
vigil,  the  painful  march,  and,  at  night,  the  bed  of 
boughs.  Such  men  have  a  right  to  stickle  about  the 
cut  of  a  capuce.  Indeed,  they  have  seldom  had  jus- 
tice. Still  they  were  generally  men  of  right  aims  and 
a  self-denying  spirit,  ready  to  compass  sea  and  land  to 
make  a  proselyte,  and  buying  at  any  price  the  privi- 
lege of  sending  an  Indian  child  to  heaven  with  a  drop 
of  dew. 

From  Castine  we  descend  the  bay  around  Cape 
Rosier  to  the  pleasant  little  town  of  Sedgwick  where 
passengers  are  landed.  Thence  the  steamer's  course 
is  shaped  for  Deer  Isle,  which  is  about  half  as  large 
as  Mount  Desert  and  supports  a  thicky  settled  fishing 
community.  The  isle  appears  to  be  a  bright  sunny 
place,  and  a  summer  spent  here  would  no  doubt  be 
profitable,  as  the  steamer  regularly  places  travellers 
on  one  of  the  most  central  portions  of  the  bay. 


■W"'^ 


33 


Penobscot  Bay. 


li  I 


"We  next  go  through  Egemoggin  Reach  which  ex- 
tends between  Deer  Isle  and  the  mainland,  after 
which  the  Isle  au  Haute,  High  Island,  as  Cham- 
plain  called  it.  That  explorer  was  evidently  well 
acquainted  with  this  locality.  He  says  :  "  Coming  to 
the  south  of  the  High  (haute)  island,  and  coasting  it 
at  about  one-fourth  of  a  league  where  there  are  sev- 
eral sand-bars  just  out  of  water,  we  turned  to  the 
west  till  we  opened  the  mountains  which  are  to  the 
north  of  said  island.  You  can  be  assured  that  in 
seeing  the  eight  or  nine  notches  in  the  Isle  of  Mount 
Desert  and  of  Bedabebec,  you  will  not  see  any 
more  islands."  It  was  on  the  Isle  of  Haute  that  the 
United  States  Sloop-of-War,  John  Adams,  mounting 
twenty-four  guns,  got  ashore  August  17,  1814,  having 
on  board  sixty  English  prisoners.  She  was  eventu- 
ally brought  oflf  and  taken  up  the  Penobscot,  where 
to  prevent  her  capture  by  the  British,  she  was  set 
on  fire. 

Close  at  hand  may  also  be  seen  Placentia,  an  island 
that  Whittier  celebrates  in  his  poem  of  Mogg  Megone. 
He  tells  us  of  one  Pere  Breteaux  who  had  a  mission 
i;here,  dwelling  alone  in  a  hut.     He  says : 

"  There  sleep  Placentia's  group— and  there 
Pore  Breteaux  marks  the  hour  of  prayer; 
And  there,  beneath  the  eeu-worn  cliff, 

On  which  the  Father's  Hut  is  seen 
The  Indian  stays  his  rocking  skiff. 

And  peers  the  hemlock  bough  between, 
Half  trembling  as  he  seeks  to  look 
Upon  the  Jesuits  Cross  and  Book." 


Penobscot  Bay, 


33 


This,  however,  is  nothing  but  a  pretty  fiction.  No 
mission  ever  existed  here,  and  no  Jesuit  of  the  namo 
ever  labored  on  the  Maine  Coast.  It  is,  nevertheless, 
a  pleasant  spot. 

Speaking  of  Mount  Desert,  Champlain  says  that  it 
is  close  to  the  main  land,  "  and  very  high  and  notched, 
appearing  from  the  sea  like  what  seems  to  be  seven 
or  eight  mountains  on  a  line  near  each  other,"  which 
has  already  been  shown  to  be  the  case.  The  summits 
appeared  then  as  they  do  now,  for  he  says,  "  the  tops 
of  the  most  of  them  are  without  trees,  because  all  is 
rocks."  What  woods  there  were  he  says  were  "  all 
pines  and  hoilleaiis."  He  adds,  "  I  named  it  the 
Island  of  the  Desert  Mountain,"  {iles  Monts  desert.) 
The  latitude  of  the  highest  eminence.  Green  Moun- 
tain, he  fixed  at  forty-four  and  a  half,  which  agrees 
sufficiently  well  with  the  modern  survey. 

Then  we  left  Penobscot  Bay  and  sailed  around 
Mount  Desert  to  South- West  Harbor,  where  Colonel 
Church,  during  the  French  and  Indian  war,  some- 
times came  in  search  of  the  enemy,  who  made  the 
isle  a  rendezvous.  It  was  here  in  a  cask  that  the 
Massachusetts  men  established  a  novel  post-office. 
Arriving  here  Church  says  that  he  found  none  of  his 
vessels  that  he  expected,  but  instead  "  a  rundlet  rid 
off  by  a  line  in  the  harbor  which  he  ordered  to  be 
tiiken  up."  On  opening  it  he  found  a  letter  addressed 
to  him,  from  which  he  learned  that  *he  friends  had 
returned  to  Boston.     But  on  our  arrival  (1868)  we 


34 


Penobscot  Bay. 


received  the  mail  in  a  red  leather  bag,  marked  U.  S., 
from  Deacon  Clark.  From  thence  we  steamed  around 
to  Bar  Harbor,  intending  to  resume  journey  to  Grand 
Menan  at  the  next  trip. 

The  Island  of  Mount  Desert  is  about  fourteen  miles 
long  and  seven  wide,  in  shape  something  like  a  horse- 
shoe. The  island  is  nearly  cut  in  two  by  a  body  of 
water  called  Soames'  Sound.  On  each  side  of  the  en- 
trance to  this  sound  is  a  harbor,  one  called  Xortheast 
and  the  other  Southwest  Harbor.  Bar  Harbor,  the 
principal  resort,  is  on  the  north  side.  The  mountains 
are  the  distinguishing  feature.  Tliere  are  thirteen 
distinct  ranges.  On  tlie  east  of  each  range  is  a  lake, 
except  in  the  case  of  that  mountain  overlooking 
Soames'  Sound.  The  highest  is  Green  Mountain,  1535 
feet  above  the  sea.  Whoever  wishes  to  know  anything 
of  Mount  Desert  should  secure  the  book  entitled 
"RamblcNin  Mount  Desert, "  published  by  Randolph 
&  Co. ,  Kew  York. 


G  RA  ND     ME  NAN. 

CHAP  T  E  R      IV.- 

Route  to  Maciiias  — The  Fight  —  Lubec  — Early  His- 
tory —  Explorations  —  Gulls  —  Swallow-Tail  Head- 
Whale  Cove  —  Indian  Beach  —  Dark  Harbor  r—  The 
Return. 

EAVING  Bar  Harbor  at  noon  on  a  beau- 
tiful August  clay,  we  started  for  the  north- 
ern head  of  Grand  Menan,  situated  in  a 
direct  line  about  eighty-five  miles  from 
Mount  Desert.  In  steaming  out  we  had  a  fine  view 
of  the  cliffs  of  Iron-bound  Island,  and  Schoodic  Hill. 
The  latter,  as  we  progressed,  turned  itself  around 
to  afford  a  full  view  of  its  bare  and  bleached  sides. 
Gradually,  Newport  and  Green  Mountain  faded  into 
one,  and  then  sank  out  of  sight. 

The  next  noticeable  feature  was  Petit  Menan,  so 
called  to  distinguish  it  from  Great,  or  Grand  Menan. 
It  is  a  low,  barren  island,  with  a  granite  lighthouse 
one  hundred  and  twenty-five  feet  high,  showing  a 
Hash  light.  A  wreck  lay  in  the  surf  on  the  beach. 
This  place*  is  about  fifteen  miles  from  Bar  Harbor. 
The  next  lighthouse  is  on  Pond  Island,  to  the  right 
of  which  is  the  island  called  Jordan's  Delight,  having 
handsome  cliffs.     Near  a  shingle  beach  was  an  arch- 


% 


."nflWV»»lll|!JI«WH»  H   ■■J.IIIPI^MIU 


mmvpmf^r 


36 


Grand  Menan. 


way  in  the  rocks.     The  pilot  said  that  the  place  was 
full  of  attractions. 

At  Millbridge,  it  being  low  water,  the  passengers 
were  taken  off  by  a  boat.  Ship's-Stern  Island  was 
next  pointed  out.  It  resembles,  at  one  end,  the  steri 
of  an  old-fashioned  ship.  .  Pigeon  Hill  now  disap- 
peared in  the  distance,  and  the  steamer  ran  on  among 
clusters  of  low,  rocky  islands,  more  or  less  covered 
with  pines,  and  passed  through  Plummer's  Sound, 
which  forms  a  fine  harbor  about  six  miles  long.  It  is 
shut  in  by  a  range  of  islands  that  are  famous  for  ship- 
wrecks. 

Next  Jonesport,  about  thirty  miles  from  Bar  Har- 
bor, comes  in  view,  with  the  waters  of  Moose- A-Beck 
Reach ;  Mark  Island  lying  out  at  the  entrance.  Jones- 
port  is  pleasantly  situated.  A  few  houses  are  scat- 
tered near  the  shore,  and  further  on  is  a  small  village. 
It  was  from  this  place  that  the  colonist  went  forth  to 
settle  at  Joppa.  It  does  not  look  like  a  place  capable 
of  producing  romantic  visionaries  like  those  who 
undertook  to  revolutionize  Palestine.  Opposite  lie 
numerous  small  islands  with  a  few  poor  cottages. 
Jonesport  is  noted  for  its  fine  trout  fishing.  It  has  a 
new  hotel,  and  will  erelong  become  a  popular  resort. 
Next  the*  mouth  of  Englishman's  Bay  is  passed,  with 
Shorey's  Island.  In  the  distance,  at  sea,  Pulpit  or 
S])lit  Rock  appears,  a  little  to  the  right  of  which  is  the 
saddle-shaped  island  known  as  the  Brothers.*  Next  is 
Green  Island,  curiously  formed,  and  surmounted  by 


Grand  Menan. 


37 


conical-shaped  hills.  A  large  flock  of  gulls  was 
resting  on  the  nearest.  Other  islands  constantly 
rise  up  as  we  pass.  Among  them  is  Libbcy's  Island 
with  its  lighthouse,  Pettigrew's,  Cross  Island  with  its 
deer  and  cave  containing  buried  gold  which  unfor- 
tunately no  one  can  find,  and  Stone's  and  Brown's 
Island.  On  Stone's  was  a  fish-hawks'  nest  in  the  top 
of  a  dead  tree.  Passing  these,  Yellow  Head  is  next 
seen  standing  at  the  west  entrance  of  Machias  Bay, 
with  Chauncey's  Island  on  the  east.  Buck's  Harbor 
is  a  snug  little  place  near  Yellow  Head.  Numerous 
other  islands  are  sprinkled  about,  adding  to  the  beauty 
of  the  bay. 

Here  again  we  were  on  historic  ground,  and  were 
reminded  of  the  celebrated  fight  off  Machias.  One 
of  the  natives,  who  knew  every  inch  of  land  and  water 
in  this  vicinity,  but  unfortunately  was  not  posted  in 
history,  undertook  to  tell  me  how  it  was. 

"  You  see,'*  said  he,  "  when  they  found  out  what 
the  British  were  about,  they  just  filled  the  hold  of  the 
sloop  with  men  armed  with  pitchforks  and  pikes,  cov- 
ered the  deck  with  sheep,  and  then  sailed  down  the 
harbor.  When  they  got  alongside  the  British  they 
asked  them  if  they  wanted  to  trade,  and  when  they 
said  they  did,  the  men  rushed  up  out  of  the  hold  and 
took  the  British  in  a  minute."  This  was  making  tol- 
erably short  work  of  it. 

From  Machias,  which  bears  numerous  scars  of  war, 
we  proceeded  twenty-six  miles  overland  to  Lubec  by 


38 


Grand  Menan. 


I 


I 


stage.  This  is  the  nearest  point  of  departure  fof 
Grand  Menan.  The  road  thither  is  pleasant,  and,  on 
approaching  the  end,  the  ishmd  lying  out  against 
the  horizon  presented  a  loisg,  level,  purple  wall.  Of 
Lubec  not  ranch  can  be  said.  There  are  some  mines 
of  silver  and  lead  near,  and  it  is  not  without  attrac- 
tions as  a  fishing  village  ;  yet,  on  the  whole,  we  con- 
cluded that  it  was  a  good  place  to  get  away  from. 
This,  however,  is  not  such  an  easy  matter,  if  one's 
course  lies  towards  the  sea.  The  steamer  which  runs 
from  Boston  to  Eastport  will  connect  the  tourist  with 
the  packet  sailing  weekly  from  the  latter  place  to 
Grand  Menan,  usually  leaving  on  Saturday  and  re- 
turning to  Eastport  the  following  "Wednesday.  But 
of  the  packet  we  could  learn  nothing.  They  did  not 
know  whether  she  had  dropped  down  from  Eastport 
(three  miles  above)  or  not.  In  fact,  while  it  Avas 
utterly  impossible  for  a  tom-cod  to  pass  the  docks 
night  or  day  without  being  seen  and  caught,  the  good 
people  knew  no  more  of  the  packet  than  some  of  the 
revenue  officers  here  know  (perhaps)  about  smug- 
gling. The  sum  of  the  whole  matter  was,  that,  if  I 
wished  to  go  to  Menan,  I  had  better  hire  a  boat.  I 
thought  so  too,  on  the  whole,  as  the  weather  was  fine 
and  the  breeze  fresh  and  fair.  The  fishermen  with 
whom  I  spoke  seemed  to  think  this  a  happy  decision  ; 
and  now  who  should  have  the  job  ?  I  finally  bar- 
gained with  a  good  honest  fellow  for  a  five-ton  her- 
ring boat  and  a  crew  of  two  men.     We  (that  is,  Ama- 


Grand  Menan. 


39 


rinta  and  I)  then  hurried  on  board  with  our  baggage. 
The  skipper  brouglit  down  a  compass,  some  hard 
bread,  and  a  jug  of  water,  and  at  once  we  were 
sweeping  down  the  harbor  past  Campo  Bello,  favored 
by  wind  and  tide. 

Being  now  fairly  on  the  way,  there  was  an  oppor- 
tunity to  count  up  the  difficulties  of  the  voyage.  The 
distance  from  West  Quoddy  Head  to  Menan  is  only 
about  nine  miles,  yet  sometimes  it  takes  a  week  to 
get  across.  Fogs,  calms,  tides  and  adverse  gales 
combine  to  stop  the  passage  of  a  sailing  vessel. 
Pin'.or,  who  with  his  brother  artist  preceded  us,  said 
that  they  had  a  hard  time  of  it.  Losing  the  packet, 
they  chartered  a  fishing  boat  at  Eastport,  but  got  no 
farther  than  the  east  side  of  Campo  Bello,  when  the 
fog  forced  them  to  take  shelter  in  a  fisherman's  hut 
in  a  cove,  for  two  days  and  nights.  Finally  a  fishing 
vessel  bound  to  Menan  came  into  the  cove,  and,  the 
weather  opportunely  clearing,  they  engaged  passage 
and  embarked.  After  beating  about  the  Bay  of 
Fundy  all  night,  they  were  landed  on  the  east  side  of 
Menan  in  the  morning. 

For  ourselves  we  happily  escaped  all  this,  and  so 
may  others,  if  they  carefully  lay  their  plans.  Instead 
of  being  two  days,  "e  made  the  trip  in  little  more 
than  two  hours,  as  our  little  craft,  under  a  heavy  load 
of  canvas,  swept  over  the  wave,  like  a  gull  on  the 
wing. 

As  we  advanced,  Menan  gradually  rose  above  the 


pr 


40 


Grand  Menan. 


I 


I 


waves  and  changed  its  aspect,  the  flat-topped  purple 
wall  being  transmuted  into  brown,  rugged,  perpen- 
dicular cliffs,  crowned  with  dark  green  foliage.  Pass- 
ing as  we  did  close  in  by  the  extreme  northern  point, 
we  were  impressed  by  its  beauty  and  grandeur,  which 
far  exceeds  even  that  of  the  cliffs  at  Mount  Desert. 
Then  came  the  Bishop's  Head,  presenting  the  rude 
outline  of  what  appears  like  a  tonsured  monk  sitting 
in  a  chair.  It  is  not  so  definite  in  its  outline  as  the 
Friar's  Head  at  Campo  Bello,  yet,  taken  altogether,  it 
surpasses  it  by  far.  A  little  further  on  is  Eel  Brook 
Cove,  with  its  fine  rocky  cliffs.  At  this  place  the 
ship  Lord  Ashburton  was  wrecked.  Several  of  the 
crew  were  saved,  yet  the  marvel  is  how  they  got  up 
the  steep  rocks.  In  the  graveyard  near  Flagg's  Cove, 
the  bodies  of  twenty-one  of  the  unfortunates  lie  side 
by  side. 

In  a  few  minutes  we  dashed  gaily  into  Whale 
Cove,  a  broad  bay  in  the  form  of  a  horse-shoe,  indent- 
ing the  northern  end  of  the  island.  Here  the  view 
is  surprisingly  fine,  the  entire  shore  being  cii'cled  by 
immense  cliffs  that  rise  up  around  the  border  of  the 
blue  waves,  with  a  richness  of  color  and  stateliness  of 
aspect  that  cannot  fail  to  impress  the  beholder. 

But  we  had  no  time  now  to  stay  and  study  the 
cliffs  in  detail,  as  our  destination  was  Flagsf's  Cove, 
and  wp  were  in  doubt  about  its  precise  locality.  Wa 
accordingly  ran  down  to  a  fishing  boat,  and,  on 
inquiry,  learned  that  the  cove  in  question  made  in 


Grand  Menan. 


41 


on  the  eastern  side  of  the  island,  extending  to  within 
a  quarter  of  a  mile  of  Whale  Cove.  Our  skipper  had 
contracted  to  carry  us  to  the  former  place,  but  as  the 
night  was  coming  on,  and  he  was  anxious  to  get  the 
breeze  home  again,  we  released  him  from  the  bargain 
and  were  put  ashore.  On  the  whole  it  was  best, 
and  persons  coming  as  we  did,  will  generally  do  well 
to  land  here  ;  that  is,  of  course,  if  the  surf  should  not 
prove  high.  The  northerly  gales,  it  will  be  remem- 
bered, drive  directly  upon  the  land. 

Our  craft  was  brought  to  close  by  the  shore,  and 
we  reached  the  beach  in  a  dory.  Some  fishermen 
were  dressing  hake  near  their  boat-houses,  and  two  or 
three  small  boys  were  at  play.  Our  arrival  attracted 
the  latter,  who  at  once  came  down  to  us.  As  I 
jumped  upon  the  soil  of  the  Dominion,  I  addressed 
one  of  the  brightest  of  them,  saying  that  I  supposed 
he  was  one  of  Victoria's  boys.  To  this  he  snarled  a 
most  emphatic  "  No."  I  told  him  that  he  need  not 
feel  ashamed  of  so  sweet  a  lady  and  *so  good  a  Queen ; 
yet  for  all  that  he  said  nay.  It  was  the  blood  of 
Cape  Cod  and  Cape  Ann  that  colored  his  freckled 
face ;  the  same  that  coursed  in  e  veins  of  the  old 
privateersmen.  What  saith  the  poet?  Ccclum  non 
animum  mutant,  qui  trans  mare  currunt ,  which 
means  that  the  Marbleheader  may  change  skies  and 
fishing  grounds,  but  not  his  inveterate  Yankee 
notions.  Still  we  are  supposed  here  to  be  under  the 
protection  of  Her  Majesty's  Flag,  and  so,  God  save 


42 


Grand  Menan. 


'  I 


the  Queen.  To  which  Amarinta,  stepping  ashore, 
says,  Amen,  preferring  the  reign  of  Victoria  much 
before  that  of  Neptune. 

Next  we  arranged  with  the  fishermen  to  carry  our 
baggage  across  to  Flagg's  Cove,  as  soon  as  they  had 
pickled  their  last  hake,  then  bade  our  trusty  skipper 
good-by,  and  started  on  ahead  through  a  lane,  passing 
a  couplo  of  fishermen's  cottages,  the  graves  of  the 
Ashbur ton's  crew,  the  school-house  with  a  belfry  and 
rat-tail  spire,  and  the  bulging  sides  of  the  new  town 
hall,  to  which  the  scarcity  of  the  public  funds  cruelly 
denies  a  roof.  In  due  time  I  found  the  house  to 
which  I  had  been  recommended  by  an  artist  of  New 
.York,  wliD  had  spent  three  summers  here,  and  which 
others  may  also  readily  find  without  any  public  men- 
tion of  names.  Leaving  wav^e-tossed  Amarinta  to 
recover  from  the  hinging  of  the  great  herring-boat,  let 
us  take  a  glance  at  the  earlier  days  of  Grand  Menan. 

Menan  is  an  Indian  word  signifying  an  island. 
The  Passamaquoddy  Indians,  in  response  to  my 
inquiries  when  at  their  village,  gave  me  several 
words  of  a  similar,  sound,  which  all  have  the  same 
signification.  The  island  first  appears  in  the  voyage 
of  Champlain  in  1605.  lie  speaks  of  it  as  the  island 
called  by  the  savages  Manthane,  He  is  careless  in  the 
spelling  of  this  and  many  other  proper  names.  In 
another  instance  he  calls  it  Manasne.  lie  anchored 
once  neai'  its  sonthern  head.  Down  to  the  period  of 
the  Revolution,  it  appears  to  have  been  inhabited  only 


Grand  Menan, 


43 


Ln 
id 
)f 


by  the  Indians.  A  farmer  near  Eel  Brook  gave  me 
a  stone  cliisel  that  belonged  to  the  aborigines.  It 
was  ploughed  up* in  a  field.  During  the  llevolutioir 
the  Indians  who  resorted  hither  were  allied  to  the 
American  cause.  Colonel  John  Allan,  who  in  1777 
conducted  operations  in  Eastern  Maine,  appears  to 
have  had  more  or  less  connection  with  them.  He 
speaks  in  his  journal  of  sending  off  Indians  to  this 
place,  and  also  of  issuing  orders  for  their  return.  In 
December,  he  sent  Ensign  Smith  to  Grand  Menan, 
but  it  was  the  old  story,  "not  being  able  from 
bad  weather  to  proceed."  If  any  white  men  settled 
here  prior  to  the  declaration  of  peace,  there  is  no 
record  of  the  fact  accessible. 

According  to  the  best  authority  to  be  had  just  now, 
one  of  the  earliest  settlers  on  the  island  was  Moses 
Gerrish,  of  Massachusetts,  who  adhered  to  the  King 
when  the  Revolution  broke  out,  and  was  attached  to 
the  commissary  department  of  the  royal  army.  After 
the  peace,  in  connection  with  Thomas  lloss  and  John 
Joues,  he  obtained  license  of  occupation  of  this  island, 
together  with  New  l^runswick  and  its  dependencies  ; 
and,  on  condition  of  obtaining  forty  settlers,  a  school- 
master and  clergyman,  within  seven  years  of  the  date 
of  the  license,  they  were  to  have  a  grant  of  the  whole 
from  the  Crown.  They  sold  lots  in  anticipation  of 
the  title,  but  in  the  end  failed  to  get  the  grant.  Jones 
returned  to  the  United  States,  and  Gerrish  and  Ross, 
remained.     Gerrish,  according  to  Sabine,  who  gives 


i.—«^  i^m'ir"Tvff^r^fmi^^ 


44 


Grand  Me f tan. 


' 


these  facts,  possessed  some  ability.  lie  was  described 
by  one  individual  as  a  man  who  "  wouhl  spread  more 
good  sense  on  a  sheet  of  paper"  than  any  person  of 
his  acquaintance.  Still  he  was  not  very  persistent, 
and  never  amassed  any  property.  He  was  always 
going  to  do  something.  He  was  a  magistrate  at 
Menan  at  the  time  of  his  death,  which  took  place  in 
1830,  in  the  eightieth  year  of  his  age. 

The  first  habitations  were  very  rude,  but  the  people 
have  continued  to  improve  the  character  of  their 
dwellings,  until  they  compare  very  favorably  with 
structures  of  a  corresponding  character  on  the  coast 
of  Maine. 

The  island  itself  is  about  twenty-two  miles  long  and 
from  three  to  six  miles  wide.  It  lies  in  the  mouth  of 
the  Bay  of  Fundy,  anciently  called  Frenchman's  Bay. 
The  furious  tide  for  which  this  bay  is  distinguished, 
sweeps  by  the  shores  with  great  force,  rising  eighteen 
feet  on  the  west  side  and  seventeen  on  the  east. 

The  highest  part  of  the  island  is  at  its  northern 
end,  where  the  cliffs  rise  four  hundred  feet,  gradually 
sloping  as  they  extend  southward,  where,  at  the  ter- 
minus, they  are  three  hundred  feet  high.  Tlie  land 
also  descends  eastward  until  in  the  middle  portions  it 
sinks  under  the  sea.  If  the  water  among  the  islands 
on  the  south  side,  were  filled  up,  Grand  Menan  would 
form  a  triangular-shaped  body  of  land ;  but  then  the 
east  coast  would  be  as  destitute  of  harbors  as  the 
west.    As  it  remains,  the  eastern  shore  afifords  many 


Grand  Menan. 


45 


le 


facilities  to  the  sliipi)ing.  There  are  no  clifTs  on 
this  side,  except  at  the  northern  end,  and  in  one  or 
two  places  towards  the  south.  The  villag«is  and  roads 
are,  of  course,  confined  to  the  6ast  side.  Only  a  few 
narrow  cart-tracks  extend  to  the  west  side,  which  is 
generally  reached  by  going  through  the  woods  on 
foot. 

At  the  present  time  the  inhabitants  number  about 
eighteen  hundred.  There  arc  not  less  than  four  hun- 
dred dwelling-houses  and  five  hundred  buildings  of  all 
other  kinds.  There  are  five  societies  of  Baptists,  and 
a  Church  of  England  Parish.  This  is  at  Grand 
Harbor.  Tiie  schools  at  present  number  only  three, 
though,  according  to  a  legal  provision,  they  may  have 
seven.  The  inhabitants  maintain  a  military  organiza- 
tion. The  only  taxes  paid  are  for  the  county  and  the 
poor.  These  are  moderate.  They  hold  public  meet- 
ings, and  make  their  own  local  laws  without  let  or 
hindrance,  and  vote  for  whomsoever  they  please  to 
represent  them  in  Parliament.  The  government  is 
liberal  everyway,  appropriating  a  certain  sum  annu- 
ally for  the  repair  of  roads,  and  selling  the  public 
iand^'  to  any  one  who  will  buy  them  at  a  low  figure 
and  pay  the  price  by  building  a  road  to  his  own  door. 
It  would  do  some  of  our  blatant  Republican  friends 
who  indulge  in  so  much  spread-eagleism  on  the 
Fourth  of  July,  to  come  down  to  Grand  Menan  and 
view  these  institutions  for  themselves.  On  the  other 
hand,  certain  of  the  grumbling  Menanites  would  do 


46 


Grand  Mcnan. 


well  tc  throw  their  nets  for  a  season  iu  the  waters  of 
Massachusetts  Bay,  where  the  Cape  Codder  is  taxed 
thirty  dollars  in  the  thousand  to  keep  his  sandy  roads 
from  being  devoured  by  the  wind,  and  where  the 
State  and  National  dues  make  men  sick  even  to  think 
of  them.  Happy  Menanites,  who,  free  from  grinding 
taxation,  now  I'ove  out  from  rock-bound  coves,  and 
quarry  at  will  in  the  silvery  mines  of  the  sea  ! 

But  this  is  not  all.  Trade  is  absolutely  yVec.  Here 
no  smuggler  waits  the  flivorable  tide,  or  the  oblivious 
fog,  to  run  his  contraband  canoe  into  solitary  nooks 
and  creeks,  as  at  Campo  Bello  and  Lubcc.  No  descend- 
ant of  Matthew  the  Publican  sits  at  the  receipt  of 
Customs  to  ask  the  nature  of  his  freight.  This  port 
is  open  to  every  market  of  the  world.  From  silk  to 
nutmeg  all  is  free.  Dainty  damsels  can  buy  their 
kids  at  prices  fabulously  low,  while  some  besides 
Dives  know  that  purple  and  fine  linen  may  be  eco- 
nomically worn.  But,  speaking  of  kids,  they  are  not 
much  needed  here.  Buckskin,  for  the  hands,  is  bet- 
ter, while  among  the  cliffs  the  feet  should  be  iron- 
shod. 

The  great  attraction  of  Grand  Menan,  is  the  cliffs. 
Of  mountains  there  are  none.  The  place  is  altogether 
unlike  Mount  Desert.  As  has  already  been  said, 
when  seen  from  the  main,  it  appears  perfectly  flat. 
Not  a  hummock  breaks  the  entire  line  of  wall. 
Among  these  cliffs  we  daily  went  a  "  cruising,"  as  our 
landlady  termed  it,  in  the  vernacular  of  the  place. 


Grand  Mcnan, 


47 


An  ordinary  clilT  is  a  fine  tiling.  To  sec  the  living 
rock  that  has  been  rent  in  twain  by  convulsions,  lift- 
ing high  up  its  scarred  front,  maintaining  an  immov- 
able calm  both  in  sunshine  and  storm,-  is  always 
impressive ;  but  when  the  cliiV  is  brought  out  on 
such  a  stupendous  scale  as  at  Grand  IMenan,  with 
all  the  accessories  of  a  wild  ocean  shore,  the  interest 
becomes  absorbing.  The  other  parts  of  the  island 
arc  of  course  invested  with  much  interest.  The  low 
eastern  shore,  i 'inged  with  small  islands  and  rocks, 
affords  many  beautiful  sights.  In  a  pleasant  day,  a 
walk  southward  has  many  charms.  The  bright  sky, 
the  shingle  beach,  the  picturesque  boats,  and  blue  land- 
locked bays  continually  enforce  the  admiration  of  an 
artistic  eye,  and  allure  the  pedestrian  on  past  cape, 
cove  and  reach,  until  he  suddenly  finds  that  miles  of 
ground  intervene  between  him  and  his  dinner. 

But  whoever  comes  here  will  desire  to  traverse  the 
entire  island  and  visit  the  regions  around  the  southern 
head.  Starting  from  Flagg's  Cove,  the  first  four  miles 
carry  us  over  a  hard  road,  as  good  as  the  drives  in  an 
ordinary  park,  which  skirts  the  shores  of  Long  Island 
l]ay,  and  leaving  us  at  Woodward's  Cove.  Besides  the 
village  meeting  house,  a  second  is  passed  during  this 
stage  of  the  journey,  in  addition  to  a  small  chapel ;  for 
whatever  else  there  may  be  wanting  here,  there  is  no 
lack  of  ecclesiastical  establishments.  At  the  covo 
there  is  a  post  office  and  various  herring  establish- 
ments, as  well  as  a  collection  of  dwellings.     Three 


48 


Grand  Menan. 


miles  farther  on  is  Grand  Cove,  a  spacious  but  shal- 
low harbor.  Here  is  the  English  Cliurch,  a  plain 
structure  of  stone,  with  no  special  attractions  of  any  sort 
to  render  it  interesting.  Ritualism  has  never  invaded 
its  walls,  and  a  good  portion  of  one  end  is  filled  up 
by  an  enormous  puljiit  and  reading  desk  of  a  pattern 
suggestive  of  Noah's  .\  k.  Opposite  the  church  is  the 
school-house.  I  stoji^cd  here  when  riding  down  the 
island  and  picked  up  a  supply  of  ammunition  to  salute 
the  village  curs  that  snapped  at  our  nag's  heels  ;  and 
at  the  same  time  stopped  at  the  school-room  to  make 
some  inquiries  about  the  route.  The  pedagogue  was 
within,  seated  upon  his  throne,  instructing  the  young 
idea  how  to  shoot,  surrounded  by  about  twenty  un- 
kempt boys.  We  were  invited  to  walk  in  and  view 
the  school ;  but  as  we  had  a  long  ride  before  us  \Ve 
thanked  the  master  and  declined  the  invitation  for 
the  time.  We  then  left  the  line  of-  the  shore  alto- 
gether, and  struck  through  a  new  road,  running  o\  3r 
a  piece  of  marshy  land  covered  with  young  trees,  and 
continued  until  we  reached  Seal  Cove,  which  is  five 
milco  farther  on  the  way.  Hero  a  brook  empties  into 
a  wee  harbor,  the  mouth  of  which  is  nearly  closed  up 
by  a  wharf.  Small  vessels,  however,  manage  to 
squeeze  in,  and  lie  in  safety.  From  thence  for  some 
distance  the  road  is  quite  hilly.  On  its  most  elevated 
part  was  another  Baptist  meeting  house.  It  being  an 
unusually  warm  day  for  Grand  Menan,  a  flock  of 
sheep  had  assembled  in  its  shade.      They  found  it 


Grand  Menan, 


49 


iiid 
ive 
[ito 
|iip 
to 

10 

led 
laii 
I  of 

it 


grateful.  Farther  on  we  had  a  view  of  the  ocean  and 
the  neighboring  isles,  while  at  the  same  time  the 
woods  .etreated  and  left  an  open  down  sprinkled  with 
sheep.  The  prospect  here  reminded  me  of  some  lines 
from  Dyer : 

"  Such  arc  tbo  downs  of  Banstead,  edg'd  with  woods, 
Aud  tow'ry  villas;  buch  Dorccstrian  fields, 
Whose  flocks  inuum'rous  whiten  all  the  land; 
Such  those  slow  climbing  wilds,  that  lead  the  etep 
Insensibly  to  Dover's  windy  cliff. 
Tremendous  height !  aud  such  the  clovered  lawns 
And  sunny  mounts  of  beauteous  Normanton." 

Crossing  this  place  we  descended  when  the  road 
again  returned  to  the  line  of  the  shore,  which  here 
holds  up  to  the  sea  a  high  perpendicular  wall.  At 
the  end  of  fourteen  miles  from  Flagg's  Cove,  we 
reached  the  house  of  Mr.  Walter  B.  McLaughlin,  a 
son  of  an  old  Waterloo  veteran,  and  one  of  the  live 
men  of  Menan.  Here,  like  Goldsmith's  broken  sol- 
dier, we  were  "  kindly  bade  to  stay,"  and  accepted  an 
invitation  to  pass  the  night. 

Mr.  McLaughlin  is  the  keeper  of  the  famous  Gannet 
Rock  Lighthouse,  and  holds  other  appointments  under 
the  Dominion.  Thoroughly  true  to  Her  Majesty,  the 
Queen,  he  is  at  the  same  time  heartily  in  sympathy 
with  the  loyal  people  of  the  United  States,  and  intel- 
ligently follows  them  in  all  their  conflicts.  The  light- 
house of  which  he  has  the  charge  may  be  seen  in 
clear  weather,  a  mere  speck  out  at  sea.  It  stands 
upon  a  small  rock,  just  large  enough  to  receive  tho 


50 


Grand  Menan» 


establishment,  which  combines  beacon  and  dwelling  in 
one.  Access  to  the  rock  can  be  had  only  in  calm 
weather,  consequently  in  the  winter  season,  in  com- 
pany with  his  family,  he  is  a  fast  prisoner,  not  having 
so  much  as  a  foot  of  ground  to  walk  on,  and  the  waves 
ever  thundering  against  the  wall.  It  being  line 
weather,  I  chanced  to  find  him  ashore,  directing  his 
haying,  and  obtained  some  of  the  local  statistics.  The 
situation  of  his  land  home  is  extremely  fine,  as  the 
breakers  dash  continually  against  the  rocks  only  a 
few  yards  from  the  door. 

Two  miles  further"  south  is  Deep  Cove,  where  a 
brawling,  dark-brown  brook  comes  out  through  an 
opening  in  a  sea-wall  thrown  up  by  the  waves  across 
its  mouth.  From  this  point  the  road  goes  on  but  a 
short  distance  before  it  terminates.  The  pedestrian 
must  then  push  on  through  paths  for  the  rest  of  the 
distance  to  the .  Southern  Head.  Here  he  will  come 
upon  the  cliffs,  and  find  the  rocks  thrown  up  in  the 
wildest  confusion.  Pintor  and  his  friend  found  much 
sameness  in  them  as  rock  studies.  One  of  the  most 
remarkable  objects  here  is  an  isolated  rock,  or  drong, 
resembling  the  figure  of  a  colossal  woman.  It  is 
known  as  the  Old  Maid,  and  is  found  on  the  west  side 
of  the  head.  It  excites  more  admiration  than  the 
general  class  known  by  the  name.  I"  has  no  tongue. 
The  other  principal  point  of  interest  found  in  this 
vicinity  is  Bradford's  Cove.  It  is  reached  by  a  path 
through  the  woods.     In  an  easterly  gale  it  is  a  place 


I 
% 


Grand  Menan. 


51 


jre  a 
;h  an 
Lcross 

ut  a 

trian 
tlio 

• 

Icome 
the 
uch 
imost 
ong, 
lit  is 
side 
the 
gue. 
this 
ath 
lace 


of  safety,  yet  at  the  time  of  our  visit  the  masts  of  a 
lost  ship,  the  Mavoureen,  were  seen  rising  just  above 
the  top  of  the  waves.  Around  the  cliffs  of  the  Southern 
Head  is  a  ftivorite  nesting  place  for  the  gulls,  which  lay 
their  gray  eggs,  splashed  with  brown,  in  rude  nests, 
contrived  with  little  care  among  the  grass.  They  are 
also  found  in  one  or  two  of  the  islands  near  by.  The 
Indians  take  the  young  gulls  and  carry  them  away. 
I  saw  several  of  them  at  Pleasant  Point  that  had  been 
thus  torn  from  the  parental  nest  at  Grand  Menan. 
They  were  tamer  than  chickens,  and  were  being  fat- 
tened on  porpoise  for  some  future  feast. 

Audubon  visited  Grand  Menan  in  May,  1833,  and 
landed  at  White  Head  Island,  the  property  of  Mr. 
Frankland,  where  he  inspected  the  herring  gulls, 
then  bleeding  in  great  numbers.  His  account  of  these 
birds  is  of  much  interest.  He  says :  "  We  immedi- 
ately set  out  in  search  of  them,  directing  our  course 
toward  the  pine  wood,  in  which  we  were  informed  we 
should  find  them.  As  we  came  up  to  the  place  I 
observed  that  many  of  the  gulls  had  alighted  on  the 
tir  trees,  while  a  vast  number  were  sailing  around,  and 
when  we  advanced,  the  former  took  to  wing,  aban- 
doning their  nests  and  all  flew  about  uttering  inces- 
sant cries.  I  was  greatly  surprised  to  see  the  nests 
placed  on  branches,  some  near  the  top,  others  about 
the  middle  or  on  the  lower  parts  of  the  trees,  while  at 
the  same  time  there  were  many  on  the  ground.  It  is 
true  I  had  been  informed  of  this  by  our  captain,  but 


52 


Grand  Menan, 


I  had  almost  believed  that  on  arriving  at  the  spot  I 
should  find  the  birds  not  to  be  gulls.  My  doubts,  how- 
ever, were  now  dispelled,  and  I  was  delighted  to  see 
how  nature  had  provided  them  with  the  means  of 
securing  thair  eggs  from  their  arch-enemy,  man.  My 
delight  was  greatly  increased  on  being  afterwards 
informed  by  Mr.  Frankland  that  the  strange  habit  in 
question  had  been  acquired  by  the  gulls  within  his 
recollection ;  for,  said  he,  '  when  I  first  came  here, 
many  years  ago,  they  all  built  their  nests  on  the  moss 
and  in  open  ground ;  but  as  my  sons  and  the  fisher- 
men collected  most  of  their  eggs  for  winter  use,  and 
sadly  annoyed  the  poor  things,  the  old  ones  gradually 
began  to  put  up  their  nests  on  the  trees  in  the  thick- 
est part  of  the  woods.  The  youngest  birds,  however, 
still  have  some  on  the  ground,  and  on  the  whole  are 
becoming  less  wild  since  I  have  forbidden  strangers  to 
rob  their  nests ;  for,  gentlemen,  you  are  the  only  per- 
sons out  of  my  family  that  have  fired  a;  gun  on  White 
Head  Island  for  several  years  past.*  I  was  much 
pleased  with  the  humanity  of  our  host,  and  requested 
him  to  let  me  know  when  all  the  gulls,  or  the  greater 
part  of  them  would  abandon  the  trees  and  resume 
their  former  mode  of  breeding  on  the  ground,  which 
he  promised  to  do.  But  I  afterwards  found  that  this 
was  not  likely  to  happen,  because  on  some  other 
islands  not  distant,  to  which  tlie  fishermen  and 

eggers  have  free  access,  these  gulls  breed  altogether 
on  the  trees,  eVen  when  their  eggs  and  young  are 


Grand  Menan. 


53 


regularly  renewed  every  year,  so  that  their  original 
liabits  have  been  entirely  given  up.  Some  of  the 
nests  which  I  saw  were  placed  at  the  height  of  more 
than  forty  feet  on  the  trees  ;  others,  seen  in  the  thick- 
est part  of  the  woods,  were  eight  or  ten  feet  from  the 
ground,  and  were  placed  close  to  the  main  stem, 
so  as  to  be  with  diiliculty  observed.  It  was  truly 
curious  to  see  the  broad-winged  birds  make  their  way 
to  and  from  them  in  these  secluded  retreats.  The 
nests  placed  on  the  ground  were  several  yards  apart, 
and  measured  from  fifteen  to  eighteen  inches  in  diam- 
eter, their  cavity  being  from  four  to  six.  The  lower 
stratum  consisted  of  grass,  plants  of  various  kinds, 
moss  and  grey  lichens,  and  the  whole  was  lined  with 
fine  bent,  but  without  any  feathers.  Those  on  the 
trees  measured  from  twenty-four  to  twenty-six  inches 
in  diameter  externally,  and  were  composed  of  the 
same  material,  but  in  greater  quantity,  the  object  of 
which  I  thought  might  be  to  allow  more  space  to  the 
young  while  growing,  as  they  could  enjoy  the  pleasure 
of  running  about  like  those  hatched  on  the  ground. 
Perhaps,  however,  the  smaller  size  of  the  nests  placed 
there  may  be  owing  to  their  belonging  to  the  younger 
gulls,  as  I  have  often  observed  that  the  older  the  indi- 
vidual the  larger  is  the  nest.  About  the  beginning  of 
May  the  Herring  gulls  collect  into  great  flocks  for  the 
purpose  of  reproducing,  and  betake  themselves  to  tae 
large  sand-bars  or  mud-flats  at  low  water.  With  the 
aid  of  a  glass  you  may  see  them  going  through  their 


•  I 


( , 

;( 

A 


54 


Grand  Menan, 


■i 


I 


( 


■11 
,1 


I 


courtships ;  the  males  swell  their  throats,  walk  proudly 
about,  throw  their  heads  upwards,  and  emit  their  love 
notes.  These  general  meetings  take  place  at  all  hours 
of  the  day  according  to  the  state  of  the  tide,  and  con- 
tinue for  about  a  fortnight,  when  they  all  depart  and 
betake  themselves  to  the  island  where  they  breed." 

Leaving  this  part  of  Grand  Menan  with  many 
reffrets,  we  returned  to  Flaij2['s  Cove  to  examine  that 
region  with  more  care. 

One  day,  when  an  easterly  gale  was  blowing,  Pin- 
tor  and  I  improved  the  occasion  to  walk  around 
Sprague's  Cove  and  Swallow  Tail  Light.  Three 
fourths  of  a  mile  northward  brought  us  to  the  cliffs 
south  of  the  cove,  and  following  these  we  reached  the 
shore  of  the  place  in  question.  All  the  wa,y  along 
they  are  grandly  shattered  and  wave-worn,  presenting 
perfect  pictures  at  every  step.  The  sight  of  harebells 
and  wild  roses  drenched  by  the  salt  spray,  and  still 
holding  on  against  the  gale  in  some  crevice  half  way 
down  the  cliiF,  taught  a  lesson  of  confidence. 

Sprague's  Cove  itself  presents  the  most  complete 
view  of  a  fishing  hamlet  that  I  have  anywhere  found. 
Everything  likewise  appears  to  have  been  arranged 
for  artistic  effect.  The  old  boats,  the  tumble-down 
store-houses,  the  picturesque  costumes,  the  breaking 
surf,  and  all  the  miscellaneous  paraphernalia  of  such 
a  place,  set  off  as  they  are  by  the  noble  back-ground 
of  richly-colored  cliffs,  produce  an  effect  that  is  as 
rare  as  beautiful.     Certainly  no  artist  should  under. 


Grand  Me  nan. 


55 


take  to  depict  scenes  of  this  character  before  he  has 
studied  Spragiie's  Cove.  We  viewed  it  in  all  its 
aspects  on  this  stormy  day,  noted  the  best  points  to 
sketch  from  the  coming  summer ;  and  then  began  to 
climb  the  south  side  of  Swallow  Tail  Head,  which 
here  spreads  out  eastward  into  the  sea,  taking  the 
form  of  the  caudal  appendage  belonging  to  the  said 
bird.  The  tide  being  down,  we  first  passed  through  a 
huge  passage  eaten  out  of  a  projecting  bastion  of  the 
clitF.  Afterwards  we  climbed  straight  up  over  the 
fallen  rocks.  When  half  way  up  we  looked  back  and 
saw  in  the  face  of  the  cliff  through  which  we  had 
passed,  a  striking  profile  that  bore  so  strong  a  resem- 
blance to  the  face  of  Washington  that  we  knew  Victo- 
ria would  not  object  for  a  moment  to  our  naming  it 
"Washington's  Cliff."  This  we  did,  and  so,  gentle 
reader,  when  you  go  to  Sprague's  Cove  next  summer, 
please  use  your  (pot6nt)  influence  to  help  make  the 
name  stick. 

Nearing  the  top  of  the  cliff,  we  began  to  under- 
stand how  one  or  two  men  of  the  Ashburton's  crew 
got  up  Eel  Brook  rocks ;  for,  when  within  a  few  feet 
of  the  top,  the  force  of  the  gale  well  nigh  lifted  us 
up,  without  any  effort  on  our  part.  Once  on  the  top, 
we  walked  along  on  the  greensward  out  towards  the 
light-house,  breasting  the  heavy  gale.  The  point 
upon  which  it  stands  is  separated  from  the  rest  of  the 
head  by  a  horrid  chasm,  crossed  by  a  narrow  bridge. 
There  is  first  a  steep  descent,  before  the  bridge  can 


I 

( 


■/•I 

■'I. 

{ 

I 

i 

•i! 


i] 


SO 


Grand  Menan, 


be  reached.  To  make  this  safe,  an  anchor  with  a 
rope  attached  is  planted  in  the  ground  at  the  top. 
Holding  firmly  to  this,  we  cautiously  went  down  and 
crossed  the  bridge,  all  the  while  with  the  gale  tugging 
at  our  legs  and  trying  to  carry  them  off.  Passing 
the  lighthouse  and  climbing  out  to  the  extremity  of 
the  rocks,  Pintor  inserted  himself  in  a  crevice,  like  a 
hermit-crab  in  his  shell,  and  made  several  pencil 
sketches,  one  of  which  was  a  fishing  schooner  under 
double  reefs,  beating  around  into  the  cove.  The 
skipper's  quick  eye  detected  us  in  our  hiding-places, 
as  his  vessel  passed  under  the  cliffs,  pitching  like  a 
porpoise,  and  held  on  to  the  main  shrouds  while  he 
swung  his  "sou'westefr"  for  a  salute.  In  the  evening 
he  came  ashore  to  our  cottage,  and  regaled  us  with 
the  account  of  the  wonderful  "sea-serpent,"  which 
had  just  been  captured  (by  the  newspapers)  at  Lake 
Utopia,  together  with  the  account  of  the  serpent  at 
Eagle  Lake  in  Mount  Desert,  which  has  already  been 
referred  to.  In  the  midst  of  this  gale  a  fishing  ves- 
sel was  out  all  day  on  the  "  Ripplings,"  a  dangerous 
place  several  miles  at  sea,  where  they  seined  forty 
barrels  of  herring.  Such  facts  tell  us  something  of 
the  great  courage  and  uncompromising  perseverance 
of  these  fishermen,  who  constantly  brave  danger  in 
every  form. 

Leavitt,  in  one  of  his  poems,  gives  ns  an  admirable 
picture  of  the  scene  at  Swallow-Tail  Light  in  a 
stormy  day : 


Grand  Me  nan. 


57 


'  The  picture  view !  what  wild  Bublimity ! 
Omnipotence  lias  wukcU  and  liuil'd  the  storm, 
Tossing  tlio  deep  to  tumult.    Round  that  towor, 
Itisiug  defiant  on  its  ocean*roclc, 
Dashes  the  maniac  wave,  whoso  flying  spray 
Hung  liigli  in  air,  before  the  tempest  streams, 
While  scabirds  circle  on  exultant  wing, 
Silent  and  calm,  above  tho  roar  and  foam    • 
Of  battling  elcmcuts." 


Another  point  at  this  end  of  the  island  that  will 
bear  repeated  visits  is  Whale  Cove,  whc'e  we  first 
landed.  The  shingle  beach  extends  ent.A-^ly  across 
the  bottom  of  the  cove,  and  is  very  high  and  broad. 
Originally  the  water  extended  nearly,  if  not  quite 
through,  to  Flagg's  Cove,  where  the  ground  is  now 
occupied  by  a  meadow.  But  the  waves,  in  their 
haste  to  swallow  up  the  land,  quite  defeated  them- 
selves, and  in  their  fury  threw  up  a  barrier  which 
they  could  not  overpass ;  thus  illustrating  the  habits 
of  those  men  who  always  stand  in  the  way  of  their 
own  advancement. 

On  this  beach  are  found  some  extremely  fine  peb- 
bles of  porphyry,  jasper,  and  agate,  besides  other  min- 
erals that  the  collectors  will  be  glad  to  bring  away. 
In  clear  calm  weather  this  place  has  a  wonderful 
attraction.  On  the  east  side  is  Fish  Head,  and  on  the 
west  Eel  Brook  and  Northern  Head,  the  latter  ex- 
tending out  beyond  its  neighbor,  and  between  are  the 
blue  sky  and  water.  At  low  tide,  the  uncovered 
beach  allows  the  rambler  to  stray  as  far  as  Eel  Cove, 
but  it  is  idle  to  attempt  to  go  farther,  without  ascend- 


ill 


■^■■r"'!"' 


V 


58 


Grand  Menan. 


ing  the  cliffs  and  following  along  the  escari)ment 
Starting  from  Whale  Cove,  we  found  the  line  of 
cliffs  continually  rising.  Its  geological  character  is 
also  variable.  A  large  portion  of  the  rock  shows 
signs  of  stratification,  but  there  are  also  immense 
masses  of  trap-rock,  a  great  deal  of  which  takes  the 
basaltic  chai'acter  of  Giant's  Causeway,  the  regularly- 
formed  columns  standing  closely  packed.  Among  the 
trap-rc3k  we  found  small  specimens  of  native  copper. 
Masses  of  this  material,  of  a  dozen  pounds  weight, 
have  been  found  in  the  fields  above  the  shore.  One 
of  the  natives,  who  saw  us  hammering  among  the 
rocks,  seemed  to  think  that  we  were  speculators  spy- 
ing out  the  land.  He  accordingly  took  an  ax,  came 
after  us,  and  rendered  good  sei'vice  in  splitting  open 
the  trap.  If  anything  was  going  on,  he  evidently 
wanted  to  have  a  hand  in  it,  and  to  share  the  prize. 
Eventually  he  concluded  that  we  knew  no  more 
about  what  was  to  be  found  in  the  rocks  than  he  did. 
Assured  of  this,  he  returned  to  swing  a  scythe  in  a 
neighboring  field. 

On  one  of  those  extremely  foggy  days,  such  as 
occur  here  too  often,  Pintor  and  I  took  a  long  ramble 
under  the  cliffs  among  the  slippery  rocks  that  lie  at 
their  base,  and  found  it  a  fatiguing  work,  though  wa 
thought  it  paid.    This  time  we  had  none  of  those 

"  Bluc-hayred  defs 
That  drenrio  hang  o'er  Dover's  cmblaunched  clefg," 


Grand  Mcnan. 


59 


but  the  genuine  Menan  fo<^',  direct  from  the  Grand 
Bank.  It  was  so  dense  as  to  be  perfectly  oppressive, 
while  the  line  of  vision  was  bounded  by  the  escarp- 
ment of  the  cliffs  and  the  breaking  surf  close  by  on 
the  shore.  We  could  not  see  the  ocean,  yet  from  out 
an  impenetrable  vail  it  launched  its  booming  thunder, 
rolling  sullenly  against  these  long  adamantine  walls, 
and  filling  us  at  times  with  a  kind  of  indefinable 
di'ead  and  awe.  Still,  we  knew  the  ways  of  the  tide, 
and  felt  confident  that  there  was  no  danger  to  be 
apprehended  from  the  "  bore,"  which,  higher  up  the 
Bay  of  Fundy,  puts  men  on  the  seashore  in  peril  of 
their  lives.  Therefore,  we  scrambled  on  among  the 
rocks  and  heaps  of  drift-wood,  of  which  there  is 
enough  on  every  beach  to  gladden  the  hearts  of  all 
the  poor  widows  in  New  York.  As  we  passed  along, 
we  noted  the  place  where  two  waterfalls  ordinarily 
belong.  Only  one  was  now  to  be  seen  coming  down 
the  cliff,  reduced  almost  to  a  thread,  and  spinning 
itself  into  a  veil  of  airy  lace  before  reaching  the  bot- 
bottom.  I  consoled  myself  for  the  failure  of  the 
water  with  a  reflection  of  Dr.  J6hnson  at  the  empty 
Fall  of  Tiers — Nature  never  gives  everything  at 
once.  Here  we  turned  and  pursued  the  homeward 
way,  leaving  the  cliffs  behind  us  like  grand  melancholy 
ghosts,  doomed  to  haunt  the  fog  forever. 

It  was  a  far  different  day  that  we  dedicated  to 
Indian  Beach,  on  the  west  side  of  the  island,  and  the 
resort  of  the  Passamaquoddy  Indians.     It  is  full  four 


■ 


;W 


H 

I  I 


'I 
'I 

<i 

I 

i 


i! 
1 


I 


' 


60 


Grand  Menan. 


miles  from  Flagg's  Cove,  and  in  going  thither  it  will 
not  prove  amiss  to  take  a  boat  at  Whale  Cove  and 
sail  around,  on  account  of  the  dilFiculty  of  the  walk. 
Amarinta,  Pintor  and  I  took  a  wagon  as  far  as  the 
head  of  Eel  Brook,  where  the  road  running  across  the 
island  ends.  The  rest  of  the  journc}'^  was  done  on 
foot.  From  the  end  of  the  road  we  moved  westward 
and  crossed  Eel  Brook,  a  stream  that  runs  from  its 
source  in  a  little  lake  near  by,  to  the  cove,  where  it  is 
lost  in  the  sea.  At  the  brook  is  a  little  mill,  one  of 
eleven  that  in  the  wet  season  do  the  sawing  of  Menan. 
The  rest  of  the  way  to  the  shore  lies  through  a  wood- 
path,  where  we  found  several  of  the  bark  lodges  that 
form  the  winter  camps  of  the  Indian  hunter.  There 
is  still  considerable  game  here,  though  for  the  past 
three  years  the  hunting  of  deer  has  been  strictly  pro- 
hibited. But  Indians,  and  certain  of  the  inhabitants, 
have  no  regard  for  the  law.  There  is  quite  a  large 
number  of  deer  on  the  island.  Our  landlady  told 
us  that  the  previous  summer  she  suddenly  came  face 
to  face  with  one  of  these  antlered  beauties,  who, 
after  looking  at  her  until  he  was  throroughly  satis- 
lied,  turned  and  capered  away  into  the  woods.  Mr. 
Gerrish,  the  old  settler  already  alluded  to,  brought 
a  pair  of  moose  to  the  island  and  dismissed  them  to 
the  woods.  In  course  of  time  they  multiplied  to  such 
an  extent  that  moose  were  quite  plenty.  In  1818  no 
less  than  a  dozen  were  killed.  They  have  now  be« 
come  extinct. 


r 


li 


Grand  Mcftan, 


6i 


Notwithstanding  the  distance  from  the  mainland, 
the  deer  occasionally  swim  across  to  find  a  refuge 
from  the  dogj;,  who  are  feared  more  than  the  surging 
Bca.  Of  the  fact  itself  there  can  be  no  doubt.  If 
Leander  swam  the  Hellespont  for  his  love,  what 
may  not  a  powerful  deer  do  for  his  life?  Still, 
it  is  after  all  difficult  to  conceive  of  the  exact  mental 
state  of  an  animal  that  plunges  into  the  surf  at  West 
Quoddy,  and  breasts  the  furious  tide  to  reach  the  low 
purple  wall  that  he  discovers  nine  miles  over  the 
waves.  ITow  does  he  know  that  there  is  land  there  ? 
He  may  scent  it,  but  do  not  conclude  that  he  knows 
it,  though  his  eye  may  be  more  telescopic  than  ours. 
This  perhaps  is  the  solution :  as  a  drowning  man 
catches  at  a  straw,  so  a  hotly-pressed  buck,  hearing 
the  panting  of  the  hound,  accepts  what  resembles  the 
Highlands  of  Neversink  as  a  sanctuary.  He  is  a 
quick-witted,  sensible  creature,  and  when  he  sees  tha^ 
he  has  but  one  chance,  he  takes  that  one  chance,  anu 
makes  the  most  of  it.  The  crew  of  the  Revenue 
Cutter  lately  caught  a  noble  fellow  in  this  identical 
mood,  when  he  was  about  half-way  over,  and  hauled 
him  on  board.  I  did  not  hear  the  sequel;  but  let 
us  picture  the  jolly  tars  as  endowed  with  their  tradi- 
tional generosity,  which  leads  them  to  admire  courage 
in  misfortune,  and  not  less  kind  than  the  sea.  As 
for  the  Indians,  they  have  as  little  regard  for  mercy 
as  for  law ;  and,  statute  or  no  statute,  they  will 
have  the  venison  and  pelt.     In  these  little  lodges  that 


>4 


i!i 


r 


62 


Grand  Menan, 


M 


( ( 


I  r, 


1:1 


we  were  jirt  speaking  of,  they  crouch  around  the 
lire  kindled  in  the  middle  on  tho  ground,  and  doom 
the  gentle  fawns  to  death.  We  looked  into  several 
and  found  the  forked  sticks  that  serve  as  pot-hooks 
still  suspended  from  above.  The  coming  winter  they 
will  doubtless  return,  and  then  more  than  one  desper- 
ate buck  will  take  his  death-leap  down  the  cliffs  of 
Grand  Men  an. 

Passing  these  lodges,  the  path  eventually  ends  in 
the  open  fields  near  the  clids,  and  here  is  a  most  con- 
venient break,  where  we  descended  to  the  beach. 
This  place  is  known  as  Long's  Eddy,  as  the  tide  sees 
fit,  on  reaching  this  part  of  the  coast,  to  imitate  the 
playfulness  of  a  kitten  chasing  her  tail.  Here,  too,  the 
herring  sports  in  search  of  smaller  fry,  which  become 
his  prey.  But  the  herring,  in  turn,  becomes  the  prey 
of  the  porpoise,  and  the  porpoise  the  prey  of  the 
Indian,  and  the  Indian  the  prey  of  the  oil  factor. 
Where  the  law  of  retribution  ends  I  cannot  say,  but 
sometimes  it  certainly  reaches  the  dupes  in  the  grease 
department  of  Wall  Street. 

From  .this  point  the  way  was  open  northward  along 
the  beach  to  the  fine  crags  of  Bishop's  Head.  Close 
by,  a  shingle  beach  projects  like  a  flattened  V,  leaving 
behind  it, 'at  the  foot  of  the  cliffs,  a  small  lake,  on 
the  border  of  which,  within  the  reach  of  the  salt 
spray,  were  several  flourishing  firs.  It  was  very 
trustful  in  the  trees  to  grow  here. 

Opposite,  towards  the  mainland,  we  saw  where  the 


Grand  Menan, 


63 


Fenians,  during  their  invasion,  sunk  a  vessel;  and 
looking  southward  along  the  coast,  a  wliite  l^each 
glimmered  in  the  afternoon  sun.  We  judged  it  a 
mile  and  a  half  distant,  and  set  out  to  walk  there,  as 
the  tide- was  now  far  enough  down.  The  first  half  of 
the  distance  was  easily  accomplislied,  as  there  is  a 
hroad  strip  of  beach  covered  with  small  stones,  but 
the  rest  of  the  distance  is  extremely  liard.  As  we 
were  plodding  along,  a  whale — 

"  Loviathnn,  wliich  God  of  all  His  works 
Created  hugest  that  swim  tho  ocean  etrenm," 

vouchsafed  to  pay  his  respects,  rearing  his  dark  sides 
above  tlie  waves  with  infinite  ease  and  grace. 

Nearing  our  destination,  the  difficulties  of  the  route 
increased,  as  the  shore  was  piled  with  boulders  vary- 
ing in  size  from  a  barrel  to  a  small  cottage,  many  of 
which  were  moist  and  slippery.  It  was  a  severe  trial 
for  Amarinta,  and  our  slow  progress  enabled  Pintor, 
who  was  more  nimble  of  foot,  to  stop  occasionally  and 
sketch  the  forms  of  the  rocks,  which  are  magnificently 
colored,  and  great  treasures  for  a  sea-side  painter. 

Finally  every  difficulty  was  passed,  and  we  stepped 
upon  the  smooth  shore  of  Indian  Beach.  Here  are 
,the  lodges  of  the  Indians,  built  chiefly  of  bark,  and 
kept  in  place  by  large  s  -^nes  laid  on  the  roofs  and 
against  the  sides.  It  was  a  windy  afternoon  and 
unfit  for  porpoise  hunting. 

It  has  been  already  stated  that  these  Indiiuis  belong 


i 


In 
1 


64 


Grand  Menan, 


to  the  Passamaquocldy  tribe  about  ^Yhom  some  facts 
may  not  prove  unacceptable.  Father  Vetromile  says 
that  the  name  is  a  corruption  of  Peskaraaquontik, 
from  the  name  Peskadaminkkanti,  it  goes  up  into  the 
open  fields  and  not  from  the  word  Quoddy,  haddock^ 
as  commonly  supposed.  Their  ancient  village  was 
on  the  British  territory  now  occupied  by  St.  Andrews. 
They  lost  their  lands,  and  for  some  time  led  a  roving 
life,  but  finally  land  was  granted  them  at  Syhaiky 
Pleasant  Point,  Maine.  This  is  about  five  miles 
above  Eastport,  though  a  small  company  afterward 
fixed  their  abode  at  Lewis'  Island.  The  latter  belong 
to  the  so-called  "  New  Party,"  which  sprang  into 
existence  during  a  controversy  about  their  governor 
or  chief.  They  number  about  four  hundred  and  forty, 
and  draw  an  annuity  from  the  government.  Their 
houses  are  comfortably  built,  though  not  in  all  cases 
neatly  kept.  At  the  time  I  visited  their  village  the 
house  of  the  governor  was  undergoing  repairs,  and 
the  Indians  had  also  completed  a  "  hall,"  which  they 
use  for  dancing,  an  amusement  of  which  they  are 
immoderately  fond,  and  in  which  both  grown  persons 
ftnd  children  indulge  until  the  small  hours  come,  ani- 
mated by  a  fiddle  or  fife. 

The  school,  supported  by  the  Board  of  Education, 
numbers  about  thirty-live  scholars,  but  when  I  looked 
into  the  school-house  there  were  only  five  or  six  pres- 
ent. The  master  apologized  for  the  thin  attendance, 
saying  that  they  all  went  to  the  dance  the  previous 


Grmid  Menan. 


6s 


;ases 
the 
and 

they 
are 

■sons 
ani- 

.tion, 
oked 


night.  It  is  impossible  to  put  them  under  any  set 
discipline.  About  eleven  o'clock,  the  scholars,  many 
of  whom  are  twenty  years  old,  began  to  come  in  one 
by  one,  looking  tired  and  sleepy.  They  study  little, 
but  make  up  for  their  lack  of  industry  by  giggling. 
It  is  impossible  to  force  them.  Yet  some  are  quite 
proficient,  and  the  master  called  upon  one  bright  look- 
ing little  girl,  whose  English  name  was  Mary,  to 
spell  some  words  in  her  Primer  for  the  edification  of 
Amarinta  and  myself.  But  Mary  was  unused  to 
strangers,  and  on  being  urged  gently  she  hid  her  face 
in  her  hands  and  burst  into  tears.  We  were  quite 
sorry  for  being  the  cause  of  grief,  and  tried  all  man- 
ner of  blandishments  to  win  her  confidence,  including 
a  lavish  outlay  of  small  coin ;  yet  while  prudently 
holding  on  to  the  cash  with  one  hand  she  covered  her 
face  with  the  other,  and  was  inconsolable.  We  gave 
it  up  at  last  and  went  to  look  into  the  church,  dedi- 
cated to  St.  Anne.  It  is  neat  in  its  appearance, 
though  profusely  adorned  with  meretricious  prints, 
such  as  find  their  way  into  the  poorer  class  of  Ro- 
man churches.  Attached  is  a  house  for  the  priest. 
The  Indians  are,  of  coursfcj  devout  Romanists,  and 
several  of  their  number  have  been  made  deacons ; 
an  office  which  they  support  in  accordance  with  the 
Indian  ideas  of  dignity  and  decorum.  Their  burying 
ground  on  the  hill-side  at  Pleasant  Point,  presents 
those  picturesque  features  which  ordinarily  belong  to 
the  aborigines  who  hold   the   Roman  faith.      Each 


ir 


>i 


66 


Grand  Menan, 


grave  is  housed  with  wood,  and  huge  crosses  lift  them- 
selves up  from  afar.  The  branch  which  settled  at 
Lewis'  Island  also  have  a  church  dedicated  to  St. 
Anne. 

At  all  seasons  of  the  year  the  people  are  more  oi* 
less  scattered,  being  engaged  in  hunting,  fishing  and 
basket-making.  In  the  latter  employment  they  do 
not  excel.  The  Indian  blood  is  by  no  taeans  pure, 
being  much  corrupted  by  aa  infusion  of  French.  But 
their  faces  are  well  bronzed,  and  the  most  of  them  are 
sufficiently  savage  in  their  aspect.  But  let  us  return 
to  Menan. 

Here  on  the  beach  we  found  quite  a  colony.  -A 
part  of  them  spoke  English.  Their  canoes,  finely 
built,  and  worth  from  twenty-five  to  fifty  dollars 
apiece,  were  drawn  up  in  a  row  on  the  sand.  Some 
of  the  men  were  trying  out  porpoise  oil,  and  others 
were  making  or  repairing  the  various  implements  of 
their  crafb ;  while  several  children  were  playing  with 
dogs.  It  was  a  novel  scene,  indeed,  with  the  noble 
back-ground  of  cliffs  crowned  with  dark  green  foliage. 
Pintor  accordingly  pulled  out  his  sketch  book,  and 
rapidly  transferred  the  picture  to  its  pages,  a  knot  of 
these  savages  all  the  while  looking  over  his  shoulder, 
and  expressing  their  admiration  or  surprise  with  a 
grunt.  For  myself  I  made  inquiries  about  the  por- 
poises and  the  mode  of  catching  them,  while  Ama- 
••^ata  spake  with  the  women  concerning  baskets. 

Their  custom  is  to  shoot  them  with  a  rifie,  and, 


Grand  Menan. 


67 


por- 
lAma- 


before  they  have  time  to  sink,  paddle  up  and  make  fast 
with  a  lance,  when  the  creature  is  dead  taking  him 
into  the  canoe.  I  afterwards  saw  them  at  their  work. 
One  Indian  sat  at  the  stern  of  the  canoe,  using  his 
paddle  as  easily  as  a  fish  does  his  fins,  and  another, 
rifle  in  hand,  stood  at  the  bow.  And  who  is  this 
dark  complexioned,  small  bodied,  but  firmly  knit  In- 
dian, with  an  eye  like  a  snake,  stealthily  searching 
the  waves  for  his  prey  and  clutching  his  rifle  with 
such  a  significant  grasp  ?  I  thought  I  had  seen  him 
before.  This  is  the  Reverend  Tomma  Denni,  Deacon 
of  the  Holy  Roman  Catholic  Church.  If  he  could 
scent  a  heresy  as  he  tracks  a  porpoise,  he  would 
answer  as  an  examiner  of  the  Inquisition.  Pity  the 
porpoise  upon  whom  he  "  draws  a  bead,"  for  he  is  as 
good  as  in  the  try-pot.  The  Reverend  Tomma  fishes 
for  both  porpoises  and  men. 

Some  distance  south  is  Dark  Cove,  a  place  marked 
by  many  romantic  features.  The  harbor,  formed  by 
the  sea  wall,  is  about  a  mile  long,  and  half  a  mile 
wide.  In  1846  a  channel  was  cut,  when  the  sea 
rushed  in  with  a  loud  roar  and  raised  the  level  of  the 
water  eight  feet,  giving,  ordinarily,  a  depth  of  from 
five  to  nine  fathoms.  On  the  landward  side  of  the 
harbor  is  a  clearing  of  fifty  acres.  In  1852  one  John 
Sinclair  had  been  living  in  this  lonely  spot  for  quar- 
ter of  a  century.  Vessels  can  enter  the  harbor  at 
about  two  hours  from  higU  water.  Here  they  lie  in 
perfect  safety.     This  is  a  lumbering  station,  and  has 


:| 


68 


Grand  Menan, 


few  residents,  except  at  the  busy  season  of  the  year. 
The  path  thither  lies  through  the  woods,  and,  nearer 
at  hand,  is  Money  Cove,  where  search  has  been  made 
for  the  treasures  of  the  inevitable  Kidd,  who  was 
sacrificed  by  the  politicians  to  save  the  reputation  of 
Lord  Somers  and  the  Earl  of  Bellomont,  and  ^\hom 
popular  tradition  wrongly  represents  as  a  common, 
blood-thirsty  pirate.  The  old  song  does  not  even 
give  Kidd's  name  correctly,  (much  less  any  true  idea 
of  his  character),  making  him  say — 

"  M7  name  was  Robert  Kidd,  as  1  sailed," 

instead  of  William. 

At  this  place  a  brook  flows  down  between  two  cliffs, 
and  a  couple  of  old  wells  are  thought  to  belong  to 
some  ancient  French  settlers. 

It  was  impossible  to  visit  these  places  now,  and 
therefore  we  cast  about  us  to  devise  our  return.  At 
this  juncture  a  lucky  thought  occurred  to  Amarinta. 
The  Indians  should  carry  us  back  to  Long's  Eddy  in 
a  canoe.  It  would  save  that  climb  among  the  rocks, 
and  be  so  romantic.  A  bargain  was  therefore  struck 
on  the  spot,  two  Indians  then  carried  down  a  canoe, 
Pintor  put  his  sketch-book  in  his  pocket,  and  we  all 
carefully  got  aboard,  stowing  ourselves  away  at  the 
bottom.  One  of  our  copper-colored  brethren  sat  in 
the  bows  and  braced  up  the  mast  which  had  a  large 
spritsail  attached,  while  the  other  steerel  and  held 
the  sheet  in  his  hand.    A  fresh  breeze  was  now  blow- 


Grand  Menan. 


69 


ing  along  the  shore,  and  no  sooner  was  the  canoe  free 
from  the  beach  than  it  flew  away  before  the  wind  like 
an  arrow.  This  was  really  more  like  sailing  than 
anything  I  had  ever  experienced  before  in  my  life, 
and  we  glided  almost  noiselessly  for  a  mile  and  a 
half,  with  nothing  but  a  thin  piece  of  birch-bark  be- 
tween us  and  the  deep  Bay  of  Fundy.  The  cliffs 
went  past  as  the  railway  stations  flit  by  an  express 
train,  and  before  we  were  aware  of  the  fact  the  canoe 
safely  touched  the  shore  at  Long's  Eddy. 

As  a  place  of  summer  resort,  Grand  Menan  is  in 
some  respects  unequalled.  At  certain  seasons  the  fog 
is  abundant,  yet  that  can  be  endured.  Here  the 
opportunities  for  recreation  are  unlimited,  and  all 
persons  fond  of  grand  seashore  views  may  indulge 
their  taste  without  limit. 

The  people  are  invariably  kind  and  trustworthy, 
and  American  manners  and  habits  prevail  to  such  an 
extent  that  travellers  at  once  feel  at  'home.  They 
generally  take  a  lively  interest  in  American  affairs, 
and  are  well  informed  on  the  principal  political  ques- 
tions. During  the  late  Rebellion  many  "skedad- 
lers,"  as  the  Menanites  call  them,  took  refuge  here, 
generally  coming  over  in  stolen  boats.  They  were 
not  highly  respected,  and  the  general  opinion  is  that 
they  stole  about  as  many  boats  when  they  left  as 
when  they  came. 

This  will  never  become  a  fashionable  resort.  The 
magnificent  Mrs.  All-pork,  of  All-pork  Place,  would 


r 


70 


Grand  Mcnan. 


take  little  comfort  here.  Her  trains  would  not  draggle 
well  among  the  rocks,  and  she  would  ask  to  go  home 
by  the  first  boat.  Yet  persons  of  refined  taste,  who 
desire  to  escape  from  the  stereotyped  insipidity  of  the 
fashionable  watering  place,  and  are  willing  to  take 
such  fare  as  the  island  affords,  may  spend  a  pleasant 
month  here  in  the  summer.  For  a  number  of  years 
it  has  been  a  favorite  haunt  of  artists,  as  the  walls  of 
the  Academy  bear  witness.  The  albums  of  the  young 
ladies  hereabouts  are  full  of  their  photographs,  all  the 
prominent  arti'^ts  of  the  country  being  represented. 
As  some  may  feci  curious  on  the  subject  of  expense, 
I  may  mention  that  six  or  seven  dollars  is  the  ordi- 
nary fare  from  Boston,  and  that  half-a-dollar  a  day  in 
gold  will  cover  the  cost  of  diet,  such  as  it  is. 

But  our  sojourn  in  this  paradise  of  cliffs  came  to 
an  end,  and  we  were  obliged  to  leave.  So,  the 
reader  may  perhaps  desire  to  know  how  we  got  back 
to  the  mainland.  We  had  expected  to  take  the 
"Wednesday  packet,  but  fearing  that  the  wind  might 
not  serve,  we  left  on  the  Monday  previous.  About 
nine  o'clock  we  went  down  to  the  beach  and  saw  a 
vessel  sailing  out  of  the  cove,  and  learned  that  she 
was  bound  to  Eastport.  The  wind  was  light,  and 
therefore  could  we  overtake  her  in  a  row-boat  ? 

Then  spake  Goodman  Stanton,  a  fisherman  of  curi- 
ous genealogy,  in  whom  Cape  Cod,  Cape  Ann  and 
Mount  Desert  were  wondrously  mixed  up,  and  who 
often  unconsciously  posed  for  the  artists  visiting  the 


Grand  Menan, 


71 


it 
it 
a 
le 
id 


shore.  "We  could  hardly  catch  the  vessel  now  from 
this  place,  but  if  we  started  off  to  Whale  Cove,  we 
might  get  aboard  when  she  came  around  from  Swal- 
low Tail  Head;  very  likely  we  could.  •  And  he 
guessed  that  they  would  stop  and  take  us  aboard. 

It  was  a  beautiful  day  for  the  voyage,  and  so  I  soon 
packed  up,  put  Amarinta  and  the  luggage  into  the 
wagon,  started  off  old  Roan  limping  towards  the 
cove ;  and,  bidding  our  kind  landlady  adieu,  followed 
after  on  foot,  leaving  our  artist-friends  to  bring  up  the 
rear. 

Before  all  the  party  reached  the  shore  of  the 
cove,  the  breeze  sprang  up,  and  the  expected  vessel 
came  in  sight,  passing  on  her  way.  I  accordingly 
started  a  couple  of  fishermen  in  a  light  boat  to  head 
her  off,  and  persuade  the  skipper  to  wait.  The 
schooner  was  now  a  full  mile  from  shore,  but  they 
sprang  to  their  work  and  were  soon  half-way  out, 
when  they  stopped,  put  their  jackets  on  their  oars, 
and  waved  them  as  a  signal,  hallooing  at  the  same 
time  with  all  their  might.  Of  this  the  skipper  took 
no  notice  and  sailed  merrily  on  his  way.  Again, 
therefore,  they  plied  the  oars,  and  at  the  end  of 
another  quarter  of  a  mile  stopped  and  went  through 
a  still  more  lunatic  performance.  This  was  too  much 
for  the  skipper,  and  he  accordingly  hove  to  and 
waited  for  them  to  come  alongside.  Then  we  saw 
the  boat  leave  them,  and  the  schooner  headed  off  once 
more  on  the  course  to  Eastport.     We  now  thought 


? 


'I 


■h- 


72 


Grand  Menan. 


that  our  embassy  had  failed ;  but  it  turned  out  that 
Goodman  Stanton  knew  best;  for  as  soon  as  the 
scliooner  got  steerage  way  again,  the  skipper  put  the 
helm  down,  brought  his  craft  to,  hauled  the  jib-sheet 
to  the  windward,  and  so  wore  round  and  stood  for  the 
shore.  In  ten  minutes  more  we  were  all  on  the  deck 
of  the  Fla$hj  an  English  fishing  smack  of  thirty  tons, 
bound  for  a  cargo  of  salt.  At  the  helm  stood  a 
middle-aged  man  with  a  curious  droop  about  one  eye, 
whom  I  took  for  a  well-to-do  factor  of  fish ;  but  I 
(mentally)  cried  his  mercy  when  I  happened  to  dis- 
cover that,  instead,  he  was  a  fisher  of  men.  Yester- 
day, with  the  form  of  sound  words,  and  in  some  one 
of  the  ecclesiastical  centres  of  the  island,  he  had 
divided  the  attention  of  certain  Menanites  with  a 
Mormon  elder,  who,was  abroad  even  here  doing  the 
bidding  of  his  master  at  Salt  Lake. 

The  deck  was  covered  with  barrels  of  herring,  but 
we  found  room  to  bestow  ourselves  upon  the  trunks. 
Contrary  to  our  expectations,  the  breeze  held  fresh, 
and  the  schooner  sailed  swiftly  past  the  headlands 
for  the  east  side  of  Campo  Bello.  On  our  way  we 
had  one  of  the  finest  exhibitions  of  mirage  ever  wit- 
nessed on  this  coast,  which  has  already  been  referred 
to  in  the  chapter  on  fog.  In  three  hours  we  were  at 
the  mouth  of  Eastport  harbor,  when  the  favorable  tide 
caught  us  and  swept  us  swiftly  up  to  the  town. 

Our  trip  from  the  Isles  of  Shoals  to  Grand  Menan 
is  now  ended ;  but  next  to  the  satisfaction  taken  in 


Grand  Menan, 


73 


writing  these  notes  will  be  the  pleasure  of  doing  it 
over  again ;  for  scenes  like  those  through  which  we 
have  wandered  can  never  cloy,  but  will  retain  a  per- 
renial  freshness  after  repeated  visits  and  the  lapse  of 

years. 


EASTERN    MAINE. 

CHAPTER     V. 

Eastpout — Campo  Bello — Friar's  Head — Fort  Sullivan 
Pleasant  Point — St.  Stephen's— St.  Andrew's— Calais 
robbinston.  • 

ASTPOKT.  situated  at  the  extremity  of 
Eastern  Maine,  may  be  reached  by  rail  via 
McAdam  and  St.  Andrew's,  N.  B.     That 
is,  with  the  exception  of  the  few  miles  on 
Passamaquoddy  Bay,  which  is  done  by  the  steamer. 

In  going  there  by  sea  we  have  fair  views  of  Grand 
Menan,  and  on  tlie  left  is  the  fishing  town  of  Lubec. 
The  island  of  Campo  Bello  lies  opposite,  and  as  we 
pass  its  upper  end  it  is  incumbent  upon  us  as  good 
tourists,  to  do  as  others  do,  and  declare  that  the  tall 
rock  which  we  see  rising  from  the  water  bears  a  re- 
markable resemblance  to  a  Priar's  Head,  by  which 
name  it  is  known. 

Eastport  is  situated  on  Moose  Island,  and  is  most 
easily  reached  by  the  International  Line  of  steamers, 
sailing  direct  from  Boston.  The  entrance  to  the  har- 
bor is  very  pretty,  and  the  scenery  around  the  city  is 
charming.  There  is  a  garrison  of  United  States  troops 
here,  and  a  Custom  House.  This  being  the  dividing 
line  between  the  States  and  the  Provinces, there  will  be 


Eastern  Maine. 


75 


found  the  customary  mingling  of  Englisli  and  Amer- 
ican ideas. 

Eastport  has  about  five  thousand  inhabitants,  much 
fog,  and  a  rise  and  fall  of  the  tide  of  more  than  twen- 
ty feet.  It  is  built  upon  the  slope  of  the  hill  which  is 
tipped  by  Fort  Sullivan,  where  the  stars  and  stripes 
fly.  The  view  from  the  fort  is  well  worth  the  climb 
that  it  costs.  The  fishing  here  is  very  fine,  and  the 
naturalist  with  his  dredge  also  reaps  rich  rewards. 
About  four  miles  from  the  town  is  the  village  of 
Pleasant  Point,  the  home  of  the  Passamaquoddy  In- 
dians. A  visit  to  that  place  has  already  been  described 
in  the  previous  chapter.  The  women  of  the  village 
are  daily  seen  in  the  streets  of  Eastport,  clad  in  gay 
costumes,  engaged  in  basket  selling. 

From  this  place  we  made  a  delightful  trip  up  the 
St.  Croix  to  St.  Andrew's,  the  terminus  of  the  l^^ew 
Brunswick  and  Canada  Railroad,  by  which  one  can 
return  to  Boston  by  land,  or,  diverging  at  McAdam, 
go  on  to  St.  John's.  But  continuing  our  course  in  the 
steamer,  we  go  on  to  St.  Stephen's,  twenty-three  miles 
above  St.  Andrew's,  situated  on  the  east  side  of  the 
river,  in  Kew  Brunswick.  On  the  opposite  side,  in 
Maine,  stands  Calais,  just  as  Robbinston  stands  oppo- 
site St.  Andrew's.  The  river  is  here  very  wide.  Many 
delightful  summer  resorts  are  opening  in  this  vicin- 
ity, and  Americans  are  going  in  on  both  sides  of  the 
beautiful  St.  Croix  to  establish  hom^,^ICJ4e^j(innec- 
tion  with  the  people  here  on  th^^e'is^es^ined  to'^e- 
come  very  intimate. 


1' 


.^•-fis. 


^^  St  '<" 


^""^'^i 


■'  >'^ 


NEW    BRUNSWICK. 

CHAPTER    VI. 

Eastport  Harbou — The  Islands— Sea  Views — St.  JoifN's 
Harbor  —  St.  .John's  —  History  —  St.  John's  River — 
Fredericton — Woodstock — Grand  Lake— Routes  from 
St.  John's. 

K  order  to  reach  St.  John's  by  water,  we 
must  take  the  International  Steamer  again 
at  Eastport.    As  we  pass  out  of  the  harbor 
by  an  eastern  passage,  we  see  more  of  the 
beauties  of  the  isUmds  and  of  the  coast. 

In  passing  out,  the  steamer  runs  between  Campo 
Bello  and  a  group  of  islands  lying  on  the  left.  First 
on  the  left  are  seen  Cherry  and  Thumb-cap  Isles,  which 
appear  like  two  hillocks  forming  a  part  of  Indian 
Island,  from  which  they  soon  separate.  Behind  these 
Is  Deer  Island,  a  large  island  which  forms  a  back- 
ground for  some  other  smaller  isles.  Sailing  on,  we 
pass  Poi)e's  Folly  (where  a  Royalist,  in  the  war  of 
1812,  established  a  trading-post  and  lost  all) ;  beyond 
is  Sand  Ledge ;  ne>.<  is  Casco-Bay  Island,  which  forms 
fin  inclosure  called  Casco  Bay.  At  low  tide  is  seen 
Black  Bock  Ledge.  Next  is  a  dark-looking  island 
named  Spruce ;  back  of  whicli  is  a  green  island  called 
Sand  Island,  with  White  Island  behind  it.    All  these 


;'l   I 


New  Brunswick. 


77 


are  on  the  left.  On  Campo  Bello,  the  only  noticeable 
thing  seen  when  going  out,  is  Wilson's  Beacli,  a  fish- 
ing village ;  afCer  which  comes  the  East  Quoddy  Light, 
on  tlie  end  of  the  island.  To  the  left,  farther  out,  is 
White  Horse  Island,  the  resort  of  birds.  In  the  dis- 
tance it  appears  a  smootli  rock,  with  a  green  summit, 
rising  boldly  from  the  water. 

The  next  prominent  object  is  formed  by  the  Wolf 
Islands,  about  nine  miles  from  East  Quoddy.  At  this 
point,  Shamcook  Mountain  is  seen  on  the  left ;  Point 
Lepreau,  about  twenty-live  miles  distant,  is  directly 
ahead ;  while  Grand  Menan  rises  seaward  on  the  right, 
and,  as  we  proceed,  opens  in  succession  its  various 
lieadlands.  On  the  mainland,  Point  Lepreau  gradu- 
ally lifts  itself  up  out  of  the  sea,  tipped  with  its 
lighthouse,  but  affording  no  unusual  appearance.  The 
lighthouse  is  colored  with  alternate  bands  of  red  and 
white,  and  stands  upon  a  bold,  rocky  headland  of  red 
sandstone.  Passing  the  point,  we  come  to  Plumper's 
Hefid,  where  the  Plumper,  a  British  man-of-war,  wivs 
wrecked.  Beyond,  is  Dipper  Harbor,  safe  for  small 
craft,  and  Chance  and  Mus(iuash  Harbors.  Several 
miles  beyond  Plumi^er's  Head  is  a  lofty  headland,  ter- 
minating in  Split  Hock,  ten  miles  from  Lepreau,  where 
a  portion  of  the  rock  has  been  separated  from  the 
cliff.  In  the  distance  is  seen  Cape  Mispeck.  As  we 
approach  Split  Rock,  Musquash  Point  is  developed  on 
this  side  of  the  headland.  Here  Musquash  Harbor  is 
formed.  Off  in  the  distance,  from  tins  point  may  be 
seen  the  headlands  at  Digby,  Nova  Scotia.  From 
Split  Kock  to  Mispeck  is  a  distance  of  ten  miles,  form- 
ing a  bay  leading  to  the  mouth  of  the  St.  John's  lliver. 


r 


; 


;8 


New  Brunswick. 


Rounding  Split  Rock,  on  the  left  we  have  lines  of 
rocky  bluffs  extending  up  the  bay  towards  St.  John's. 
Irishtown  gives  the  name  to  the  first  headland,  while  a 
more  prominent  one  is  "Nigger  Head."  Beyond  this 
is  the  island  called  Mahogany ;  and  at  the  right,  as  we 
approach.  Partridge  Island  appears,  with  its  light- 
house, telegraph  station  and  forts.  In  passing  up  t6 
St.  John's,  on  the  left,  banks  of  sand  alternate  with 
the  rocky  bluffs.  Niggertown  is  opposite  Partridge, 
in  Carlton,  where  are  some  earthworks.  At  this  point, 
if  the  coast  of  Nova  Scotia  looms  up  strongly,  the 
pilot  expects  a  southerly  breeze.  Here  we  come  in  full 
view  of  the  city  of  St.  John. 

The  river,  which  gives  the  city  its  name,  was  called 
St.  John's  River,  by  Champlain,  in  1004.  In  1G35,  the 
place  was  firat  settled  by  Charles  St.  Estienne,  a  French 
nobleman,  known  as  Lord  of  Latour.  He  built  a  fort 
on  Navy  Island  in  the  harbor.  The  town  is  built  upon 
a  high  rocky  peninsula,  and  has  many  steep  streets 
descending  to  the  docks,  where  the  tide  rises  and 'falls 
about  twenty-six  fp'^t.  For  the  history  of  the  place  I 
quote  the  following : 

"Latour,  having  been  appointed  Lieutenant-Gene- 
ral,  lived  here  for  a  long  time  with  a  large  number  of 
retainers  and  soldiers,  and  traded  in  furs  with  the  In- 
dians. But,  having  fallen  into  disfavor  with  the 
French  King,  was  ordered  to  surrender  his  fort  and 
commission ;  this  he  refused  to  do,  and  an  expedition 
under  the  command  of  one  D'Aulnay  Charnissay,  was 
sent  out  in  1G43  to  eject  him.  D'Aulnay  blockaded 
the  fort,  but  Latour,  having  got  assistance  of  men  and 
ships  from  Governor  Winthrop  of  Boston,  drove  his 


Nczv  Brunswick. 


79 


Ins 


fleet  back  to  Port  Royul  (now  Annapolis,  N.  S.),  ;vhero 
a  number  of  liis  vessels  were  driven  ashore  and  de- 
stroyed. Again,  in  1G45,  D'Aulnuy  attacked  the  fort, 
and  Latour,  being  absent  with  a  number  of  his  men, 
his  lady  took  command,  and  defended  it  with  so  much 
skill  and  perseverance  that  the  fleet  was  compelled  to 
withdraw.  Having  received  reinforcements,  D'Aul- 
nay  shortly  afterwards  returned,  and  again  attacked 
the  fort  by  land.  After  three  days,  spent  in  several 
unsuccessful  attacks,  a  Swiss  sentry,  who  had  been 
bribed,  betrayed  the  garrison,  and  allowed  the  enemy 
to  scale  the  walls.  ^Madain  Latour  personally  headed 
her  little  band  of  flfty  men,  and  heroically  attacked 
the  invaders;  but  seeing  how  hopeless  was  success, 
she  consented  to  terms  of  peace,  offered  by  D' Aulnay, 
if  she  would  surrender  the  fort.  He  immediately, 
upon  getting  possession,  disregarded  all  the  conditions 
agreed  to,  hung  the  whole  garrison,  compelled  this 
noblewoman,  with  a  rope  around  her  neck,  to  witness 
the  execution ;  she,  a  few  days  afterwards,  died  of  a 
broken  heart.  In  1050,  Latour  returned  to  St.  John's, 
and  received  from  the  widow  of  D'Aalnay,  who  had 
died  in  the  meantime,  the  possession  of  his  old  fort. 
In  1G53  they  were  married,  and  he  once  more  held 
peaceable  control  of  his  former  lands  as  well  as  those 
of  his  deceased  rival.  In  1054,  an  expedition  was  sent 
by  Oliver  Cromwell  from  England,  which  captured 
Acadia  from  the  French,  and  Latour  was  once  more 
deprived  of  his  property  and  possessions.  In  1007, 
Acadia  was  ceded  to  France  by  the  treaty  of  Breda, 
but  no  settlement  of  importance  was  made  until  1740, 
when  a  fort  was  built  at  tlie  mouth  of  the  Nerepis 


•i 


8o 


New  Brunswick. 


River,  about  ten  miles  from  the  city  of  St.  John.  In 
1754,  the  French  were  again  driven  out  by  the  English; 
and  in  1758,  a  garrison  was  established  at  St.  John's, 
under  the  command  of  Colonel  Moncton.  In  1764,  the 
first  English  settlers  came  to  New  Brunswick,  but  no 
permanent  settlement  was  made  until  1783,  when  the 
Royalists  arrived  and  founded  the  present  city  of  St. 
John." 

St.  John's  is  a  very  interesting  place.  The  principal 
hotel  is  the  "Victoria,"  a  new  and  finely  arranged 
establishment,  under  American  influence.  At  the 
time  of  our  visit,  the  "elevator,"  a  rare  thing  in  the 
Provinces,  was  the  special  pride  of  the  people.  One 
good  lady,  a  resident,  said,  as  we  were  being  hoisted 
up  one  day,  "There  is  nothing- like  it  in  the  States." 
We  did  not  disturb  her  feelings  by  pointing  to  the 
manufacturer's  silver  plate  on  the  door  of  the  car,  en- 
graved, ' '  Tufts,  Boston. ' '  St.  John's  has  its  Churches, 
banks,  and  other  public  institutions,  and  altogether, 
forms  a  capital  base  of  operations  in  getting  acquainted 
with  the  surrounding  regions. 

But  whatever  the  tourist  does,  he  must  not  fail  to 
take  a  trip  up  the  St.  John's  River.  There  are  two 
lines  of  steamers.  The  horse-cars  take  passengers  to 
Indiantown,  where  we  embark,  after  ha  ing  made  a 
special  trip  to  the  Ealls  of  St.  John.  We  find  the 
scenery  of  the  lower  part  of  the  river  exceedingly  wild 
and  romantic,  but  as  we  ascend  tliere  is  more  of  culti- 
vation. Beautiful  stretches  of  low  land  appear  far 
and  wide,  while  the  river  at  times  becomes  so  narrow 
that  the  steamer  hardly  has  room  to  turn.  But,  to  be 
be  more  particular,  after  leaving  the  dock,  we  pass  up 


New  Brunswick. 


8i 


to 
a 
le 

ild 

• 

1- 
[ar 
»w 
Ibe 


a  narrow  channel,  with  huge  clififs  on  either  side,  until 
we  arrive  at  South  Bay.  Opposite  is  the  Kennebeccasis 
Kiver,  which  is  navigable  for  steamers,  twenty  miles. 
Ten  miles  up  is  Brundage's  Point.  A  little  further 
we  pass  the  mouth  of  the  River  Nerepis.  Here  the 
French  erected  a  fort,  which  was  destroyed  by  the 
English  in  1654.  A  little  above  this  we  enter  what  is 
called  the  Long  Reach,  twenty  miles  long  and,  in  some 
places,  over  two  miles  wide.  Twenty-five  miles  from 
St.  John's  is  Oak  Point ;  then  Grassy  Island  is  passed; 
next  is  the  "Mistake,"  a  long  channel,  which  is  very 
deceitful  to  the  unacquainted.  We  here  begin  to 
enter  a  most  superb  farming  country;  the  banks  of 
the  river  are  broad  intervals  of  the  richest  soil,  while 
the  stream  is  studded  with  beautiful  islands.  We 
next  arrive  at  Gagetown.  Opposite  is  the  mouth  of 
the  river  Jemseg,  which  runs  from  Grand  I^ake  into 
the  St.  John.  Six  miles  further  is  Upper  Gagetown, 
the  oldest  settlement  of  the  English  in  the  Province, 
Maugerville,  on  tlie  eastern  side,  was  settled  by  emi- 
grants from  Boston  in  17G0.  Sheffield,  the  ne3^  stop- 
ping place,  is  noted  for  its  academy  for  boys.  A  few 
miles  above  is  Oromocto,  at  the  mouth  of  a  river  of 
the  same  name.  Eleven  miles  further  on  is  Frederic- 
ton,  the  capital  of  New  Brunswick,  with  its  beautiful 
cathedral,  pleasant  streets,  and  a  population  of  about 
9000.  Here,  also,  are  the  Parliament  Buildings,  the 
Government  House,  and  the  University.  I  never  shall 
forget  the  beauty  of  the  scene  as  we  approached  Fred- 
ericton  at  sunset. 

The  "Queens"  and  the  Baker  House  are  the  princi- 
pal hotels.    At  Fredericton  we  rest  over  night'  and 


82 


New  Brunswick. 


in  the  morning  we  can  return  to  St.  John's,  either  by 
bottt  or  rail.  In  returning  by  rail,  wo  shall  get  beauti- 
ful views  of  the  lower  part  of  the  river. 

While  here  at  Fredericton,  however,  many  improve 
the  opportunity  to  go  on  in  a  small  steamer  sixty-two 
miles  further  to  Woodstock,  and,  if  the  water  permits, 
to  Grand  Falls,  two  hundred  miles  from  St.  John. 
The  falls  are  very  picturesque.  At  Woodstock  one 
can  take  the  railroad  for  St.  Andrew's. 

Returning  to  St.  John's,  by  the  aid  of  a  local  guide, 
the  tourist  will  find  out  many  attractive  points  that  can- 
not be  mentioned  here ;  though  we  ought  not  to  forget 
Grand  Lake,  which  requires  a  special  trip  up  the  St. 
John.  The  steamer  for  this  lake  runs  twice  a  week. 
Also  if  the  tourist  does  not  take  the  North  Ameri- 
can Railway  for  a  trip  to  Shediac,  the  point  of  de- 
parture for  the  Bay  Chaleur,  Prince  Edward's  Isle, 
and  Cape  Breton,  he  will  run  up  a  part  of  the  way  to 
view  the  delightful  scenery  of  Kennebecassis  River, 
which  fairly  surprises  one  with  its  beauty.  In  reality, 
New  Brunswick  abounds  with  fine  landscapes. 

St.  John's  also  forms  the  point  of  departure  for 
Nova  Scotia.  From  this  point  we  cross  the  Bay  of 
Fundy  to  Digby,  a  distance  of  45  miles.  Much  is  said 
about  the  roughness  of  the  trip,  yet  in  the  season  when 
tourists  are  abroad,  there  is  nothing  to  apprehend.  In 
the  winter  it  is  quite  another  affair.  I  have  never 
found  better  voyaging  than  in  this  bay,  as  well  as  in 
the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence.  Besides,  on  all  the  boats 
and  railroad  lines,  Americans  meet  with  a  degree  of 
politeness  and  attention  for  which  they  look  in  vain  at 
home. 


NOVA    SCOT/ A. 

CHAPTER    VII. 

Markland— Bat  of  Fundy— DiriBY — Conway — Annapolis 
— Gkand  Pre— Evangeline— Windsoh—Bedfoud  Basin 
— Halifax — Routes  from  Halifax. 

|OVA  SCOTIA  is  the  "Markland"  or  Wood- 
land of  tlie  Icelanders,  who  coasted  the 
shore  in  the  tenth  and  eleventh  centuries. 
In  1004,  it  was  possessed  by  the  French. 
In  1013  the  English  seized  the  country,  only  to  surrren- 
der  it  in  1032.  After  various  transfers  it  finall.,  fell  to 
the  lot  of  England,  who  has  held  it  since  1010. 

It  is  a  beautiful  country,  abounding  in  mineral 
wealth,  which  includes  gold,  a  metal  that  has  often 
thrown  the  people  into  a  fever.  Nova  Scotia  is  already 
nearly  connected  with  New  Brunswick  by  rail  via 
Amherst  and  Truro,  on  the  peninsula.  But  a  direct 
route  to  Halifax  lies  across  the  Bay  of  Fundy  to  Digby. 
When  once  across  the  bay,  we  enter  Digby  Gut,  and 
are  impressed  by  the  bold  and  beautiful  scenery.  The 
proper  name  of  the  town  at  the  landing  is  Conway. 
Here  tourists  going  to  Weymouth  and  Yarmouth,  take 
Staling's  Stages.  Those  who  are  bound  for  Halifax, 
go  up  Annapolis  Basin  in  the  steamer  to  Annapolis,  a 
distance  of  ten  miles.    Annapolis  is  the  ancient  Port 


S 


is 


84 


Nova  Scotia. 


Royal  of  tho  French,  is  rich  in  historical  associations, 
and  is  the  scene  of  many  a  siege.  The  remains  of 
ancient  fortifications  still  appear.  The  tourist  will 
find  comfortable  accommodations  here,  if  he  desires  to 
remain  a  day  or  two.  The  distance  from  Annapolis  to 
Halifax  is  120  miles.  Leaving  St.  John's  in  the  morn- 
ing, Halifax  is  reached  the  same  evening.  We  travel 
by  the  Windsor  and  Annapolis  Railroad.  Sixty-nine 
miles  from  Annapolis  we  come  to  Grand  Pre,  celebra- 
ted as  the  home  of  the  French  Keutrals,  whose  story, 
Longfellow  has  made  the  foundation  of  his  poem  of 
"Evangeline."  I  will  not  spoil  the  poem  by  quoting 
from  it  here.  The  reader  is  advised  to  have  it  in  his 
pocket,  and  to  compare  the  descriptions  with  what  he 
sees  before  him. 

About  84  miles  from  Annapolis  is  Windsor,  where 
the  road  branches  to  Pictou,  distant  100  miles.  The 
road  to  Pictou  passes  through  much  beautiful  scenery, 
and  at  the  end,  we  can  take  the  steamer  for  Cape  Bre- 
ton, Prince  Edward  Island,  Shediac,  or  Bay  Chaleur. 
But  our  destination  is  Halifax,  and  we  go  on  by  the 
Nova  Scotia  Railroad,  a  distance  of  45  miles,  simply 
noting  that  this  junction  is  famous  for  its  plaster  quar- 
ries. King.'s  College,  the  oldest  University  in  Kova 
Scotia,  is  here. 

We  pass  nothing  noticeable  until  we  reach  Bedford 
Station,  8  miles  outside  Halifax,  where  we  have  a  view 
of  the  noble  sheet  of  water  known  as  Bedford  Basin, 
the  favorite  resort  of  pleasure  parties.  Three  miles 
farther  on,  we  pass  the  Prince's  Lodge,  once  the  resi- 
dence of  the  Dake  of  Kent,  the  father  of  Queen  Vic- 
toria. One  may  see  the  Lodge  through  the  car  window 
by  twisting  his  neck. 


Nova  Scotia. 


8s 


The  railroad  lands  us  at  Richmond  Depot,  at  the 
north  end  of  the  city.  Carriages  and  horse-cars  fur- 
nish transit  to  the  hotels.  The  principal  is  the  "Hali- 
fax Hotel."  There  is  also  the  "  International "  and 
the  "Restaurant  de  Compaine." 

The  things  to  see  in  Halifax  are  the  Citadel,  for 
which  a  pass  will  be  given  by  the  Town  Major,  the 
Dockyard,  the  Parliament  and  Provincial  Building,  the 
Free  Library,  Harbor,  and  the  Horticultural  Gardens, 
Other  places  are  duly  mentioned  in  the  local  guide, 
whose  attractions  the  tourist  will  hardly  care  to  ex- 
haust. Halifax  is  rich  in  associations,  has  pleasant 
walks  and  drives,  and  well  repays  the  journey  required 
to  reach  it. 

Prom  this  point  stages  leave  for  the  different  towns 
on  the  East  Shore,  where  some  of  th*j  gold  mines  are 
found.  Steamers  also  leave  this  place  for  the  trip 
southward  on  the  coast,  for  Portland,  Boston,  Liver- 
pool, Cape  Breton,  Prince  Edward  Island,  Bay  Chaleur, 
and  Newfoundland.  For  the  latter  place  the  tourist 
can  secure  passage  by  steam  once  a  fortnight.  This  is 
the,  route  in  going  to  that  Island.  In  going  to  Cape 
Breton,  however,  it  is  advisable  to  start  from  either 
SLediac  or  Pictou,  on  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence.  ' *Do' * 
Cape  Breton  by  all  means. 


,:» 


1,4 


if-; 


f!^: 


CAPE    BRETON. 

CHAPTER    VIII. 
The    Routes — Port    Hood — Wiiykokomaoii— Lake    Bras 

D'Or— BADDECK — BOULARDAUIE — LITTLE   BrAS  d'Or— ST. 

George's  Mount— Sidney— Lor isburcj — West  Bat — Port 
Hawksbury — Locii  Ainslie— Plaster  Cove. 

S^^S||E11S0NS  visiting  the  Provinces  will  make 
I  ^^11  a  mistake  by  omitting  the  Island  of 
■  BS^II  Cape  Breton.  The  tourist  goes  on  board 
one  of  the  steamers  of  the  P.  E.  I.  Steam 
Navigation  Company  either  at  Shediac  or  Pictou.  If 
at  the  former,  he  has  the  benefit  of  a  visit  to  Prince 
Edward  Islimd.  At  the  end  of  five  hours  the  steamer 
reaches  Port  Ilood,  a  beautiful  port  protected  by  a 
large  island ;  it  is  the  rendezvous  of  fishing  fleets.  A 
local  guide  says  :  On  the  arrival  of  the  steamer  a  stage 
leaves  for  Whykokomagh,  at  the  head-waters  of  the 
Bras  d'  Or  Lake,  and  distant  twenty-eight  miles. 
Leaving  Port  Hood  about  thirteen  miles  behind,  we 
arrive  at  the  thriving  village  at  Mabou  Bridge,  rejoic- 
ing in  its  euphonious  Micmac  appellation.  We  then 
pass  through  Upper  Mabou,  situated  on  Mabou  River. 
Fourteen  or  fifteen  miles  further  we  alight  at  "Whyko- 
komagh, and  for  the  first  time  gaze  upon  the  magnifi- 
cent Bras  d'  Or  (i.  e.  arm  of  gold).  Tliis  is  a  pictur- 
esque village.  At  its  back  rugged  hills  rise  amphithe- 
atre-like to  a  great  height,  while  from  its  feet  stretch 


Cape  Bretotu 


87 


;r. 


le- 


out  in  gentle  contrast  to  the  frowning  hills  above,  the 
smiling  waters  of  Whykokomagh  Bay,  an  inlet  of  the 
Bras  d'  Or  Lake.  Bidding  farewell  to  the  coach,  wo 
step  on  board  the  steamer,  and  are  soon  landed  safely 
at  Baddeck,  The  steamer  remains  hero  about  an  hour, 
giving  the  tourist  ample  time  to  interview  Baddeck 
and  the  Baddeckers.  But  the  hour  passes  quickly,  and 
the  shrill  steam  whistle  loudly  calls  us  to  embark  once 
more,  and  off  we  start,  losing  sight  of  Baddeck  as  we 
round  the  neighboring  extremity  of  Boulardarie  Island, 
called  by  the  Bretoners,  Red  Head,  from  the  color  of 
the  clay  that  caps  it.  Swiftly  between  Boulardarie 
and  the  adjacent  coast  of  Cape  Breton  County,  we  soon 
enter  the  Little  Bras  d'  Or. 

The  boat  makes  a  short  stay  at  the  landing,  from 
whence,  looking  back,  we  get  a  fine  view  of  St. 
George's  Mount.  Going  on  again,  we  at  last  pass 
through  the  narrow  mouth  of  the  lake,  an  achieve- 
ment that  requires  all  the  skill  of  the  pilot,  and  get 
out  to  sea,  finally  reaching  Sidney  by  coasting  the  shore 
for  a  distance  of  fifteen  miles.  Here  we  are  told  the 
wonderful  story  of  the  coal  mines,  over  which  we 
sailed  when  a  mile  out  at  sea. 

The  tourist  will  desire  to  visit  Louisburg,  distant 
some  twenty-five  miles.  Returning  to  Pictou,  it  will 
be  well  to  go  out  by  the  head  of  the  lake,  via  West  Bay 
and  Port  Hawksbury,  which  reduces  the  staging  to 
twelve  miles.  In  returning,  the  captain,  if  requested, 
will  take  the  passengers  behind  "Long  Island,"  and 
thus  afford  them  some  wild  views,  that  suggest  the 
highlands  of  the  Hudson.  The  salmon  fisher  as  well 
as  the  artist  will  also  desire  to  visit  Loch  Ainslee  and 
the  Margarie  River,  where  the  peculiarities  of  the 


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Cape  Breton. 


Scotch  scenery  are  realized.  In  fact,  all  over  the  island, 
we  are  reminded  of  the  Scots,  and  in  some  places  the 
langu.ige  and  customs  are  exclusively  Gcelic.  Here, 
indeed,  we  may  quote  "The  Bridal  of  Triermain," 
and  say : 

"Doth  not  this  rude  and  Alpino  glen 
Recall  our  favorite  haunts  again  7 
A  wild  resemblance  wo  can  trace, 
Though  reft  of  every  softer  grace, 
As  the  rough  warrior's  brow  may  bear 
A  likeness  to  a  sister  fair. 
Full  well  advised  our  Highland  host,     • 
That  this  wild  pass  on  foot  bo  crossed, 
While  round  Ben-Cruach's  mighty  base. 
Wheel  the  slow  steeds  and  lingering  chase." 

On  the  whole,  Bras  d'  Or,  well  styled  the  Arm  of 
Gold,  is  a  beautiful  and  unique  place,  that  will  yet 
prove  famous  among  our  summer  resorts.  The  facili- 
ties for  travel  and  accommodation  are  improving  every 
year,  and  every  season  the  number  of  visitors  increases. 
The  cost  of  living  is  very  moderate,  but  at  present  the 
rates  of  travel  are  quite  high. 

In  going  out  of  the  Island  via  Port  Hawksbury, 
there  is  a  choice  of  routes.  One  route  is  to  cross  the 
Strait  of  Canso  in  a  row-boat  and  take  the  stage  to 
Pictou,  on  the  opposite  side  •  or  go  by  water.  The 
latter  is  tho  easiest  course ;  i  id,  besides,  it  affords  a 
fine  view  of  the  beautiful  scenery  along  the  Strait,  and 
a  sight  of  Cape  Porcupine,  which  rises  640  feet  above 
'he  sea.  In  this  region,  and  especially  at  Plaster  Cove, 
may  be  seen  those  signs  which  indicate  the  coming  of 
pioneer  Americans  in  search  of  beautiful,  quiet  and 
healthy  sximmer-houses.  Cape  Breton  has  a  future  in 
store. 


PAET  II. 


SOUTHER]^'  SECTION. 


^1 


!      i 


v.       'I 


»  i 


0^ 

.Y{^>,-'^ 

■1       MHI— 1    #11 

^vS^SR^fll 

fe^'* 

SOUTHERN     MAINE.      ' 

CHA'  TER    I. 

Casco  Bat  —  The  Islands  —  Seb ascodegan  —  Cushino's 
Island  —  Portland  —  Scarborough  —  The  Pool  —  Old 
Orchard  —  Kittery. 


ETURNING  from  the  northern  trip,  we 
lingered  for  a  time  in  Casco  Bay,  whose 
waters  are  embraced  within  the  sheltering 
arms  of  Cape  Elizabeth  and  Cape  Small- 
Point.  This  bay  is  about  twenty-seven  miles  wide  at 
its  mouth,  and  abounds  in  varied  beauty. 

The  charm  is  the  multiplicity  of  islands,  which,  by 
their  favorable  disposition,  give  Portland  one  of  the 
finest  harbors  in  the  world.  The  number  of  islands 
visible  at  high  tide  is  thought  to  be  one  hundred  and 
ten ;  though  ftiblers  say,  one  for  every  day  iu  the  year. 
They  vary  in  size  from  a  small  rock  up  to  what  might 
form  a  township.  The  Jr-gest  is  called  "  Sebascode- 
gan."  It  is  six  and  one-naif  miles  long  and  less  than 
one  mile  wide,  being  i'^cluded  within  the  town  of 
Harpswell.  It  is  well  inhabited.  Here  likewise  is 
found  the  island  known  as  "  Orr's  Island." 

One  of  its  many  attractions  is  Cushing's  Island,  a 


^ 


Southern  Maine. 


: 


popular  summer  resort  of  lovers  of  the  beautiful,  who 
come  from  far  and  near  to  enjoy  the  bathing  and  the 
pure,  invigorating  sea  breeze  at  the  Ottowa  House. 
The  steam  communication  bet\,  3er  'he  island,  and 
Portland  is  regular,  several  trips  bemg  made  daih\ 
The  island  is  only  three  miles  from  the  city.  It  con- 
tains between  three  and  four  hundred  acres  of  land, 
and  affords  fine  marine  views.     The  fishing  is  good. 

Opposite  to  Richmond's  Island  is  the  Ocean  House, 
and  about  two  miles  distant  stands  Cape  Cottage, 
which  is  also  a  summer  resort. 

The  entire  region  is  more  or  less  invested  with  the 
interest  which  springs  from  legend  and  story.  Old 
inhabitants  have  an  unfailing  stock  of  local  traditions, 
and  revel  in  reminiscences  of  the  Indian  wars.  Ship- 
wreck, piracy  and  buried  gold  are  staple  themes  in 
summer  days,  as  well  as  winter  nights.  The  poem  on 
the  "  Dead  Ship  of  Harpswell"  given  on  page  158, 
illustrates  one  of  these  subjects. 

At  the  head  of  Casco  Bay  stands  Portland,  the  first 
city  in  Maine.  The  original  attempt  to  found  the  city 
was  made  at  Richmond's  Island,  where  business  was 
carried  on  for  many  years.  As  early  as  1 638,  a  good- 
sized  ship  arrived  at  that  island  with  a  cargo  of  wine, 
in  exchange  for  fish.  A  lively  trade  in  beaver,  oil  and 
other  commodities,  was  also  carried  on  with  the  Old 
World. 

The  ancient  name  of  the  place  was  Falmouth,  which 
Dame  superseded  the  Indian  Machigonne^  only  to  give 


Southern  Maine. 


5 


way,  in  turn,  to  a  still  moi  j  desirable  appellation.  As 
late  ,as  1718,  Portland  could  boast  of  only  twenty 
families.  In  1786,  when  the  town  took  vm  act  of 
incorporation,  the  number  of  inhabitants  was  two 
thousand.  It  now  has  more  than  twenty  thousand. 
The  city,  so  long  known  as  the  "  Forest  City,"  lost 
many  of  its  noble  trees  by  the  gi-eat  fire  of  July  4, 
18G6.  The  city  has  now  been  rebuilt,  and  possesses 
great  advantages  as  a  summer  resort.  It  is  one  hun- 
dred and  seven  miles  from  Boston  by  rail,  and  pos- 
sesses very  important  railway  and  steamship  connec- 
tions. 

Concerning  the  scenery  of  the  locality,  one  writer 
speaks  as  follows : 

"  On  Munjoy  Hill  is  an  Observatory  furnished  with 
flag-staffs,  from  which  are  signalized  vessels  and 
steamers  approaching  Portland  harbor.  A  powerful 
telescope  enables  the  observer  to  distinguish  objects 
many  miles  at  sea.  The  visitor  in  Portland  should 
not  fail  to  ascend  the  Observatory.  Mount  "Wash- 
ington, some  eighty  miles  distant,  is  plainly  seen,  and 
by  the  aid  of  the  telescope  the  snow  on  the  mountain 
very  distinctly  appears.  Looking  seaward  the  light- 
house on  Seguin  Island,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Kennebec 
river,  some  thirty  miles  away,  stands  out  prominently, 
while  a  similar  structure  on  *  half-way  rock,'  in  the 
same  line  of  vision,  seems  to  be  very  near  the  beholder. 
Cape  Elizabeth  and  the  light-house  there,  and  also 
Portland  light  can  be  distinguished  not  only  in  form 


■ 


Southern  Maine. 


\ 


v\  i 


but  in  color.  Many  of  the  islands  for  which  Casco 
Bay  is  so  famous  are  spread  out  before  the  sight. 
Almost  under  our  feet  lies  Fort  Gorges,  so  named  from 
that  worthy  nobleman  who  spent  years  and  a  fortune 
in  efforts  at  colonization  in  Maine." 

In  passing  southward  eight  »r?iles,  the  next  attract- 
ive point  on  this  part  of  Southern  Maine  is  Scarbor- 
ough Beach,  with  its  fine  strand  three  miles  long,  and 
both  still  and  surf  bathing.  This  is  one  of  the  many 
similar  places  with  which  the  coast  abounds,  though 
all  have  not  an  "  Atlantic  House"  like  this,  to  minister 
to  the  comfort  of  seaside  tourists. 

Next,  fourteen  miles  from  Portland,  we  come  to 
Saco,  famous  for  its  unrivalled  beaches.  Those  who 
linger  over  the  rambles  recorded  in  this  book,  would 
not  be  likely  to  thank  any  one  for  stating  the  amount  of 
money  invested  in  the  "  York  Mills.'*  The  water  pow- 
er that  drives  the  myriad  looms  of  the  town  may  be 
lair,  but  what  is  it  all  compared,  say  with  the  pow- 
er which  at  every  tide  fills  the  Saco  "  Pool  "?  This 
famous  institution  is  found  about  five  miles  from  Saco. 
It  is  a  nature-wrought  basin  in  the  living  rock,  con- 
nected with  the  sea  by  a  narrow  passage  a  quarter  of 
a  mile  long.  Here  large  vessels  moor  in  perfect  safe- 
ty in  all  weathers.  Such  is  the  interest  of  the  phice, 
that  no  less  than  five  hotels  have  sprung  up  for  the 
accommodation  of  summer  visitors. 

There  is  also  the  famous  "  Old  Orchard  Beach,*'  a 
name,  they  say,  which  came  from  a  growth  of  apple 


Southern  Maine, 


SCO 

rht. 

•om 
une 


ract- 
'bor- 
,  and 
nany 

LOUgll 

Qister 

ne   to 
5   wlio 
would 
lunt  of 
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lay  be 
|e  pow- 
This 
Saco. 
5k,  coii- 
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:t  safe- 


pi: 


ice, 


trees  planted  at  an  early  period.  More  carriages  can 
drive  abreast  on  this  noble  beach  than  could  have  been 
accommodated  on  the  wide  walls  of  Babylon.  The 
Old  Orchard  House  furnishes  accommodations  for  five 
hundred  guests.  This  place  is  only  four  miles  from 
the  Saco  depot. 

Says  the  Art  Review:  "What  suggestions  of  break- 
ing lines  of  surf  along  the  sandy  beach;. of  health- 
giving  breezes,  from  sea-ward ;  of  quiet  pine  wood 
temples  where  Nature  meets,  face  to  face,  her  faithful 
worshippers  ;  of  all  the  dear  delights  that,  in  a  coun- 
try sea-side  resting-place,  make  life  seem  a  thing  more 
truly  worth  the  living.  Such  a  place  is  '  Old  Orchard* 
Beach  at  Saco,  Maine,  and  they  who  care  more  for 
Nature  aifd  less  for  Fashion  can  here  receive  full 
reward,  aye,  tenfold  recompense,  for  all  distance  trav- 
eled, or  for  all  discomfort  incurred  in  reaching  this 
haven, — heaven,  I  almost  said— of  quiet  summer  rest. 
Leave  Long  Branch,  and  Newport,  and  Cape  May, 
and  the  score  of  high-sounding  city-spoiled  places 
where  nature  is  but  a  poor,  half-scorned,  half-unnot- 
iced servaut  of  Art,  so-called,  where  Fashion  holds 
high  carnival  and  revels  mid  surroundings  that  her 
blind  and  deaf  perceptions  can  neither  see  nor  under- 
stand— leave  all  these,  and  flying  Eastward,  find  at 
the  Maine  coast  such  comforts,  such  scenery,  and  such 
surroundings  as  will  make  your  heart  leap  for  joy, 
and  such  returning  health  and  vigor  as  will  impart 
new  courage  for  another  ten  months  of  vacationless 
toil  in  your  hived-up  city  place." 


I 


i 


8 


SoutJuni  Maine. 


Sixteen  miles  from  Portsmouth,  is  a  splendid  bluft 
called  Bald  Head  Cliff.  York  Beach  is  six  miles  from 
Portsmouth,  and  is  very  wide  throughout  its  entire 
length  of  two  miles.  The  town  of  York  is  reached 
by  stage  and  steamboat.  This  place  was  largely  inclu- 
ded in  the  ancient  city  of  Georgia jna,  chartered  in 
1G42.  Mount  Agamcnticus  is  one  of  the  great  at- 
tractions of  the  region.  The  Indians  regarded  it  with 
profound  veneration.  The  hotel  at  York  is  the  Mar- 
shall House 

But  if  we  were  to  undertake  to  enumerate  all  the 
splendid  beaches,  to  be  found  in  Maine,  the  space 
would  utterly  fail  us.  We  therefore  dismiss  the 
Southern  Coast  of  Maine,  though  not  without  remind- 
ing the  reader  that  there  are  other  points  f)f  interest 
on  the  coast  like  Agamenticus  and  York,  both  of 
which  have  also  been  referred  to  on  page  16. 

One  who  has  the  time,  must  not  forget  Kittery, 
which  lies  on  the  Piscataqua,  opposite  Portsmouth. 
Here  we  find  the  United  States  Navy  Yard,  and  are 
saluted  with  the  familiar  sounds  of  labor,  which  one 
misses  in  these  quiet  journeys  along  the  Maine  Coast. 
At  this  place  one  can  enjoy  delightful  rambles  on  foot, 
as  well  as  around  the  neighboring  city  of  Portsmouth. 
The  place  abounds  in  interesting  historical  associa- 
tions, it  being  the  home  of  the  famous  Peperell. 


NEW    HAMPSHIRE    COAST, 


T' 


^1 1^' 

CHAPTEll    11. 

Portsmouth  —  Frost's    Point  —  Rye     Beach  —  Hampton 
Beach  —  Boar's  Head  —  Hampton  Riveu  —  Seabrook. 

ORTSMOUTII  is  a  poiut  of  considerable 
historical  and  antiquarian  interest ;  too 
much  so,  indeed,  to  be  disposed  of  briefly 
with  profit  to  the  reader,  who  will  find  it 
worth  looking  up,  through  the  medium  of  books  more 
largely  devoted  to  the  subject.  The  region  was  visi- 
ted by  Martin  Pring  in  1 G03,  and  by  Champlain  in 
IGOo,  the  account  of  Champlaiu's  explorations  was 
published  by  him  at  Paris  in  1G13.  Ilic  accounts  was 
accompanied  by  maps  of  the  coast.  These  maps  were 
somewhat  obscure,  yet,  at  the  same  time  they  were 
more  satisfactory  than  anything  that  had  previously 
appeared.  When  in  this  vicinity,  the  natives  at  his 
request,  drew  rude  maps  of  the  coast,  using  for  the 
purpose  charcoal  from  his  camp  fire,  lie  thus  antici- 
pated Captain  John  Smith  several  years,  who,  as  we 
have  already  seen  in  Chapter  XIII,  has  no  claim  as  the 
discover  of  the  Isles  of  Shoals. 

This  place  became  the   home  of  Englishmen  prior 


it  ^ 

I! 


V : .  J 


-C. 


10 


New  Hampshire  Coast. 


to  the  settlement  of  Sulem  and  Boston,  the  Laconica 
Company  sending  a  party  of  settlers  to  the  Piscataqua 
in  1G23.  In  1G31  other  emigrants  came  out.  For 
many  years  Portsmouth  was  known  as  Strawberry 
Bank,  on  account  of  the  abundance  of  that  berry.  In 
lGo3  it  was  incorporated  as  a  town  by  the  Massachu- 
setts General  Court,  this  place  being  '*  the  river's 
mouth,  and  good  as  any  in  tlie  laud."  It  became  a 
city  in  1848. 

The  city  is  located  on  the  south  side  of  the  Piscat- 
aqua  River,  within  three  miles  of  the  Ocean  Beach. 
The  harbor  is  safe,  the  channel  is  deep,  and  the  port  is 
well  protected  by  military  works. 

At  an  early  day  the  place  received  the  impress  of 
cultured  and  aristocratic  minds.  Here  was  the  home 
of  the  Royal  Governors.  The  mansion  of  Governor 
"VVentworth,  built  in  17->0,  is  still  pointed  out  at  at  Lit- 
tle Harbor.  It  occupies  less  ground  than  formerly, 
but  the  antiquary  finds,  even  in  its  dismiuished  quar- 
ters, many  remains  of  the  applicances  devised  both  fof 
hospitality  and  defences.  The  place  is  well  worth  vis- 
iting. The  seaside  saunterer  who  turns  away  on  this 
coast  to  discover  a  luxurious  hotel,  will  find  what  he 
wants  at  the  Rockingham. 

Portsmouth  is  situated  fifty-six  miles  from  Boston, 
on  the  Eastern  Railroad,  from  which  point  the  tourists 
may  reach  the  White  Mountains  direct,  via  Concord. 

Proceeding  three  miles  southward,  from.  Ports- 
mouth, we  come  to  Frost's  Point,  where,   erst,  there 


III 


I  [.. 


New  Hampshire  Coast. 


U 


npress  of 

tlie  Uome 
Governor 

at  at  LH- 

formevly? 

ihed  quar- 

edbotlifot* 


was  a  handsome  hotel.  This  is  a  pleasant  summer 
resort ;  and,  possibly,  by  the  time  this  sketch  sees  the 
light,  a  new  hotel  will  take  the  place  of  that  destroyed 
by  fire. 

Not  far  distant  is  Straw's  Point,  a  high  bluff  com- 
manding a  view  of  the  Isles  of  Shoals  at  the  east. 

The  next  place  of  interest  on  the  coast  is  Ryo 
I>each,  a  very  beautiful  summer  resort,  jeached  Jfrom 
Northampton  station  of  the  Eastern  Railroad.  The 
great  hotel  of  this  place,  is  the  Ocean  House,  situated 
only  a  few  rods  from  the  beach,  and  commanding 
views  of  the  Isles  of  Shoals,  Little  and  Great  Boar's 
Mead,  as  well  as  a  number  of  light  houses.  The  other 
hotels  are  the  Farragut,  the  Atlantic  and  the  Bay 
View.  There  are  also  many  boarding  houses  and 
cottages.  It  is  a  very  attractive  place,  and  many  of 
the  visitors  repair  thither  year  after  year. 

In  our  seaside  pilgrimage,  we  next  pass  on  to  South 
Hampton  Beach,  where  we  find  the  famous  "  Boar's 
Head,"  a  high  bluff  extending  nearly  a  quarter  of  a 
mile  into  the  sea.  At  high  tide  it  is  nearly  insulated. 
It  forms  the  dividing  line  between  the  North  and 
South  Beaches.  Here  may  be  enjoyed  all  the  custom- 
ary sea-side  amusements,  with  an  extensive  prospect, 
including  a  view  of  Cape  Ann,  and  nine  lighthouses. 
The  point  of  departure  for  Boar's  Head  is  at  Hamp- 
ton on  the  Eastern  Railroad.  Of  Hampton  Beach 
Whittier  says : 


,-.J 


1 2  New  Hampshire  Coast. 

"  Tbo  9unli,<»Ut  glitters  keen  and  bright 
Where  miles  away, 
Lies  stretching  tu  my  dazzled  sight 
A  luminous  belt,  a  misty  light; 
Beyond  thedarlt  pine  bluffs  and  wastesof  sandy  gray." 

The  village  of  Hampton  comes  next,  situated  at  the 
mouth  of  Hampton  River.  The  dian  name  was 
Winnicumet.  The  river  here  divides  Hampton  Beach 
from  Salisbury. 

The  last  place  to  be  mentioned  on  the  New  Hamp- 
shire coast  is  Seabrook,  situated  fortv-two  miles  from 
Boston.  The  many  brooks  of  the  place,  suggested 
the  pretty  name.  Ca'  -.'s  Brook,  rising  in  Salisbury, 
runs  through  the  southeast  part  of  the  town.  Two 
hundred  years  ago,  a  citizen  of  the  jdace,  Edward 
Gove,  was  confined  in  the  Tower  in  London  for  high 
treason. 

In  the  early  times  the  inhabitants  suffered  from  the 
attacks  of  the  Indians,  who  were  guilty  of  some  horri- 
ble deeds.  Seabrook  contains  beautiful  and  extensive 
salt  marshes.  The  inhabitants  fish  in  the  summer  and 
make  shoes  in  the  winter.  At  South  Seabrook,  there 
was  formerly  to  be  found  some  of  the  most  degraded 
people  known  on  the  Atlantic  coast,  they  being  known 
as  "  Algerines."  Missionary  labor  among  them  has 
done  mucii  to  improve  their  condition. 


THE   ISLES    OF   SHOALS. 


CHAPTER    III. 

John  Smith  —  Champlain  —  Histouy  of  the  Isles 
ArrLKDOUK  —  Londonnku's  —  White  Island  —  Star 
Smutty-Nose  —  Rockweeds. 


S    S 


.Jig); 

Jiir^- 

ORTSMOUTII,  the  point  of  departure  for 
the  Isles  of  Shoals,  is  a  quaint  old  place 
of  some  historic  renown,  situated  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Piscataqua  River.  From 
thence,  in  the  summer  season,  a  small  steamer  usually 
makes  a  daily  trip  to  the  Shoals.  It  was  our  fortune, 
however,  to  sail  thither  in  the  little  yacht  Celia.  As 
the  tide  was  unfavorable,  the  Captain  had  left  his 
vessel  at  Newcastle,  about  a  mile  below,  and  brought 
up  his  yawl  to  take  ns  down.  On  such  a  perverse 
stream  as  this,  the  task  of  rowing  is  no  trifle,  yet  after 
a  hard  struggle,  in  which  the  tide  at  times  got  the  best 
of  us,  tugging  at  the  bows  of  the  boat  like  some  huge 
mastiff,  we  got  down  the  harbor,  passing  on  the  way 
mementos  of  ^t.\  least  three  wars. 

Getting  on  board  just  as  a  heavy  shower  came  on, 
blistering  the  surface  of  the  water,  we  at  once  went 
below,  though  the  crew  got  the  yacht  under  way  ;  and 
when  the  shower  was  over,  the  Celia  was  outside  of 


1 


P  I  i'? 


IHlHi 


IM 


(I 

I 


I  '• 


I 

) ; 

/ 

4'. 


14 


ne  Isles  of  Shoals, 


Portsmouth  Light.  We  were  now  heading  directly 
for  the  "  Shoals,"  as  the  people  here  say,  with  Whale 
Back  Light  to  our  left,  or  larboard  side.  This  beacon 
has  a  fixed  light  in  a  solid  tower,  fifty-eight  feet  high, 
built  upon  a  small  rock. 

Gradually  Appledore  rose  above  the  waves,  until  it 
seemed  ,to  float  insensibly 

"  Liko  a  great  ship  at  anchor." 

As  we  sailed  on,  it  became  evident  that  we  were  ap- 
proaching 

"  A  country  that  draws  fifty  feet  of  water. 
In  which  men  live  as  in  the  hold  of  nature. 

*  «  *  «  • 

A  land  that  rides  at  anchor,  and  is  moored, 
In  which  they  do  not  live  but  go  aboard." 

Or,  if  any  one  does  not  exactly  like  this  figure, 
"  That  live  as  if  they  had  been  run  aground," 

for  I  should  hardly  care  to  carry  out  Butler's  descrip- 
tion of  Holland  any  farther.  Arriving  off  the  cove 
on  the  south  side  of  Appledore,  it  was  pleasing  to  find 
the  aspect  of  these  isles  so  agreeable.  Instead  of  a 
mere  heap  of  black,  unsightly  rocks  as  I  had  anticipated, 
the  colors  were  rich,  cheerful  and  harmonious ;  and, 
being  half  covered  here  and  there  with  bright  green 
shrubs,  the  effect  of  the  islands,  as  a  whole,  when  laid 
against  the  bright  blue  sky,  was  really  admirable. 
I  shouW  have  been  glad  if  I  could  have  said  at  once 
with  Caliban,  "  This  island's  mine." 


'I 


T/ie  Isles  of  Shoals, 


15 


Going  ashore  seemed  like  going  out  of  the  littla 
steam  tug  to  get  on  board  the  Great  Eastern.  Yet 
we  soon  found  the  difference,  for  instead  of  a  reeling 
deck  there  was  the  solidity  oi  terra  jirma.  We  there- 
fore concluded  that  Butler's  last  suggestion  was  best, 
and  that  the  whole  concern  had  run  hard  aground. 
But  what  is  the  genealogy  of  these  isles  ? 

That  class  of  writers  who  scorn  investigation,  and 
seize  upon  the  first  plausible  story  that  they  can  con- 
veniently catch,  have  been  accustomed  to  say  that  the 
Isles  of  Shoals  were  discovered  in  1614,  by  Captain 
John  Smith,  who  drew  "  the  first  map  of  this  coast." 
Now,  as  regards  John  Smith,  the  simple  truth  is,  that 
in  the  above-mentioned  year  he  came  to  the  coast  of 
Maine,  and  left  his  vessel  at  Monhegan,  "  Whilest,'* 
as  he  says,  "  the  sailers  fished,  myselfe  with  eight  oth- 
ers of  them  might  best  be  spared,  ranging  the  coast 
in  a  small  boat."  In  the  course  of  this  voyage  he 
drew  a  map,  and  laid  down  these  isles  as  "  Smith's 
Isles."  There  is  not,  however,  a  line  on  record  to 
prove  that  he  ever  stei)ped  upon  their  shores. 

Such  is  the  claim  of  John  Smith  as  the  "  Discov- 
erer" of  the  Isles  of  SI  oals,  so  familiar  to  fishermen 
and  others  who  had  already  frequented  the  coast  for 
man}"-  years. 

In  this  connection  Champlain  must  be  noticed 
With  De  Monts,  he  explored  this  region  in  1605,  nino 
years  before  Smith  arrived,  and  made  a  map  of  the 
coast.     This  is  the  first  tolerable  map  to  which  we  can 


• 


.1 


iJ 
u 

H 
i 


I  I 


T/ie  Isles  of  Shoals. 

refer.  Lescarbot  says  that  they  "  explored  many 
things,"  "  viewing  all  the  coast  of  this  land,"  and 
"searching  to  the  bottom  of  the  bays." 

Champlain  approached  this  part  of  the  coast  May 
15.  At  the  east  he  saw  three  or  four  isles,  and  at  the 
west  the  mouth  of  a  bay,  that  is,  Portsmouth  harbor, 
whose  islands  he  mentioned  as  covered  with  wood.  He 
afterwards  landed  at  Odiorne's  Point,  which  he  laid 
down  in  his  map  and  called  Cape  of  the  Isles  {Le  Cap 
aux  isles).  Therefore,  if  either  of  these  explorers 
should  be  distinguished  as  the  discoverer  of  the  isles, 
the  honor  must  be  awarded  to  Champlain. 

In  regard  to  the  origin  of  their  present  name  we 
are .  left  in  doubt.  It  has  often  been  said  that  it 
superseded  the  name  given  by  the  founder  of  Viv- 
ginia,  who  called  them  "  Smith's  Isles,"  yet  this  is  a 
gratuitous  assumption.  There  is  nothing  to  prove 
that  the  name  "Isles  of  Shoals"  did  not  precede 
Smith's  name.  No  one  ever  spoke  of  "  Smith's 
Isles,"  except  Smith  himself;  whereas  it  is  not  known 
when  they  were  first  called  the  "  Isles  of  Shoals." 
The  name  was  doubtless  given  by  some  fishing  expe- 
dition, on  account  of  the  schooling  of  the  fish  at  this 
place,  and  perhaps  by  Sir  Samuel  Argall,  who,  the 
year  previous  to  the  arrival  of  Smith,  fished  in  these 
waters. 

But  though  the  origin  of  the  name  may  be  ob- 
scure, there  is  no  doubt  but  that  they  were  settled  at  a 
comparatively  early  period.     Lovett  said :     "  The  first 


The  Isles  of  Shoals. 


17 


place  I  set  my  foote  vpon  in  New  England  [K)23] 
was  the  lies  of  Slioulds  *  *  *  Vpon  these  Islands  I 
neither  could  see  one  good  timber  tree,  nor  so  much 
good  ground  as  tt>  make  a  garden."  lie  adds  that 
this  is  good  fishing  ground  for  "  G  Shippes,"  but  not 
more,  owing  to  tlie  lack  of  stage-room.  The  fact  was 
demonstrated,  he  says,  by  "  this  yeare's  experience.'* 
Thus  early  were  the  New  Englanders  found  here. 

The  isles  are  seven  in  number,  lying  nine  miles 
soutli-^ast  of  Portsmouth  Light.  The  line  dividjng 
Maine  from  New  Hampshire  passes  through  them, 
leaving  Appledore,  Haley's,  now  called  Smutty-nose, 
Duck  and  Cedar  Islands  in  the  former  State ;  and 
Gosport  or  Star  Island,  White  and  Londoner's 
Island  in  the  latter.  The  largest  is  Appledore.  Star 
Island  ranks  next,  and  Haley's  stands  third.  The 
others  ai'te  hardly  more  than  rocks. 

The  name  of  the  first  settler  is  not  definitely  known, 
though  it  might  have  been  that  Jaffi*ey,  who,  in  1G28, 
with  a  Mr.  Burslem,  paid  part  of  the  expense  of  ar- 
resting Thomas  Morton,  of  Merry  Mount.  Morton 
himself  was  brought  here  at  that  time,  previous  to 
being  sent  to  England. 

In  1635  the  southern  half  of  the  group  was  granted 
to  John  Mason;  but  in  1076  the  isles  were  occupied 
by  William  Pepperell  (father  of  Sir  William)  and  a 
Mr.  Gibbons.  They  engagf^d  for  a  time  in  the  fish- 
eries, but  finally  decided  to  remove. 

We  read  that  the  Northmen,  when  they  went  into 

a 


I  I 


t■f^'   ^■lL=*'l"|li^<Wpal'l■   itfii^n 


i8 


TAe  Isles  of  Shoals. 


Iceland,  were  guided  in  the  choice  of  ground  for  their 
colonies  by  the  hints  thrown  out  by  the  seat-posts, 
which,  being  carved  with  images  of  the  gods,  they  threw 
overboard  when  approaching  the  coast,  to  land  where 
ihe  winds  and  waves  might  toss  them.  But  Pepperell 
and  his  associate  were  guided  by  a  simpler  suggestion. 
They  cared  nothing  for  Lares  and  Penates,  and  there- 
fore each  took  a  stick,  set  it  on  end,  and  allowed  it  to 
fall  as  it  would,  then  going  to  seek  new  stations  in  the 
dirQction  indicated  by  the  fallen  sticks.  Pepperell's 
fell  to  the  north-west,  and  sent  him  to  Kittery,  while 
Gibbons'  guided  him  to  the  Waldo  Patent.  At  least, 
so  says  tradition. 

It^  is  also  stated,  on  somewhat  better  authority, 
that  Sir  William's  father  was  so  poor,  that  for 
some  time  after  his  arrival  in  this  country  he  sought 
a  wife  in  vain.  When  he  became  more  prosperous, 
the  damsel  of  his  choice  became  his  wife.  Their  son 
was  knighted  for  his  services  in  1759.  The  title  be- 
came extinct  in  181G,  and  it  is  said  that  those  who 
bore  it  actually  came  to  want.  Margery,  a  sister  of 
Sir  William,  was  accidentally  drowned  near  the  isles. 

August  14,  1G36,  Richard  Mather,  grandfather  of 
the  celebrated  Cotton  Mather,  arrived  from  Bristol, 
England,  in  the  James,  commanded  by  Captain 
Taylor.  In  his  journal  Mather  says ,  "  But  ys  eve- 
ning by  moone-light  about  10  of  ye  clocke  wee  came  to 
ancre  at  ye  lies  of  Shoals,  which  are  7  or  8  Islands 
and   other  great  rockes;    and  there   slept    sweetely 


The  Isles  of  Shoals. 


19 


yt  night  till  breake  of  day.  But  yet  ye  Lord  had 
not  done  with  us,  nor  yet  had  let  us  see  all  his  good- 
nesse  which  he  would  have  us  take  knowledge  of; 
therefore  on  Saturday  morning  about  breake  of  day, 
ye  Lord  sent  forth  a  most  terrible  siorme  of  raine 
and  easterly  wind,  whereby  wee  were  in  as  much 
danger  as  I  thinke  ever  people  were :  for  we  lost  in 
yt  i:iorning  three  great  ancres  and  cables  ;  of  which 
cables,  one  having  cost  50£  never  had  beene  in  any 
water  before,  two  were  broken  by  ye  violence  of  ye 
waves,  and  ye  third  cut  by  ye  seamen  *  *  to  save  ye 
ship."  Then  they  set  sail,  "  but  ye  Lord  let  us  see  y t 
sayles  could  not  save  us,  *  *  for  by  ye  force  of  ye 
wind  and  raine  ye  sayles  were  rent  in  sunder."  Then 
he  says  they  began  "  to  drive  with  full  force  of  wind 
and  rayne  directly  upon  a  mighty  rocke  standing' out 
in  sight  above  ye  water,  so  yt  we  did  but  continually 
wayte  when  we  should  heare  and  feele  ye  doleful!  rush- 
ing and.  crushing  of  ye  ship  upon  ye  rocke."  But 
happily  the  ship  was  guided  past  "ye  rocke"  and 
escaped,  when  new  sails  were  bent  on,  and  the  James 
headed  in  safety  for  Cape  Ann.  The  same  storm 
cast  another  emigrant  ship  ashore  at  Cape  Ann, 
where  twenty -one  persons  were  drowned,  including 
Mr.  Mather's  brother-clergyman,  Mr.  Avery,  from 
Wiltshire,  and  his  wife  and  six  children. 

About  this  time  the  trade  of  the  isles  was  quite 
flourishing,  and  as  many  as  half-a-dozen  ships  would 
be  loading  with  fish  for  Bilboa,  in  Spain.    The  in- 


'! 


1 


I': 


5.' 


^msfmmgmmi 


^m 


20 


T/ie  Isles  of  Shoals. 


habitants  were  poor,  but  distinguished  for  genuine 
worth. 

In  1G4G,  one  John  Abbot,  who  had  been  taken 
prisoner  by  the  Indians  at  Black  Point,  managed  to 
escape  with  a  pinnace  of  thirty  tons,  and  came  to  the 
Isles.  On  a  favorable  occasion,  when  the  Indians 
were  ashore,  he  greased  the  mast,  hoisted  the  sail, 
and  was  soon  beyond  their  reach. 

At  first  the  isles  were  left  without  any  settled  gov- 
ernment, but  the  inconvenience  became  so  great,  that 
in  the  year  IGGl,  Massachusetts  ere^  :d  them  into 
a  township,  one  part  lying  in  the  county  of  York  and 
the  other  part  in  that  of  Dover  and  Portsmouth,  under 
the  name  of  "  Apledoore ;"  though,  by  a  subsequent  act 
in  1G72,  they  were  all  placed  in  the  jurisdiction  of 
Dover.  The  first  settlement  was  on  Appledore,  then 
known  as  Hog  Island.  The  number  of  inhabitants 
at  that  time  has  always  been  exaggerated.  It  is 
clear  that  the  number  of  dwellings  did  not  exceed 
twenty.  They  had  a  small  meeting-house.  It  is  said 
that  the  Rev.  Mr.  Hull  was  the  first  preacher,  though 
Savage  shows  that  he  was  here  not  long  before  his 
death  in  16G5.  The  inventory  of  his  widow  states 
that  the  "  the  Isle  owed  him  for  his  ministry  £20." 
Richard  Gibson,  of  the  Church  of  England,  came 
here,  "  entertained  by  the  fishermen "  to  preach  to 
them.  He  also,  as  John  Winthrop  complains,  "  did 
marry  and  baptize."  To  this  he  added  the  crime  of 
speaking  against  the  Great  and  General  Courts  saying 


' « 


The  Isles  of  Shoals. 


21 


that  the  Shoals  were  not  within  their  jurisdiction. 
Being  apprehended  by  the  Boston  authorities,  he 
acknowledged  his  guiltiness  (in  their  eyes),  and, 
"  being  a  stranger,"  was  graciously  sentenced  "  to 
depart  the  country,"  without  any  "  other  punishment." 
lie  left  for  England  in  1G42. 

Appledore  was  ear^y  abandoned,  the  people  remov- 
ing to  the  convenient  location  afforded  bv  Star  and 
Haley's  Island.  On  the  latter  was  a  building  that 
served  as  a  Court  House,  and,  in  1C72,  cases  involv- 
ing not  more  than  ten  pounds  could  be  tried  here, 
"Provided  one  person  or  more  from  the  mayne  do  sitt 
and  joyne  with  them."  At  the  same  time  dues  of  gun- 
powder could  be  collected  of  vessels  entering  the  port, 
which  powder  should  be  used  for  "  our  safety." 

Two  years  previous  to  this  time,  however,  the  isles 
came  near  losing  their  good  name,  and  bringing  "  re- 
proach and  prejudice  to  this  colony;"  for  it  was  report- 
ed to  the  General  Court,  "  that  there  is  a  ship  riding 
in  a  roade  at  the  Isles  of  Shoals  suspected  to  be  a 
pirat,  and  hath  pirattically  seized  the  say'd  ship  and 
goods  from  some  of  the  French  nation  in  amity  with 
the  English."  The  virtuous  Court,  therefore,  thought 
fit  to  purge  itself  of  all  complicity  with  the  affair,  and 
its  resolve,  to  that  effect,  as  the  record  quaintly  says, 
was  duly  "  Publisht  in  Boston  by  beat  of  drume." 

The  people  here  were  in  no  way  implicated,  and 
yet  we  find  that  the  first  pirates  in  New  England 
originated  near  by,  beginning  their  depredations  in 


ni 


i 


rim 


BKH 


,02 


The  Isles  of  Shoals, 


1G32,  and  generally  keeping  east  of  the  Shouls.  They 
were  sixteen  in  number,  being  led  by  Dixy  liull. 
Pcma:iuid  was  their  first  prize,  and  there  one  of  their 
band  was  killed.  The  Government  sent  an  armed 
vessel  in  pursuit  of  them,  but,  on  their  promising  to 
abandon  the  trade,  the  chase  was  given  up.  It  is  said 
that  they  had  one  rule  against  excessive  drinking, 
and  another  enforcing  daily  prayers.  Sometime 
afterwards  tlie  Low  Pirates  visited  the  isles  and 
caused  one  of  the  fishermen  to  purchase  his  life 
by  cursing  the  renowned  Cotton  Mather  three 
times.  They  hated  the  llevercnd  gentleman  not 
without  cause,  for  he  really  seemed  to  enjoy  preach- 
ing a  sermon  at  the  execution  of  one  of  their  pro- 
fession. 

December  24,  1715,  the  present  town  of  Gosport 
was  erected  by  the  authorities  of  New  Hampshire, 
the  old  jurisdiction  of  "  Apledoore "  having  become 
etfete.  In  1728  Gosport's  proportion  of  the  tax  of 
one  thousand  pounds  was  sixteen  pounds  four  shil- 
lings. 

The  present  records  go  back  no  farther  than  the 
year  1730,  but  they  contain  much  interesting  informa- 
tion both  of  a  civil  and  ecclesiastical  nature. 

It  appears  that  in  the  year  1647,  it  was  contrary  to 
the  orders  of  the  General  Court  for  a  woman  to  live 
on  the  isles,  and  a  man  was  complained  of  for  bring- 
ing over  some  goats  and  hogs,  together  with  his  wife. 
The  hogs  preyed  upon  the  fish  which  was  being  cured, 


The  Isles  of  Shoals, 


2> 


3y 

.11. 

eir 
led 
to 
laid 

ime 
aiKl 

life 
Airee 

not 
eacli- 

pro- 

)Sport 

sliive, 

lecome 

ax  of 

Ir  shil- 

in  the 
Iforma- 

:ary  to 
Ito  live 
bring- 

Us  wife- 
cured, 


but  the  crime  of  the  poor  woman  is  not  mentioned. 
To  the  credit  of  the  judges  we  must  add,  that  while 
the  porkers  were  banished  the  isles,  the  man  was 
allowed  to  enjoy  the  companionship  of  his  wife. 
The  minister  from  1G51  to  1GG3  was  the  Rev.  John 
Brock,  a  graduate  of  Harvard  College,  who  appears 
to  have  been  a  man  of  great  excellence.  Cotton 
Mather  tells  a  good  story  about  him  in  his  MagnaUa. 
He  says  that  a  fisherman  who  had  been  very  useful  in 
ferrying  the  people  to  church  on  Sundays,  finally  lost 
his  boat  in  a  storm.  The  good  parson,  hearing  him 
lament  the  fact,  said,  "  Go  home  contented,  good  Sir, 
I'll  mention  the  matter  to  the  Lord;  to-morrow  you 
may  expect  to  find  your  boat.*'  And  the  account  says 
that  the  next  day  it  was  actually  restored  to  him, 
having  been  brought  up  from  the  bottom  on  the  flukes 
of  an  anchor.  Mr.  Brock  was  succeeaed  by  a  Mr. 
Belcher.  Afterwards  the  Rev.  Joshua  Moody  took 
the  clerical  duties,  and  served  from  1706  to  1731. 

The  Rev.  John  Tucke  was  the  minister  from  1732 
until  1773.  At  first  his  salary  was  one  hundred  and 
ten  "  pounds  money  or  bills  of  credit,"  to  which  was 
added  five  pounds  towards  a  house.  He  accepted  the 
office  April  28,  and  July  20  following  was  observed 
by  the  inhabitants  as  a  day  of  fasting  and  prayer  for 
a  blessing  on  his  ministry.  In  1754  his  salary  was 
one  quintal  of  "merchantable  fish"  to  each  man,  and 
his  parishioners  numbering  nearly  one  hundred,  his 
stipend,   for   those   days,  was   quite  valuable.     Two 


. 


:  i 


* 


■'■( 


^m 


A 


.24 


7Vie  Isles  of  Shoals. 


years  later  he  had  his  choice  between  waiting  for  his 
money  or  taking  his  salary  in  "  weanter  fish."  Like 
a  wise  man  he  took  the  fish,  holding  that  a  bird  in  the 
hand  was  worth  two  in  the  bnsh. 

By  degrees,  owing  to  their  attachment  to  strong 
drink,  the  people  lost  the  high  character  which  they 
so  long  bore.  When  the  Kevolntionary  war  broke 
out,  the  most  of  the  inhabitants  removed  to  the  main- 
land, for  the  reason  that  the  place  became  the  rendez- 
vous of  British  cruisers.  From  the  close  of  the  w^r 
to  the  year  1800,  those  left  here  only  had  occasional 
preaching  by  the  Rev.  Jeremiah  Shaw.  In  1790,  so 
indifferent  was  the  tone  of  feeling,  that,  as  the  records 
say,  "  Some  of  the  people  of  the  baser  sort  pulled 
down  and  burnt  the  meeting  house."  The  writer 
who  records  the  act  continues  :  "  The  special  judg- 
ment of  heaven  seems  to  have  followed  this  piece  of 
wickedness  to  those  concerned  in  it,  who  seem  since 
to  have  been  given  up  to  work  all  manner  of  wicked- 
ness with  greediness." 

Eventually  the  people  of  Massachusetts  built  them 
a  meeting  house  with  stone  walls,  on  Star  Island,  sent 
them  a  teacher,  besides  food  and  clothing,  and  in 
return  received  from  the  inhabitants  a  promise  of 
reformation.  The  Rev.  Jedidiah  Morse  preached  the 
opening  sermon  from  Ps.  118  :  25. 

The  teacher  of  "  these  unfortunate  people,"  as  the 
Portsmouth  Star  called  them  at  the  time,  was  a  Mr. 
Stevens,  who  was  also  their  spiritual  director  and  the 


The  Isles  of  Shoals, 


25 


Ilia 
ike 
the 

•ong 
tliey    . 
roke 
nain- 
i\dez- 

sioiial 
DO,  so 
ecortls 
pulled 
writer 

I  juag- 

lece  of 
since 
acked- 

ilt  them 
nd,  sent 
and  in 
mise   of 
jhed  the 

"  as  the 

ras  a  Mr. 

and  the 


Justice  of  the  Peaco.     He  died  on  Star  Island  in 
1804. 

Caleb  Chase,  of  Newburypoit,  came  to  the  isles  to 
teach  school  in  1819.  Speaking  of  himself  in  the 
book  of  record  ho  says,  that  "  He  endeavored  to  ascer- 
tain the  ages  of  tlio  people  generally,  but  many  of  them 
had  lost  their  ages  for  the  want  of  a  record."  Also 
tliat  "  When  he  came  to  the  isles  there  were  on  Star 
Ishmd  eleven  families  and  two  solitaires,  fifty-two 
souls.  On  Smutty-nose  five  families  and  one  solitary, 
twenty-six  souls,  and  on  Hog  Island  one  family,  eight 
souls ;  in  all,  eighty -six  souls." 

The  Rev.  Samuel  Sewell  arrived  on  a  "  mission," 
in  September,  1824,  and  found  fourteen  families  and 
one  "  solitary "  on  Star  Island,  in  all  sixty-ninq  per- 
sons. In  1832  the  population  had  increased  to  ninety- 
nine.  From  1804  to  1845  no  town  meeting  was  held. 
Since  that  period  the  improvement  has  been  steady, 
and  all  the  social,  political  and  religious  interest  culti- 
vated on  the  mainland  are  attended  to  here. 

But  while  I  have  digressed  in  giving  this  historical 
sketch,  the  result  of  much  labor,  my  friends  have  been 
kept  waiting  at  the  landing,  where  there  is  no  wharf, 
but  a  long  inclined  plane  built  of  plank,  descending 
under  the  water,  and  accommodating  itself  to  every 
state  of  the  tide.  Close  by  are  the  boat-houses,  and 
farther  on,  to  the  left,  is  the  private  residence  of  the 
Leighton  Brothers.  Across  the  lawn  stands  thp  hotel, 
an  enormous  building  that  has  twice  duplicateci  its 


>-;  1 


26 


The  Isles  of  Shoals. 


capacity,  and  now,  surmounted  by  its  huge  observa- 
tory, appears  in  the  distance  like  some  old-  baronial 
castle  full  of  quadrangular  nooks.  We  perceive  at  a 
glance  that  there  are  no  more  trees  on  the  island  than 
there  were  in  1G24,  when  Levett  landed,  yet  there  is 
a  broad,  generous  piazza,  nearly  three  hundred  feet 
long,  having  at  the  end  a  high  platform  large  enough 
for  a  ball-room,  completely  roofed  in,  but  open  at 
three  sides,  and  commanding  a  view  of  the  ocean, 
both  north  and  south.  We  hardly  miss  the  trees,  as 
the  air  is  so  cool,  even  rivaling  in  Lhis  respect  the 
atmosphere  of  Homer's  Atlantis.  In  leaving  the 
mainland  there  is  a  complete  change,  and  a  fortnight 
spent  here  will  alFord  the  benefits  of  an  ocean  voyage, 
wholly  sepai'ated  from  its  often  disagreeabis  experi- 
ence. In  winter  also  ihe  climate  is  superior  to  that 
of  the  mainland.  Mr.  Tucke  used  to  say  that  in  this 
season  the  isles  were  "  a  thin  underwaistcoai  warmer" 
than  in  the  corresponding  latitude  ashore. 

From  a  careful  examination  of  Appledore,  it  ap- 
pears as  if  the  sea  once  separated  it  into  two  islands. 
A  valley  terminating  ir.  coves  at  each  end  runs  across 
it.  The  southern  part  is  the  highest,  standing  as  it 
does  ninety  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  The 
northern  half  accommodates  the  hotel,  which  is  in  (lie 
little  valley  somewhat  sheltered  from  the  easteily 
winter  gales. 

Ascending  to  the  lofty  observatory,  which  affords  n 
splendid  outlook,  the  uneven,  rumpled  character  ol 


The  Isles  of  Shoals. 


27 


jrva- 
oiiial 
at  a 
than 
!re  is 
I  feet 

len  at 
ocean, 
jes,  as 
ict  tlie 
ig   the 
Ttniglit 
voyage, 
experi- 

o  that 

111  this 
varmer" 

it  ap- 

islands. 

IS  across 

ug  as  it 

a.      The 

is  in  the 

easterly 

affords  a 
tracter  ol 


this  and  the  neighboring  isles  becomes  apparent.  Since 
the  rocks  rose  from  the  bosom  of  tlie  sea,  tliere  have 
been  many  convulsions,  and  earthquakes  have  opened 
broad  seams  which  were  filled  by  the  molten  trap 
boiling  up  like  lava  from  below.  There  is  a  great 
deal  of  interest  here,  and  it  is  to  be  regretted  that  the 
State  Geologists  made  such  a  farce  of  thtii*  survey. 
It  appears  that  they  came  out  to  the  isles  in  the  rev- 
enue cutter  one  windy  day,  landed  at  two  or  three 
points,  concluded  that  there  was  considerable  surf 
running,  and  then  went  home  again,  taking  along  with 
them  a  couple  of  those  barbarous  sketches  which  dis- 
figure so  many  oiFicial  reports.  In  these  sketches 
Gosport  and  White  Island  would  find  it  impossible  to 
recognize  themselves. 

Appledore  is  just  half  a  nautical  mile  long  and 
about  three-eighths  of  a  mile  wide  in  its  broadest  or 
southern  part.  The  walk  around  it,  however  it  may 
seem,  scarcely  exceeds  a  mile  and  a  half.  It  is  quite 
fatiguing,  but  it  repays  the  labor.  Here  there  are 
none  of  those  tremendous  cliffs  which  at  Mount  De- 
sert look  down  upon  the  sea,  and  therefore  the  bold 
rocky  shore  may  be  always  followed.  In  part  there 
is  very  hard  scrambling,  by  reason  of  the  broad  rifts 
in  the  granite  and  gneiss  of  which  the  island  is  com- 
posed. The  most  of  these  are  still  paved  with  dark 
trap-rock  that  was  originally  level  with  the  surface. 
The  peculiar  structure  of  this  rock  causes  it  to  yield 
easily  to  the  force  of  the  waves,  and  thus  long  galle- 


H: 


fii 


. 


^n 


'M'i 


i 


28 


The  Isles  of  Shoals, 


ries  are  formed  in  the  granite  from  a  distance  appear- 
ing like  the  work  of  man.  In  sailing  around  the  isles 
this  feature  is  very  noticeable,  as  the  galleries  run  in 
Bome  distance  at  right  angles  with  the  beach. 

We  began  our  tour  at  the  north  side.  On  our  way 
thither  we  passed  the  monument  of  the  late  proprietor 
whose  grave  is  near  by.  This  is  a  plain  memorial 
fixed  firmly  in  the  rock. 

Mr.  Laighton  was  a  somewhat  peculiar  character. 
At  one  time  he  took  part  in  New  Hampshire  politics. 
He  afterwards  became  dissatisfied  with  the  main,  and 
took  charge  of  White  Island  Light,  where  he  lived 
for  six  years.  When  attention  began  to  be  turned  to 
the  isles,  he  built  a  small  hotel  on  Appledore  for  the 
accommodation  of  visitors.  This  hotel  has  kept  pace 
in  its  growth  with  the  fame  of  the  isles,  which  hae 
spread  all  over  the  Union.  For  the  last  twenty- 
five  years  of  his  life  Mr.  Laighton  never  once  visited 
the  busy  world  over  the  waves.  Here  he  dwelt  by 
himself,  occupying  the  position  of  Lord  of  the  Isles, 
and  when  he  died  his  remains  fitly  found  a  resting-- 
place  within  the  sound  of  the  sea  which  he  loved  so 
well. 

Arriving  at  the  cove  we  noticed  a  couple  of  fisher- 
men catching  perch,  using  rods,  as  for  trout,  notwith- 
standing the  waves  were  rolling  in,  booming  and 
blanching,  as  Tennyson  has  it,  on  the  rocks. 

Turning  westward,  we  came  to  what  is  called  the 
Greek  Cross,  formed  by  two  immense  channels  in  the 


m 


I.' 

f    f  " 

ir  ■; 


fisher- 
otvvitli- 
ig   and 


T/te  Isles  of  Shoals. 


29 


rock  intersecting  at  right  angles.  One  was  formerly 
filled  with  a  poor  metamorphic  slate,  and  the  other  with 
trap.  Both  have  been  eaten  out  by  the  sea.  The 
evidence  of  volcanic  action  is  here  very  visible.  Long 
after  their  original  formation,  the  isles  were  time 
after  time  rent  in  twain.  It  may  be  difficult  to  realize 
the  fact,  yet  the  time  has  been  when  the  waves  of 
liquid  fire,  bursting  up  from  the  great  molten  sea 
below,  vied  in  their  wrath  with  the  ocean  wave,  while 
the  brine-washed  rock  hissed  at  the  fiery  spray.  And 
will  this  occur  again  ?     Whittier  tells  us  that  when 

"  Goody  Cole  looked  out  from  her  door, 
The  Isles  of  Shoals  were  drowned  and  gone." 

This  may  some  day  take  place  in  earnest ;  for  we  do 
not  know  whether  the  earthquake  shocks  that  have 
been  felt  on  an  average  once  in  ten  years  at  a  single 
spot  on  yonder  main  ever  since  the  country  was 
settled,  are  the  dying  growls  of  a  tempest  that  is  past, 
or  the  mutterings  of  a  storm  to  come.  At  any  rate 
let  not  the  proprietors  suppose  that  I  am  in  league 
with  those  speculators  who  would  fain  buy  this  isle. 

Clambering  along  among  the  rocks,  we  found  a 
broad  gulch  that  might  be  used  as  a  dry  dock.  From 
this  point  may  be  had  a  view  of  Duck  Island  with  a 
single  old  building  on  it,  and  lying  north-east,  distatit 
exactly  three-fourths  of  a  nautical  mile.  Northward,  in 
Maine,  is  Agamenticvis.  Westward  is  Hampton  Beach, 
and  Po  Hill,  which  hides  Whittier's  home.     Close  to 


.f 


■'-  a 


mm 


I 


30 


T/ie  Isles  of  Shoals, 


the  shore  the  ledges  are  everywhere  very  fine.  "We 
returned  by  the  shingle  beach  on  the  south  shore, 
having  made  the  circuit  of  half  the  island.  ^ 

It  was  some  time  before  sunset  that  we  set  out  to 
explore  the  remaining  and  more  interesting  portion  of 
Appledore,  which  is  separated  from  the  rest  by  a 
stone  wall.  Passing  through  a  gate,  we  came  upon  a 
flock  of  sheep,  who  stared  at  us  for  a  minute,  and 
then,  following  their  leader,  ran.  Taking  the  west 
side  of  the  island,  we  walked  among  the  sheep-paths 
until  we  reached  the  ruins  of  the  old  settlement. 
Nothing  is  left  but  cellar  walls,  and  the  whole  vicin- 
age is  covered  with  elderberry  bushes,  upon  which 
was  fruit  enough  to  make  hogsheads  of  wine.  Occa- 
sionally the  ground  had  a  dark  rich  hue,  and  here  and 
there  something  was  still  left  to  indicate  that  "  once  a 
garden  smiled."  The  single  unoccupied  house  is  of  a 
modern  origin,  and,  standing  and  uncared  for  and 
alone,  it  looks  as  if  haunted. 

The  reason  why  this  spot  was  so  soon  deserted  is 
clear.  The  fishermen  had  no  beach  for  their  boats. 
The  only  place  to  land  was  ir  a  chasm  about  twenty- 
five  feet  wide  with  perpendicular  walls,  formed  by  the 
disintegration  of  the  trap-rock.  This  was  of  course 
insufficient,  and  accordingly  they  sought  the  shelter  of 
Star  and  Haley. 

Farther  eastward  another  earthquake  record  is 
found  in  what  has  been  called  Neptune's  Gallery, 
with  perpendicular  scarred  walls,  high  and  far  apart, 


The  Isles  of  Shoals, 


31 


between  which  the  breakers  roll  in  with  a  sound  that 
is  well  nigh  deafening.  Near  this  point  the  rocks  are 
high  and  bold.  Farther  on,  around  the  point,  a  cove 
makes  into  the  shore,  the  rocks  being  ragged  and  dis- 
jointed, and  piled  up  in  the  greatest  confusion.  Re- 
turning thence,  we  crossed  the  centre  of  the  island 
and  approached  the  (iairn,  which  we  had  understood 
was  Smith's  Monument,  lately  erected  to  his  memory. 
This  cairn  is  about  ten  feet  high,  bulghig  at  one  side, 
and  seeming  to  incline  like  "  Pisa's  leaning  miracle." 
Determined  to  do  the  great  adventurer  homage,  I 
shouldered  a  good-sized  fragment  of  granite,  and 
staggered  towards  the  cairn,  while  Amarinta  followed 
by  my  side,  bearing  a  tribute  of  more  delicate  propor- 
tions. These  were  reverently  added  to  the  pile ;  and, 
mens  conscia  recti,  that  is  to  say,  happy  in  the  delusion 
of  a  duty  well  done,  we  sat  down  by  the  cairn  and 
spoke  of  the  great  man's  worth.  While  here  the 
day  came  to  an  end,  the  western  clouds,  "  ministering 
with  glorious  faces  to  the  setting  sun."  At  the  same 
time  full-orbed  Luna  appeared  in  the  east,  blushing 
as  from  our  praise  of  her  loveliness.  This  meeting 
of  Day  and  Night  was  as  if  Righteousness  and  Peace 
had  kissed  each  other. 

Gradually  the  splendor  of  sunset  died  away,  and 
the  dark  blue  sky  at  the  west  shading  off  at  the 
liorizon  into  deep  purple,  whicli  threw  the  inky  tones 
of  sepia  upon  the  waves ;  while  eastward,  recovering 
from  the  embarrassment  that  attended  her  first  appear- 


f';; 


i  :*M 


vi 


"S^W 


"SS 


fi 


':     !l 


if     ::l! 


ip  .il! 


32 


T/ie  Isles  of  Shoals, 


aiice,  the  moon  looked  calmly  across  the  silvery  track 
formed  by  her  own  bright  beams  in  the  shimmering 
sea.  When  the  moon  rose  higher,  sending  lances  of 
light  down  the  western  slope  of  the  island  into  the 
cove  and  out  across  towards  the  main,  the  scene 
changed  again,  and  where  before  all  was  indistinguish- 
able in  the  twilight's  gloom,  the  boats  and  yachts 
came  out  with  a  fairy-like  aspect,  rocking  on  the  tide, 
while  the  voices  of  excursionists  bound  for  a  moon- 
light sail  were  borne  to  us  on  tlie  evening  air. 

On  returning  to  the  Appledore  House  we  were 
quite  shocked  to  learn  that  our  respect  for  Captain 
John  Smith  had  been  quite  thrown  away.  In  fact 
it  appeared  that  this  was  not  the  monument  which 
had  been  erected  to  his  memory,  but  one  that,  accord- 
ing to  tradition,  was  Imilt  by  him.  I  was  quite  con- 
fused at  first  on  discovering  my  mistake,  but  I  soon 
rallied  and  re})aid  my  informant  tenfold,  by  letting 
him  know,  as  already  stated,  that  nothing  exists  to 
indicate  that  Smith  ever  stepped  upon  these  isles.  I 
cruelly  followed  this  up  the  next  day  by  ferreting  out 
unimpeachable  testimony  which  proves  that  the  cairn 
was  erected  only  about  seventy  years  ago  as  a  mark 
for  fishermen  in  finding  the  bearing  of  their  fishing 
grounds. 

Boating  at  the  Isles  of  Shoals  is  a  favorite  amuse- 
ment. One  pleasant  day  we  rowed  to  a  number  of 
different  points.  Our  first  harbor  was  Londonner's  or 
Lounging  Island,  a  rocky  spot   three-fourths   of  a 


1  : ' 
ill 


The  Isles  of  Shoals, 


33 


nautical  mile  south-west  from  the  cove  at  Appledore. 
The  north  and  south  halves  of  this  island,  which  is 
three-sixteenths  of  a  mile  long,  arc  connected  by  a 
narrow  neck  often  covered  at  high  tide,  the  mean  rise 


and  fall  of  which  is  eight  feet  six   inches. 


Entering 


the  cove  on  the  east  side,  we  found  the  Hibernian 
fisherman,  who  dwells  here,  out  in  a  boat  catchini; 
perch  with  which  to  bait  his  trawls  for  cod.  He  told 
what  he  knew  about  his  craft,  after  which  we  put 
into  one  of  those  con^^nient  docks  formed  by  the 
erosion  of  trap  dykes,  and  went  ashore.  The  Hiber- 
nian in  question  can  say  with  Caliban,  "  This  island 's 
mine."  He  seemed  a  sort  of  Caliban  himself,  and  his 
boys  young  Calibans.  A  bettered  wooden  cottage 
takes  the  place  of  a  cave,  but  I  found  no  enchanter. 
It  appears  to  have  had  as  hard  usage  as  its  owner.  A 
fish-like  odor  pervaded  the  air,  a  goat  was  paying  atten- 
tion to  the  moss  on  the  rocks,  while  some  chickens 
and  ducks  were  picking  up  a  living  around  the  door. 
We  looked  into  the  fish-house,  and  hurried  away, 
quite  satisfied  with  what  we  saw. 

Three-fourths  of  a  mile  eastward  is  the  head  of 
White  Island.  This  island  is  nearly  one-fourth  of  a 
mile  long,  and  about  one-sixteenth  of  a  mil{)  wide. 
Here  stands  the  light-house.  From  this  point  Ports- 
mouth Light  bears  ;  early  north  north-west ;  Boon 
Island,  distant  nineteen  and  a  half  miles,  bears 
north-east  by  north,  three-fourths  east;  and  Rye 
Meeting-house,  nine  miles  distant,  north-west  by  west, 

-3 


*! 


'1 
^  f "  ( 


r 


I      !1 


li  It 


•^mmmmmmmmmmr' 


ill 


i  '       V 

ll 


,'1 


!il 


34 


T/i^  Isles  of  SJwals. 


one-half  west,     Tiie  Head  is  separated  from  the  rest 
of  the  island  at  high  tide. 

Towards  this  spot  we  now  turned  the  prow,  escorted 
by  a  lad  who  volunteered  to  serve  as  pilot.  When  we 
approached  the  lauding  at  the  light-house,  he  told  us 
that  he  had  never  been  ashore,  and  he  now  thought 
there  was  too  much  surf.  He  accordingly  backed  his 
boat  off,  and  we  rowed  in  to  reconnoitre.  "While  con- 
sidering tlw  subject,  the  Light  Keeper,  who  was  on 
the  main  rock,  seeing  our  situation,  came  down  to  the 
little  bar  where  the  surf  was  breaking,  and,  watching 
his  chance,  ran  through  the  water  and  came  opposite 
to  us.  Then  when  a  convenient  wave  rolled  in,  we 
rushed  tiie  boat  head  on  to  the  beach,  the  keeper  run- 
ning in  to  catch  her  bows.  Our  venture  was  success- 
ful, but  before  the  windlass  could  be  put  in  motion  to 
Haul  the  boat  up  the  ways,  a  second  wave,  to  the  great 
consternation  of  Amarinta,  swashed  in  over  the  stern 
a,  full  barrel  of  brine,  causing  a  precipitate  retreat 
over  the  thwarts  to  the  bows.  Finally  the  windlass, 
planted  high  up  the  beach,  was  at  work,  and  the  boat 
was  dmwu  up  out  of  the  surf.  The  keeper  then  led  the 
way  to  the  top  of  the  light-house,  situated  on  the 
highest  point  of  the  rock,  and  reached  by  a  covered 
bridge.  This  ^s  a  Fresnell  light.  Its  peculiarity  is 
that  it  has  a  single  burner  inclosed  in  a  sort  of  crystal 
palace,  formed  of  heavy  glass  blinds,  through  which 
the  light  passes.  At  a  distance  this  light  shows  a 
great  power,  though  when  viewed  close  at  hand,  it 


The  Isles  of  Shoals, 


35 


corted 

len  wo 

old  us 

tiouglit 

ted  li:8 

lie  con- 
was  on 

a  to  the 

ratcliing 

opposite 

i  io,  we 

3per  run- 
success- 

iiotion  to 

the  great 
the  stern 

te  retreat 
windlass, 

a  the  boat 

len  led  the 

Bd  on  the 
a  covered 
juliarity  is 
t  of  crystal 
)ugh  whicli 
it  shows  a 
at  hand,  it 


attracts  but  little  attention.  The  entire  arrangement 
was  imported  from  France.  The  first-class  lenses  cost 
about  ten  thousand  dollars.  Fresnell,  the  inventor, 
has  now  revolutionized  the  whole  light-house  system, 
and  conferred  a  vast  benefit  upon  mankind.  This  is  a 
flash  light,  made  to  give  out  alternate  flashes  of  red 
and  white,  at  fifteen  seconds  each.  This  lantern  has 
one  curious  effect.  Standing  by  its  side,  eighty-seven 
feet  above  the  water,  in  a  pleasant  day  it  will  be 
found  that  it  gathers  up  in  its  mighty  focal  grasp  the 
objects  on  Star  Island,  and  sets  them  down  again  out 
at  sea.  There,  for  instance,  is  the  meeting-house 
which  stands  upon  Star  Island,  planted  firmly  on  the 
uneasy  waves,  just  as  far  out  in  the  opposite  direction. 

The  keeper  lives  here  alone  with  his  assistant, 
maintaining  bachelors'  hall.  In  the  summer  they 
have  a  good  many  visitors,  but  at  other  times  it  is 
quiet  enough ;  at  least,  so  they  say. 

And  while  here  I  was  reminded  of  a  poem  that  ap- 
peared in  the  Atlantic  from  the  pen  of  Mrs.  Thaxter, 
whose  father  had  charge  of  the  light.  It  alludes  to 
the  wreck  of  the  Brig  Pochahontas,  lost  on  the  neigh- 
boring shore. 

Some  persons  might  suppose  that  this  barren  rock 
would  prove  the  last  place  in  which  to  woo  the  Muses, 
yet  in  all  such  localities  hopeful  and  receptive  mind? 
are  not  slow  in  discovering  both  benefits  and  beauties. 
Alexander  Smith,  wandering  for  a  summer  in  the 
rocky  island  of  Skye,  almost  imagined  himself  in 


36 


The  Isles  of  Shoals, 


Paradise.  This  is  in  accordance  with  the  remark  of 
Goethe  :  "  Let  no  one  say  that  the  reality  lacks  poeti- 
cal interest."  It  is  both  the  cnstom  and  the  right  of  a 
class  of  minds  to  see  everywhere  what  they  please ;  for 
there  are  really  no  asymptotes  in  nature.  Extremes 
always  meet,  barrenness  itself  running  into  beauty. 
It  demands  no  strain  upon  the  imagination  in  order  to 
discover  rare  attractions  among  these  isles,  especially  in 
the  autumn,  when  the  brightest  coloring  is  found,  and 
when  from  a  distance  they  flash  in  the  blue  sea  like 
some  huge  crystal  of  iridescent  Labrador  spar.  But 
we  were  speaking  of  the  poem.  Its  merit  alone  would 
certainly  justify  its  appearance  lie:'e,  while,  as  the  pro- 
duction of  what  we  may  call  a  resident,  its  insertion 
is  on  the  whole  demanded  : 


"  I  lit  tho  lamps  in  the  lighthouso  tower, 

For  the  sua  dropped  down  and  tho  day  was  dead} 
Thoy  shone  like  a  glorious  clustered  flower, 
Ten  golden  and  live  red. 

Looking  across,  where  the  line  of  coast 
Stretched  darkly,  shrinking  away  from  the  sea, 

The  lights  sprang  out  at  its  edge,— almost 
They  seemed  to  answer  mo. 

O  warning  lights,  burn  bright  and  clear, 
Hither  tho  storm  comes !    Leagues  away 

It  moans  and  thunders  low  and  drear,— 
Burn  till  tl>o  break  of  day ! 

Good  night !  I  called  to  the  gulls  that  sailed 
Slow  paf<t  me  through  the  evening  sky; 

And  my  comrades,  answering  shrilly,  hailed 
Mo  back  with  boding  cry. 


The  Isles  of  Shoals. 

A  mournful  brcozo  began  to  blow, 

Weird  music  vi  tlrow  tlirough  the  iron  bATS, 
The  sullen  billows  boiled  below, 

And  dimly  jjecrcd  the  stars; 

The  sails  that  flecked  the  ocean  floor 
From  cast  to  west  leaned  low  and  fled; 

They  know  what  came  in  the  distant  roar 
That  liilcd  the  air  with  dread! 

Flung  by  a  fitful  gust,  there  beat 
Against  the  window  a  dash  of  rain: 

Steady  as  tramp  of  marching  feot 
Strode  on  the  hurricane. 

It  smote  the  waves  for  a  moment  still, 

Level  and  deadly  white  for  fear; 
The  bare  rock  shuddered,— an  awful  thrill 

Shook  even  my  tower  of  cheer. 

Like  all  the  demons  loosed  at  last. 

Whistling  and  shrieking,  wild  and  wide, 

The  mad  wind  raged,  and  strong  and  fast 
llolled  in  the  rising  tide. 

And  soon  in  ponderous  showers  the  ppray, 
Struck  from  the  granite,  reared  and  sprung. 

And  clutched  at  tower  and  cottage  gray, 
Whore  overwhelmed  they  clung 

Half  drowning,  to  the  naked  rock; 

r>ut  still  burned  on  the  faithful  light, 
Kor  laltercd  at  the  tempest's  shock, 

Through  all  the  fearful  nigh,. 

Was  it  in  vain  ?    That  knew  not  we. 

Wo  seemed,  in  that  confusion  vast 
Of  rushing  wind  and  roaring  sea. 

One  point  whereon  w^as  cast 

The  whole  Atlantic's  weight  of  brine. 

Ileaven  help  the  ship  should  drift  our  way  I 
No  matter  how  the  light  might  shino 

Far  on  into  the  day. 


37 


.'  ■*  ■' 


t-    :  l] 


Hiaiifi 


38  The  Isles  of  SJioals, 

When  morning;  dnwncd  abovo't)io  din 
Of  galo  and  breaker  buonwd  a  gun  ! 

Another!    Wo,  who  sat  within, 
Answered  with  cries  each  one. 

Into  each  otlier'soyes  with  fear 
We  loolccd,  tlirough  helpless  tears,  ne  BtlU« 

Ouo  after  one,  near  and  more  near, 
Tho  signals  pealed,  until 

The  thick  storm  seemed  to  brcalc  apart, 
To  show  ns,  6tap;»oring  to  lior  grave, 

Tho  fated  brig.    We  had  no  licart 
To  look,  lor  naught  could  save. 

One  glimpso  of  black  hull  heaving  slow, 
Theu  closed  the  mists  o'er  canvas  torn 

And  tangled  ropos,  swept  to  and  fro 
Trom  masts  that  raked  forlorn. 

"Weeks  after,  yet  ringed  round  with  spray. 
Our  island  lay,  and  none  might  land; 

Though  blue  the  waters  of  the  bay 
Stretched  calm  ou  eitlier  baud. 

And  when  at  last  from  tho  distant  sliore 
A  little  boat  stole  out,  to  reach 

Our  loneliness,  and  bring  once  more 
Fresh  human  thought  and  speech, 

We  told  our  tale,  and  tho  boatmen  cried: 
*  'Twas  tho  Pocahontas,— all  wore  lost! 

For  milos  along  tho  coast  tlie  tide 
Her  shattered  timbers  tost.' 

Then  I  looked  tho  whole  horizon  round,— 
So  beautiful  tho  ocoau  spread 

About  us,  o'er  those  sailors  drowned! 
'  Father  in  heaven,'  I  said, 

A  child's  grief  struggling  in  my  breast, 
'  Do  purposely  thy  creatures  meet 

Such  bitter  death  ?    How  was  it  best 
These  hearts  should  cease  to  boatf 


I.?' 


The  Isles  of  Shoals.  ^9 

*  O  wherefore !    Are  wo  naught  to  thee? 

Like  BcnBcIc88  wcedH  that  rise  uucl  fall 
Upon  (hino  awful  sea,  arc  wo 

No  more  then,  after  ail?' 

And  I  shut  the  beauty  from  my  sight,  » 

For  I  thought  of  the  dead  that  lay  below, 

From  the  bright  air  faded  the  warmth  and  lighti 
There  came  a  chill  like  suow. 

Then  I  board  the  far-off  rote  resound, 
Where  the  breakers  slow  and  slumberous  rolled, 

And  a  su.btle  sense  of  Thought  profound 
Touolied  mo  with  power  untold.  , 

And  like  a  voice  eternal  spake, 
That  wondrous  rhythm,  and  '  Peace,  be  still  1' 

It  murmured;  •  bow  thy  head,  and  tako 
Life's  raptuve  and  life's  ill, 

And  wait.    At  last  all  shall  be  clear.' 

The  long,  low,  mellow  music  rose 
And  fell,  and  soothed  ray  dreaming  ear 

With  iulinite  repose. 

Sighing,  I  climbed  tlio  lighthouse  stair, 

Ilal  f  forgetting  my  grief  and  pain ; 
And  while  tlie  day  died,^weot  and  lair, 

I  lit  the  lamps  again." 

On  leaving  the  island  we  had  to  watch  our  chance, 
notwithstanding  it  was  such  pleasant  weather.  First 
the  Assistant  got  off  in  a  little  boat  to  pick  us  up  in 
case  of  a  mishap.  This  was  very  easily  done,  as  he 
was  used  to  it,  and  then  we  ran  our  boat  down  and 
put  Amarinta  in,  protesting,  and  declaring  that  it 
would  never  do.  The  right  minute  came,  we  shoved 
out  on  the  undertow,  sprang  to  the  oars,  and  were 
safe.     Getting  off  at  a  convenient  distance,  we  find 


.  ,-wr«.-J--*-*1*f(»ff'^»!«M)»|«) 


■  II  »B[.in  iWl)^.|ifliliiMijrtimi  m 


40 


TAe  Isles  of  S/ioals. 


that  the  head  ou  which  the  lighthouse  stands  is  a  very 
beautiful  object,  and,  with  a  fishing-smack  thrown  in, 
would,  make  a  fine  picture. 

Our  course  was  next  shaped  for  Star  Island  or 
Gosport,  the  western  cove  of  which  is  thirteen-six- 
teen'ths  of  a  mile  from  the  lighthouse.  There  is  no 
wharf  and  never  has  been  here,  though  in  17CG  the 
'people  petitioned  for  the  privilege  of  getting  uji  a  lot- 
tery to  build  one.  At  low  water  it  is  dilRcult  to  get 
ashore,  but  there  is  no  trouble  generally  on  account 
of  the  surf.  By  making  a  bridge  of  skiffs  we  reached 
the  sandy  beach  with  dry  shoes. 

Gosport  is  five-eightlis  of  a  mile  long  and  one  half 
a  mile  wide,  presenting  the  most  perfect  picture  of  a 
fisherman's  villajre  that  I  have  seen  on  the  New-Eng- 
land  coast.  Ecaching  the  shore,  we  of  course  came  in 
contact  with  the  fish,  and  experienced  the  "  pungent 
odor  of  o'erboiling  tar,"  so  that,  with  old  Ben  Jon- 
son,  one  would  fain  "sacrifice  two-pence  worth  of 
juniper  "  to  appease  his  offended  nose.  The  chikb-en 
were  in  force,  there  being  a  due  proportion  of  girls 
and  bovs,  and  among  the  latter,  perhaps,  some  little 
Enoch  Arden.     Here  they  played 

"  Among  tho  wnsto  and  lumber  of  tlio  sliorc, 
Hard  coils  of  cordage,  swartliy  lisliiiig-ucta, 
Anchors  of  rusty  fluke,  and  boats  updrawn ; 
And  built  their  castles  of  dissolving  sand." 

We   made   our   way    through   all   this    customary 
debris,  to  which  was  now  added  the  charred  remains 


The  Isles  of  Shoals, 


41. 


Liid   or 
en-six- 
5  is  no 
GG  the 
p  a  lot- 
:  to  get 
account 
reached 


of  a  recent  fire  that  destroyed  a  number  of  buJldings, 
and  reached  the  narrow  way  that  answered  for  a 
street,  in  which  "twa  wheelbarrows  tremble  when 
they  meet."  Thence  we  fared  forth,  like  iEueas  at 
Carthage,  to  explore  the  stranger  clime,  and  find  what 
land  this  might  be,  and  by  what  inhabitants  possessed. 
To  accomplish  this  the  more  intelligently,  we  repaired 
at  once  to  the  house  of  the  worthy  and  obliging  Town 
Clerk,  who  Iwought  out  the  records  and  put  us  in 
immediate  connection  with  both  the  present  and  the 
past,  adding  various  comments  at  the  same  time  on 
men  and  things.  Much  of  what  has  already  been 
given  of  the  history  of  Gosport  was  drawn  from  this 
valuable  repository,  which  brainless  visitors  of  these 
latter  days  have  sought  to  render  still  more  precious, 
by  entrusting  to  its  keeping  their  autographs,  with 
remarks. 

Having  taken  numerous  notes,  we  threaded  our 
way  to  the  old  meeting-house,  concerning  which  the 
records  have  considerable  to  say.  We  found  the 
minister  there,  with  his  coat  off,  trowel  in  hand,  and 
hard  at  work  making  repairs.  We  bade  him  good 
morrow,  and  made  bold  to  say  that  we  hoped  he 
was  not  daubing  with  "  untempered  mortar ;"  which 
he  trowed  not,  as  it  was  Roman  cement.  Thus  easily 
we  made  one  another's  acquaintance,  after  which  he 
swung  open  the  door  and  invited  us  to  enter,  showing 
at  the  same  time  the  new  floor  which  he  had  laid  down, 
the  seats  he  had  refitted,  and  the  neat  chairs  that  he  had 


.4' 


:.'  "ijaawiiiftWiliiifiil 


•42 


The  Isles  of  Shoals, 


I  I 


!l  'I 


/I"  1 


made  for  the  pulpit,  all  of  which  showed  that,  like  the 
great  Paul,  he  could  labor  with  his  own  hands.  This 
good  and  worthy  man  came  here  originally  for  the 
benefit  of  his  health,  and  has  since  remained  for  the 
most  of  the  time,  serving  the  islanders,  not  only  as 
their  minister,  but  as  physician,  general  adviser  and 
friend.  The  structure  is  a  quaint  one.  The  tip  of 
the  spire  is  forty-two  feet  from  the  ground,  and  may 
be  seen  at  a  distance  of  twenty-five  miles.  The  build- 
ing is  richly  in  keeping  with  everything  on  the  island. 
Its  little  bell  hanging  in  the  belfry  calls  the  children 
to  school  and  the  people  to  church,  though  the  school 
is  now  held  in  a  separate  building.  The  weathercock 
is  also  worth  noticing.  When  put  up,  an  entry  was 
made  in  the  records,  noting  that  the  people  found  it 
expensive,  and  adding  the  pious,  and  slightly  poetical, 
remark :  "  May  their  own  hearts  yield  to  the  breath- 
ings of  the  Divine  Spirit  as  that  vane  does  to  the 
winds." 

Leaving  this  venerable  pln^^  we  went  southward 
and  found  a  little  burial-ground  in  a  depression  of  the 
rocks.  It  had  been  prepared  with  much  labor  and 
pious  care.  The  earth  had  evidently  been  collected 
with  difficulty,  as  is  the  case  almost  everywhere  on 
the  isles.  Yet  there  appears  to  be  no  disposition  to 
hew  out  sepulchres  in  the  rocks.  Perhaps  they  ap- 
prove the  sentiment  of  that  prelate  who  said  with  his 
last  breath,  "  Bury  me  in  the  sunshine ;"  still  many 
of  the  fishermen  never  need  a  tomb,  as  they  suffer 
hydriotaphia  in  the  sea. 


The  Isles  of  Shoals, 


4.3 


"We  next' turned  toward  the  monument  to  Captain 
John  Smith.  This  time  we  felt  sure  of  our  ground, 
though  what  made  us  so  positive  was  not  the  inscrip- 
tion, which  in  the  glaring  light  we  could  hardly 
decipher,  but  it  was  argued  from  the  three  heads  tip- 
ping the  corners  of  the  capital  of  a  triangular  marble 
column  that  rested  on  a  pedestal  of  gneiss ;  for  did  not 
Captain  John  Smith  relieve  three  Turks  of  their  cra- 
nial appendages  on  one  occasion  in  single  combat? 
At  least  he  supposed  that  he  did,  and  to  commemorate 
the  event  named  three  islands  off  Cape  Ann  the  Three 
Turks'  Heads.  The  name  did  not  stick,  but  his  ad- 
mirers have  come  to  the  rescue,  and  tricked  out  the 
story  in  solid  marble.  It  is  to  be  hoped  that  the  story 
of  that  adventure  is  not  quite  so  apocryphal  as  his 
"  discovery"  of  these  isles.  Still,  since  the  iconoclast 
has  robbed  us  of  the  romantic  story  of  Pocahontas,  we 
must  receive  it  with  care. 

From  the  general  appearance  of  this  monument,  we 
might  imagine  that  a  committee  of  the  subjects  of  the 
Sublime  Porte  had  conspired  to  make  our  hero  ridicu- 
lous, out  of  revenge  for  the  slaughter  inflicted  upon 
their  ancestors ;  yet  instead  of  being  the  work  of  three 
vindictive  Turks,  it  appears  to  have  originated  from 
an  equal  number  of  respectable  Christians.  To  save 
the  visitor  from  the  purgatorial  task  of  deciphering 
the  inscriptions,  I  will  put  them  into  legible  print. 
On  one  side  we  read  : 

"John  Smith  was  born  at  Willoughby,  Linconshire, 


^':-M 


li 


% 


•  'Mi 


■■Ttff' 


)''! 


44 


The  Isles  of  Shoals. 


England,  in  1579,  and  died  in  London  iu  1G31,  aged 
62  years.  He  was  Governor  of  Virginia,  and  subse- 
quently Admiral  of  New  England.  These  Isles  [im?] 
properly  called  Smith's  Isles,  were  discovered  by  him 
in  April,  1614,  while  with  eight  others,  in  an  open 
boat,  he  was  exploring  the  coast  from  Penobscot  to 
Cape  Cod." 

On  another  we  are  told  that, 

"  Capt.  John  Smith  was  one  of  'nature's  noblemen.* 
In  his  generosity  toward  the  public  he  almost  forgot 
himself;  those  who  knew  him  best  loved  him  most, 
and  say  of  him :  *  In  all  his  proceedings  he  made 
virtue  his  first  guide,  and  experience  his  second ; 
despising  baseness,  sloth,  pride,  and  indignity,  more 
than  any  dangers ;  he  would  never  allow  more  for 
himself  than  for  his  soldiers,  and  to  no  danger  would 
he  expose  them  which  he  would  not  share  himself. 
He  would  never  see  any  in  want  of  what  he  had,  or 
could  get  for  them  ;  he  would  rather  want  than  bor- 
row, or  starve  than  not  pay ;  he  loved  action  more 
than  words,  and  hated  covetousness  and  falsehood 
more  than  death  ;  his  adventures  were  for  their  lives, 
and  his  loss  was  their  deaths.' " 

The  third  face  testifies, 

"  In  reward  of  his  valor,  the  Prince  of  Transylvania 
presented  to  Captain  John  Smith  his  picture  set  in 
gold,  gave  him  a  pension  of  300  ducats,  and  granted 
him  a  coat-of-arms  bearing  three  Turks*  heads  in  ft 
shield  with  the  motto  :  *  Vincere  est  vivere.*    In  1627, 


Is. 


*        V 


The  Isles  of  Shoals. 


45 


Smith  says  :  *  I  have  spent  five  years  and  more  than 
500  pounds  in  the  seivice  of  Virginia  and  New  Eng- 
land, but  in  neither  have  I  one  foot  of  land,  nor  the 
very  house  I  built  with  my  own  hands,  and  am  com- 
pelled to  see  those  countries  shared  before  me  among 
those  who  knew  them  only  by  my  descriptions/  Con- 
sideration of  the  interesting  facts  of  his  life  has  led  to 
the  erection  of  this  monument,  A.  D.  1864." 

Such  is  the  monument  that  the  New  World  gives 
to  the  heroic  and  magnanimous  Captain  John  Smith. 
This  is  the  unkindest  cut  of  all.  Better  far  would 
have  been  a  simple  cairn.  As  one  of  the  explorers 
of  New  England,  he  did  good  service,  although  antici- 
pated by  Champlain,  who  has  the  frior  right  to  a 
monument.  His  career,  when  stripped  of  all  fiction, 
still  presents  sufficient  to  admire,  and  in  whatever 
aspect  he  may  be  viewed  he  will  always  appear  as  a 
remarkable  man.  He  deserved  something  better  than 
this ;  built,  too,  upon  the  mainland,  where  his  dis- 
coveries lay,  and  upon  which  he  unquestionably  trod. 
But  he  can  afford  to  wait. 

Beyond  this  place  is  found  what  is  called  Miss 
Underwood's  Rock,  named  after  the  teacher  of  the 
school,  who  while  sitting  here  reading  a  book  was 
swept  off  by  a  wave.  No  less  than  three  young  girls 
have  since  perished  at  the  same  place.  Every  one 
who  comes  here  wishes  to  know  how  it  occurred.  Let 
them  in  future  restrain  their  curiosity  and  keep  away 
from  the  booming  surf. 


I 

11 


^^1 


■    !. 


46 


The  Isles  of  Shoals. 


Some  distance  to  the  eastward  is  a  huge  rift  called 
"  Betty  Moody's  Cave."  It  is  said  that  in  the  French 
war,  when  the  Indians  were  committing  depredations 
all  along  the  coast,  one  Betty  Moody  here  secreted 
herself  and  children  from  the  wrath  of  the  savages. 
I  give  it,  however,  as  a  tradition,  unsupported  by  con- 
temporaneous authorities. 

Another  story  is  also  told  in  regard  to  a  minister  of 
the  same  name,  who  preached  to  the  islanders.  It 
appears  that  one  of  their  fishing  boats  had  been  lost 
with  the  entire  crew,  in  Ipswich  Bay.  During  a 
sermon,  in  which  Mr.  Moody  sought  to  "  improve " 
upon  this  sad  event,  he  said :  "  Supposing,  my  breth- 
ren, any  of  you  should  be  overtaken  in  the  bay  by  a 
north-east  storm,  your  hearts  trembling  with  fear,  and 
nothing  before  you  but  death,  whither  would  your 
thoughts  turn?  what  would  you  do?"  To  this  he 
received  the  unexpected  reply  from  an  old  sailor, 
who,  unable  to  repress  himself,  promptly  said:  "I 
would  hoist  tfco  foresail  and  scud  away  for  Squam ! " 

In  this  vicinity  the  rocks  are  fine  and  the  shore 
bold,  its  outline  forming  the  letter  M  with  its  top  to 
the  islands,  not  a  foot  of  land  now  intervening  be- 
tween us  and  the  Old  World ;  yet  we  did  not  delay, 
but  returned  through  the  village  and  went  to  the 
north-west  end  of  the  island  to  view  the  remains  of 
an  old  fort.  On  the  way,  we  passed  another  burial 
ground,  from  which  it  appears  that  here  the  living 
are  less  numerous  than  the  dead.    It  is  generally  the 


lied 
inch 
ions 
eted 
iges. 
con- 
fer of 

I.    It 
a  lost 
ing   a 
rove" 
breth- 
^by  a 
ir,  and 
1  your 
this  he 
sailor, 


T/ie  Isles  of  Shoals, 


47 


case  with  islands ;  however  fruitful  in  material  pro- 
ducts, they  consume  more  than  they  yield;  and  if 
prolific  as  cradles,  they  are  more  bountiful  as  graves. 
But  let  us  not  meditate  among  the  tombs. 

The  fort  alluded  to  was  in  condition  prior  to  the 
Revolution,  and  mounted  nine  four-pounders.  When 
the  war  broke  out  they  were  removed  to  the  main 
land.  The  work  was  constructed  chiefly  of  stone,  and 
could  not  have  had  very  high  walls.  It  was  about 
fifty  feet  square.  Here  is  where  the  Cross  of  King 
George  floated  in  colonial  times,  when  the  people 
paid  all  due  respect  to  the  reigning  power.  One  of 
the  last  entries  in  the  record  book,  prior  to  the  dis- 
persion of  the  people,  is  dated  March  11,  1775.  I 
give  it  verbatim:  "For  histing  the  flag  to  Henry 
Andres,  20s."  This  was  probably  the  final  wages  of 
loyalty,  for  in  a  few  weeks  New  England  was  fairly 
rocked  by  revolution. 

We  went  thence  toward  the  landing  again,  passing 
on  the  way  a  fish-house  that  had  been  decorated  with 
evergreen  from  the  mainland,  preparatory  to  holding 
a  fair  for  the  benefit  of  the  school.  The  profusion  of 
young  forest  trees,  with  which  the  place  was  decorated, 
led  us  to  think  that  Birnam*s  wood  had  come  to 
Dunsinane.  Afterwards  we  rambled  among  the 
houses,  and  noticed  a  hotel  in  process  of  erection  to 
take  the  place  of  an  old  one  destroyed  by  fire.  At 
the  same  time  we  suddenly  hiard  a  great  shouting  on 
the  beach,  which  was  taken  up  elsewhere,  until  all 


i:? 

(- 


48 


The  Isles  of  Shoals, 


Gosport  rang  with  a  hue  and  a  cry,  ending  with  a  gen- 
eral rush  of  old  and  young  for  the  boats.  At  first  we 
thought  that  the  island  was  going  down,  or  at  least 
that  a  school  of  porjjoises  had  entered  the  cove  ;  but 
ultiniately  it  appeared  that  the  uproar  was  caused  by 
ths  arrival  of  a  steamer  from  Newburyport,  loaded 
with  excursionists.  In  the  ears  of  the  Shoalites,  the 
music  of  the  brass  band  was  of  itself  inspiring,  but 
then  what  was  all  this  compared  with  the  five  hundred 
dimes  prospectively  placed  in  their  empty  pockets  ? 
In  their  financial  economy,  it  was  as  reviving  as  rain 
upon  the  parched  earth.  Accordingly  every  boy  who 
could  paddle  a  tub,  put  off  from  shore,  the  Town 
Clerk  among  the  rest,  with  his  yawl,  the  fleet  of  boats 
appearing  around  the  great  steamer,  like  so  many 
minnows  around  a  whale.  Soon  the  whole  party  was 
safely  put  ashore,  and  went  trooping  among  the  rocks 
to  find  Betty  Moody's  Cave,  and  inaugurate  a  great 
day  in  Gosport. 

As  for  ourselves,  we  quietly  rowed  to  Haley's 
Island,  or  Smutty-Nose,  distant  one-fourth  of  a  mile. 
Approaching  the  landing,  we  noticed  a  large  brown 
house  with  the  word  "  Hotell"  painted  in  huge  let- 
ters on  one  end.  At  the  landing  is  a  wharf,  on  the 
east  side  of  which  there  is  room  for  a  couple  of  vessels 
that  are  protected  on  the  east  side  by  a  stone  wall, 
which  also  connects  a  detached  portion  of  the  isle 
with  Smutty  Nose.  In  tnis  inclosed  situation  a  vessel 
is  safe  in  the  heaviest  gale.    This  was  built  by  the 


ff 


;en- 

we 
east 

but 
I  by 
aded 
,  the 
,  but 
idred 
kets? 
}  rain 
f  who 
Town 
F  boats 

many 
ty  was 
3  rocks 
great 


T/ie  Isles  of  Shoals. 


49 


person  after  whom  the  island  was  formerly  called. 
How  it  obtained  its  present  name  I  could  not  learn. 
The  "  Hotell "  did  not  wear  a  very  inviting  appear- 
ance, and  we  passed  by  and  went  on  a  stroll  over  the 
island,  where  we  found  considerable  grass  land.  In  an 
unenclosed  space  was  the  grave  of  the  builder  of  the 
dock.  A  plain  stone  bore  the  following  rude  inscrip- 
tion : 

"  In  memory  of  Mr.  Saml.  Haley,  who  died  Feby 
7th.  1811  Aged  84.  He  was  a  man  of  great  ingenu- 
ity, Industry,  Honor  &  honesty,  true  to  his  country 
&  A  man  who  did  A  great  publik  good  in  Building  A 
Dock  &  Receiving  into  his  inclosure  many  a  poor  dis- 
tressed Seaman  &  Fisherman  in  distress  of  Weather." 

Near  by  may  also  be  seen  the  Spaniards'  Graves, 
where  lie  the  remains  of  fourteen  shipwrecked  sailors, 
each  marked  by  a  rude  stone.  It  is  to  their  fate  that 
Whittier  refers  when  he  brings  forward  his  old  fisher- 
man, lean  as  a  cusk  from  Labrador,  who  told  of 
wrecks  and  storms,  had  seen  the  sea-serpent, 


i 


If 


'  (  t 


if         I 


"And  heard tho  ghosts  on  Haley's  Isle  complain. 
Speak  him  offshore,  and  beg  a  passage  to  old  Spain." 

Of  the  islanders,  nothing  definite  could  be  learned 
about  this  affair ;  but,  in  searching  the  records  of 
Gosport,  I  found  the  following  entry : 

"  Ship  Sagunto  Strand*^**  on  Smotinosello  Janyi4 — 
1813.  Jan^  15  one  man  foun  16*^  6  mend  found  21 — 
7    the  Number  of  men  yet  found  Belonging  to  said 

4 


50 


The  Isles  of  Shoals. 


ship  twelve."      The  scribe  dropped  two  in  his  ad- 
dition. 

From  some  old  newspapers  of  the  day,  it  appears 
that  this  ship  was  from  Cadiz,  loaded  with  provisions, 
and  commanded  by  a  Captain  Don.  She  went  to 
pieces  soon  after  stranding,  and  a  portion  of  the  cargo, 
consisting  of  nuts  and  raisins,  was  thrown  upon  the 
shore,  together  with  bales  of  clothing  made  of  broad- 
cloth. It  was  also  believed  that  the  ship  contained 
considerable  money,  as  gold  and  silver  coins  were 
washed  out  upon  the  shore.  The  ship  was  of  three  or 
four  hundred  tons  capacity,  built  of  cedar  and  mahog- 
any, and  very  old.  One  account  says  that,  "  Much 
.ci'edit  is  due  to  the  inhabitants  of  these  barren  rocks 
for  their  instantaneous  launching  forth  their  boats  in 
a  violent  snow  storm,  the  moment  they  discovered  the 
wreck,  in  hope  of  being  able  to  rescue  from  a  watery 
grave  the  crew  of  the  ship."     Mrs.  Thaxter  writes  : 


"  O  sailors,  did  sweet  eyes  look  after  you, 

The  day  you  sailed  away  from  suuny  Spaiu  f 
Bright  eyes  that  followed  fadiug  ship  and  crew, 

Melting  in  tender  rain  f 

Did  no  one  dream  of  that  drear  night  to  be. 

Wild  with  the  wind,  fierce  with  the  stinging  snow, 
When,  on  yon  granite  point  that  Irets  the  sea, 

Tho  ship  met  her  death-blow  f 


Fifty  long  years  ago  these  sailors  died  : 

(None  know  how  many  sleep  beneath  the  waves :) 
Fourteen  gray  headstones,  rising  side  by  side, 

Point  out  their  nameless  graves,- 


M 


The  Isles  of  Shoals,  51 

Lonely,  unknown,  deserted,  but  for  rae, 

And  tho  Avild  birds  that  flit  with  mournful  cry, 
And  sadder  winds,  and  voices  of  tho  eea 

That  moans  perpetually. 

Wives,  mothers,  maidens,  wistlblly,  in  vain 

Questioned  the  distance  for  the  yearning  sail. 
That,  leaning  landward,  should  have  stretched  again 

White  arms  wide  on  tho  gale, 

To  bring  back  their  beloved.    Year  by  year, 

Weary  they  watched,  till  youth  and  beauty  passed. 
And  lustrous  eyes  grew  dim,  and  ago  drew  near, 

And  hopo  was  dend^at  last. 

Still  summer  broods  o'er  that  delicious  land, 

Rich,  fragrant,  warm  with  skies  of  golden  glow: 
Live  any  yet  of  that  forsaken  band 

Who  loved  so  long  ago? 

O  Spanish  women,  over  the  far  seas. 

Could  I  but  show  you  where  your  dead  repose! 
Could  I  send  tidings  on  this  northern  breeze. 

That  strong  and  steady  blows! 

Dear  dark-eyed  sisters,  you  remember  yet 

These  you  have  lost,  but  you  can  never  know 
Ono  stands  at  their  bleak  graves  whose  eyes  aro  wet 

With  thinking  of  your  woo!  " 

This  island  is  half  a  mile  long  and  less  in  width. 
The  land  is  flat.  On  the  western  part  there  is  consid- 
erable good  grass.  A  woman  by  the  name  of  Pusley 
died  here  in  1795.  She  kept  two  cows  somewhere 
on  one  of  the  isles,  and  cut  in  the  summer  all  the 
hay  they  needed  in  winter  with  a  knife.  The  poor 
woman's  cows  were  taken  by  the  British  in  1775  and 
killed.  To  their  credit  we  must  add  that  they  paid 
for  them.     ItT  is  related,  however,  that  she  was  in- 


f  ^v 


■li 


I.' 


jiih 


I    i 


W' 


! 


I!ll 


I     11 

'I    ill  III' 


52 


T/ie  Isles  of  Shoals, 


coiisolable.  The  cattle  and  sheep  do  very  well  here 
now. 

There  are  only  a  few  buildings  on  the  island, 
though  once  they  boasted  of  an  academy ;  and  it  is 
said,  though  I  cannot  verify  the  report,  that  at  an 
early  period  students. came  here  from  the  mainland  to 
pursue  their  studies.  Possibly  they  came  as  well  to 
save  their  scalps  as  to  improve  the  region  situated 
underneath. 

And  speaking  of  houses  reminds  me  of  another 
story,  to  the  effect  that  a  storm  once  carried  away  one 
of  the  houses  entire  to  Cape  Cod,  where  it  was  tossed 
up  on  terra  Jirma.  They  learned  where  it  came  from 
by  some  papers  preserved  in  a  box.  It  is  an  excel- 
lent story,  at  least. 

This  is  a  pleasant,  sunny  island  where  rambling 
will  be  found  pleasant,  even  though  the  historical 
associations  are  of  less  interest  than  at  Gosport. 

As  we  returned  to  Appledore  the  yacht  Celia  was 
just  leaving  for  Portsmouth,  and  the  Brothers  Laighton 
were  giving  a  parting  salute  with  the  bell  and  horn,  the 
latter  an  instrument  about  three  feet  long,  which  can 
at  least  boast  of  some  power.  We  pitied  from  the 
bottom  of  our  hearts  the  poor  wights  who  were  now 
returning  to  the  world ;  but  soon  got  over  our  con- 
cern for  them  and  "sadly  thought  of  the  morrow" — 
the  morrow,  fated  day — when  we,  too,  must  bid  fare- 
well to  these  sunny  isles  and  in  turn  become  the 
objects  of  commisseration. 


>** 


The  hies  of  Shoals, 


53 


Thus  the  bright  days  pass  at  the  Isles  of  Shoals. 
After  the  round  has  thus  been  gone  through,  it  then 
remains  to  be  gone  through  again  with  variations, 
each  time  meeting  some  new  view  or  odd  adventure. 
For  those  fond  of  studying  marine  flora,  there  are 
unbounded  facilities.  At  low  water,  in  a  sunny  day, 
drift  in  your  boat  along  past  the  northwest  point  of 
Star  Island,  at  the  right  distance  from  the  rocks,  and 
observe,  far  down,  the  beautiful  groves  of  waving 
fronds  that  fill  this  watery  world,  with  the  perch  as 
tame  as  kittens,  feeding  upon  salads  of  bright  green 
sea-lettuce.  By  dredging  we  shall  find  that  each  suc- 
cessive depth  has  its  peculiarities.  There  are  zones 
on  the  mountains  under  the  water,  along  those  dim 
slopes  that  descend  to  the  ocean's  lowest  depths,  as 
well  as  on  the  heights  above.  If  we  could  descend, 
what  marvels  should  we  behold  !  Tliere  the  carnival 
of  color  is  perpetual,  running  riotously  through  the 
whole  chromatic  scale,  while  the  deep-sea  fruits  are 
ever  ripening  on  their  graceful  stems.  We  have  an 
earnest  of  what  we  might  expect,  both  in  the  gorgeous 
coloring  of  the  mosses  that  the  waves  toss  upon  the 
beach,  and  in  the  "  salt  lemons  and  oranges  that  come 
up  on  the  dredge." 

The  flora  upon  the  land  is  also  more  promising 
than  it  may  appear  at  first  sight.  It  is  tolerably  well 
catalogued  in  another  poem  by  Mrs.  Thaxter,  entitled 
"  Rockweeds." 


W 


jismu 


KB 


54 


T/te  Isles  of  Shoals, 


'So  bloftk  Uiese  shores,  wfnd-swcpt,  and  all  the  year 
Waahed  by  the  wild  Atlantio^s  roRtless  tide, 
You  would  not  dream  that  flowers  the  woods  hold  dear 
Amid  such  desolation  dare  abide. 

Yet  when  the  bitter  winter  breaks,  some  day, 
With  soft  winds  fluttering  her  garments'  hem, 

dp  from  the  sweet  South  comes  the  lingering  May, 
Bets  tiie  firrt  wind  flower  trembling  ur  lbs  ntcm. 

Boattors  her  violets  with  lavish  hands, 
Wi  ite,  blue,  and  amber ;  calls  the  columVine 

Till,  1  ko  clear  flame  in  lonely  nooks,  gay  bands 
Swinging  their  scarlet  belld  obey  the  sign ; 

ICakes  buttercups  and  dandelions  blaze, 
And  throws  in  glimmering  patches  "here  and  there 

The  little  eycbright's  pearls,  and  gently  lays 
The  impress  of  her  beauty  everywhere. 


Later,  Jane  bids  the  sweet  wild-rose  to  blow, 
"Wakes  from  its  dream  the  drowsy  pimpernel ; 

Unfolds  the  bindweed's  ivory  buds,  that  glow 
As  delicately  blushing  as  a  shell. 

Then  purple  Iris  smiles ;  and  hour  by  hour 
The  fair  procession  multiplies ;  and  soon 

In  clusters  creamy  white,  the  elder  flower 
Waves  its  broad  disk  against  the  rising  moon. 

O'er  quiet  beaches  shelving  to  the  sea 
Tall  mulleins  sway,  and  thistles ;  all  day  long 

Comes  in  the  wooing  water  dreamily. 
With  subtle  mu»io  in  its  slumbrous  song. 


Herb-Robert  hears,  and  princess-feather  bright, 
Wliile  goldthread  clasps  the  little  sktill-cap  bine  ; 

And  troops  of  swallows,  gathering  for  their  flight. 
O'er  golden  rod  and  asters  hold  review. 


'  ■  ■■*'] 


The  Isles  of  Shoals. 


55 


The  btirron  island  droiims  in  flowcra,  while  blow 
The  Bonth  winds,  drawing  haze  o'er  sea  and  land ; 

Yet  the  great  heart  of  ocean,  throbbing  slow. 
Makes  the  frail  blossoms  visible  where  they  stand. 

And  hints  of  heavier  pulses  soon  to  shake 
Its  mighty  breast  when  summer  is  no  more, 

Wlien  devastating  waves  swoop  on  and  break, 
And  qlosp  with  girdle  white  the  iron  shore. 

Close-folded,  safe  within  the  sheltering  seed. 
Blossom  and  boll  and  leafy  beauty  hide ; 

Nor  icy  blast  nor  bitter  spray  they  heed, 
But  patiently  their  wondrous  change  abide. 

The  heart  of  God  through  his  creation  stirs ; 

We  thrill  to  feel  it,  trembling  as  the  flowers 
That  die  to  live  again, — ^his  messengers 

To  keep  faith  Arm  in  these  sad  souls  of  onm. 


Ifl 


The  waves  of  Time  may  devastate  our  lives. 
The  frosts  of  age  may  check  our  failing  brcatb  ; 

They  shall  not  touch  the  spirit  that  survives 
Triumphant  over  doubt  and  pain  and  death.** 


li.  \\ 


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1 


COAST    OF    £SS£X, 

CHAPTEB   IV. 

Salisbuuy  —  ^Merrimack  River  —  Newburyport  —  Plum 
Island  —  How  ley  —  Ipswich  —  Essex  —  Cape  Ann. 

RAVELLERS  approaching  the  coast  of 
Essex  County,  Massachusetts,  will  expe- 
I  rience  no  diminution  of  interest.  This 
I  chapter,  however,  will  include  no  more  of 
the  territory  than  is  embraced  in  the  region  between 
Salisbury  and  Ca])e  Ann. 

Leaving  the  New  Hampshire  line,  we  enter  East 
Salisbury,  thirty-eight  miles  from  Boston,  The  East- 
ern Railroad  leaves  tourists  who  travel  by  land  within 
two  miles  of  the  famous  Salisbury  Beach,  where  the 
Atlantic  House  (for  what  is  a  beach  without  an 
"  Atlantic  "  or  "  Ocean  "  house  ?)  affords  uccommo- 
dations  for  hundreds  of  guests,  who  are  annually 
attracted  to  this  "beautiful  and  healthful  place.  In  this 
town  was  born  Abagail  Eastman,  the  mother  of  Dan- 
iel Webster.  The  beach,  extending  from  the  Hamp- 
ton to  the  Merrimack  River,  contains  about  six  miles 
of  sand,  and  is  reached  by  a  plank  road.  Having 
gained  the  beach,  we  find  that  Nature  has  laid  her 
own  planks,  or  the  equivalent. 


Coast  of  Essex. 


S7 


In  his  poem  on  the  Merrimack  River,  Whittier 
suggests  the  view  that  is  had  from  this  point.  The 
island  alluded  to  is  Plum  Island,  whose  northern  end 
lies  opposite.  The  poet,  speaking  of  early  voyagers 
to  the  coast,  says : 


hin 
iho 
an 
mo- 


"  Centuries  ago,  that  harbor  bar 
Stretching  its  length  of  foam  afar, 
And  Salisbury  Beach  of  shininz  sand 
And  yonder  island's  wave-smoothed  strand, 
Saw  the  adventurer's  tiny  sail 
Flit,  stooping  ftoxa.  the  eastern  gale." 

Having  left  Salisbury,  the  rambler  may  cross  the 
Merrimack,  or,  better,  ascend  it.  In  doing  so,  he 
should  take  along  Thoreau's  book  on  the  Concord  and 
Merrimack  Rivers,  a  work  abounding  in  interesting 
information,  He  may  also  look  at  Whittier's  poem 
on  the  Northmen,  who  visited  New  England  in  the 
tenth  and  eleventh  centuries.  The  Bard  is  pleased  to 
send  them  on  an  excursion  up  this  stream,  which  they 
may  or  may  not  have  visited.     He  writes  : 

*'  Onward  they  glide,  and  now  I  view 
Their  iron-armed  and  stalwart  crew; 
Joy  glistens  in  each  wild  blue  eye, 
Turned  to  green  earth  and  summer  sky; 
Each  broad,  seamed  breast  has  cast  aside 
Its  cuml)ering  vest  of  shaggy  hide ; 
Bared  to  the  sun  and  soft  warm  air, 
Streams  back  the  Norseman's  yellow  hair." 

The  name  of  the  river  is  of  Indian  origin.  De 
Monts,  1604-5,  says  that  the  Indians  spo|te  to  him 


n- 


ii 


,l.l!| 


58 


Coast  of  Essex. 


about  a  beautiful  river,  far  tv^  the  South,  culled 
"  Merrimack." 

Newburyport  is  a  city  every  way  worth  visiting. 
Its  local  histories  will  afford  much  entertainment  to 
the  visitor  who  has  the  time  to  examine  them  on  the 
ground.  The  place  is  happily  situated,  and  well  laid 
out.  Time  would  fail  us  to  tell  its  quaint  story,  and 
we  must  pass  it  by,  reminding  the  reader  that  here 
was  the  home  of  the  eccentric  Timothy  Dexter,  author 
of  "Pickle  for  Knowing  Ones;"  and  that  here,  under 
the  Old  South  Church,  repose  the  ashes  of  the  great 
Whitefield.  The  situation  is  not  elevated,  yet  Aga- 
menticus  can  be  seen  from  this  place,  which  possesses 
the  customary  appendages  of  an  old  New  England 
town  of  thirteen  thousand  inhabitants. 

For  the  purposes  of  our  present  work,  barren  Plum 
Island  is  of  more  account  than  well-shaded  Newbury- 
port. In  fact,  what  would  the  city  be  without  the 
island?  Not  one  half  so  attractive,  certainly.  The 
place  is  easily  reached,  both  by  boat  and  carriage. 

Plum  Island  bears  north  and  south,  and  is  nine 
miles  long  and  less  than  one  mile  wide.,  It  is  included 
in  the  towns  of  Newburyport,  Rowley  and  Ipswich  ; 
and  is  composed  of  sand  drifted  by  the  wind  into  dunes 
of  various  forms  and  heights.  S  lys  the  author  of 
the  history  of  Newburyport : 

"  There  is  no  native  of  Newburyport,  and  scarcely 
a  stranger  that  has  visited  our  city  in  the  summer  time, 
who  does  not  retain  vivid  recollections  of  this  fantastic 


Coast  of  Essex, 


59 


strip  of  land.  To  the  minds  of  most,  its  associations 
and  its  social  gathering  of  friends,  of  sea-side  picnics 
with  home  companions  and  stranger  guests ;  the  eye 
recalls  the  sandy  beach  dotted  with  tents,  the  cloth 
spread  on  the  clean  yellow  sand,  surrounded  with 
groups  of  young  men  and  maidens,  old  men  and  chil- 
dren, the  complacent  pastor  and  the  grave  deacon,  all 
enjoying  together  a  day  of  unrestrained  mirth  and 
healthful  recreation  ;  some  indulging  in  the  exuberance 
of  their  wild  delight  amid  the  waves  that  roll  their 
white  crests  to  the  feet  of  the  more  timid  watchers, 
and  others  preparing  the  gondola  for  a  return  home, 
knocking  away  the  poles  that  support  the  tents,  or 
packing  up  the  fragments  of  the  feast  preparatory  to 
stowing  them  in  the  carriage,  wagon  or  boat,  that  is 
waiting  to  carry  the  party  home,  just  as  the  sun  is  set- 
ting behind  the  western  hills.  Thousands  think  of 
just  such  scenes  as  these  when  they  see  Plum  Island, 
but  there  is  another  picture  with  a  darker  shade  which 
comes  between  the  eye  and  the  heart  at  the  mention 
of  Plum  Island.  They  are  some  to  whom  that  name 
recalls  a  dark  stormy  night — the  heavy  moanuig  of 
the  sea — a  bark  vainly  striving  to  clear  the  breakers — 
blinding  snow — a  slippery  deck — stiff  and  glazed 
ropes — hoarse  commands  that  the  cruel  winds  seize 
and  carry  away  far  1  -^i  the  ear  of  the  sailor — a  crash 
of  tons  of  water  beating  in  the  hatches — shrieks  which 
no  man  heard,  and  ghastly  corpses  on  the  deceitful, 
shifting  sauds,    and  the  great    ocean  cemetery,  still 


f  41 


^i 


I  III 


60 


Coast  of  Essex. 


holding  ill  awful  silence  the  lost  bodies  of  the 
dead." 

Turning  from  these  sad  memories,  however,  the  tour- 
ist will  incline,  if  he  comes  in  September,  to  gather  the 
beach  plums  which  here  abound.  There  is  also  the 
hotel  and  the  lighthouse  at  the  northern  end. 

The  next  town  on  the  coast  is  Rowleji,  which,  like 
many  other  places,  boasts  of  its  "  Devil's  Den." 
Asbestos,  garnets  and  other  minerals  are  found  in  the 
limestone.  It  is  thirty-one  miles  from  Boston  by  rail. 
In  the  history  of  the  town  we  have  an  account  of  the 
very  remarkable  adventures  and  final  escape  of  two 
men  who,  in  1786,  went  adrift  on  a  hay-stack.  In 
the  old  burial  ground  we  have  the  following  on  the 
tombstone  of  one  Captain  Broadstreet : 

"  Friends  &  relations, 
Tou  might  behold, 
A  Iamb  of  Qod 
Fitt  for  the  fold." 

We  next  stop  at  Ipswich,  twenty-seven  miles  from 
Boston,  where  the  Agawam  House  opens  its  hos- 
pitable doors.  Here  we  get  OTir  last  glimpse  of  Aga- 
menticus,  in  passing  southward,  and  at  the  same  time 
appreciate  something  of  the  beauty  of  the  promontory 
of  Cape  Ann. 

Landward  the  view  is  also  very  fine.  Plum  Island 
lies  oflf  the  shore.  White  men  visited  the  coast  at  a 
very  early  date.  The  last  chief  of  the  Agawams  was 
Masconnomet,  whose  body,  after  having  been  buried  in 


■  "•■«»*«  '*tyim»-  :<«1  '«SW?8Sr 


Coast  of  Essex. 


6i 


state,  was  inhumanly  dug  up,  and  the  head  carried 
around  the  town  on  a  pole.  Here  may  be  found  the 
Indian  shell  heaps,  out  of  which  are  dug  stone  imple- 
ments and  other  antiquities.  Captain  John  Smith 
came  here  in  1614,  and  wrote:  "This  place  might 
content  a  right  curious  iudgment ;  but  there  are  many 
sands  at  the,  entrance  of  the  harbour,  and  the  worst 
is,  it  is  imbayed  too  farre  from  the  deepe  sea."  His 
view  was  correct,  and  therefore  Ipswich  is  a  pleasant 
summer  resort,  instead  of  a  large  commercial  town. 
The  seashore  affords  many  fine  views  and  at  evening 
suggests  thoughts  like  the  following : 


t| 
'I 


"  But  look!— the  yellow  light  no  more 
Streams  down  on  wave  and  verdant  shore; 
And  clearly  on  the  calm  air  swells 
The  twilight  voice  of  distant  bells. 
From  Ocean's  bosom,  white  and  thin, 
The  mists  come  slowly  rolling  in ; 
Hills,  woods,  and  river's  rocky  rim 
Amidst  the  soa-Iike  vapour  swim, 
While  yonder  lonely  coast-light  set 
Within  its  wave-washed  minaret. 
Half  quenched,  a  beamless  star  and  pale 
Shines  dimly  through  its  cloudy  vale." 


If 


'■li 


Sland 

lat  a 

was 

led  in 


Essex,  on  the  border  of  Cape  Ann,  is  a  place  not 
often  written  about,  but  nevertheless  appreciated.  It 
is  an  ancient  place,  once  a  parish  of  Ipswich,  and 
called  Chebacco,  and  was  formerly  devoted  to  the  fish- 
eries. Of  late  years  attention  has  been  turned  to 
ship-building.  In  speaking  of  this  place,  we  employ 
the  language  of  another  writer  as  follows : 


62 


Coast  of  Essex. 


"  Do  you  desire  to  see  a  beautiful  toWn,  and  people 
living  in  peace  and  primitive  simplicity  ?  Why,  then, 
come  down  to  old  Chebacco  for  a  day  or  two.  You 
will  find  the  veritable  descendants  of  the  original  Pil- 
grims inhabiting  the  veritable  grounds  which  these 
good  men  received  from  the  English  King, — bearing 
their  names,  their  lineaments  ;  thinking  their  thoughts ; 
sustaining  their  principles,  [?]  and  realizing  their  ex- 
pectations. It  would  do  your  soul  and  body  good 
to  see  these  hardy  men  of  Essex,  to  observe  their 
thrift  and  industry,  and  to  hear  the  stories  which  they 
tell  of  their  exploits  on  the  deep,  or  of  the  olden 
times.  Or,  if  you  love  the  summer  breeze  and  the 
summer  beauty — if  you  love  to  gaze  on  scenery — 
varied,  picturesque,  enchanting — ascend  with  me 
*  White's  Hill,'  on  a  rosy  morning.  Turn  your  eye 
around  from  the  towers  of  distant  Ipswich  inland  to 
quiet  Rowley,  thence  over  hills  of  the  deepest  green 
to  the  silver  shimmering  of  the  beautiful  Chebacco,  as 
it  winds  among  the  vales  beneath  you ;  sco  it  gleam 
among  the  foliage  of  the  village  at  your  feet,  and  now, 
dotted  with  sails,  go  sparkling  in  the  early  beam  of 
day  to  mingle  gently  with  the  waters  of  the  ocean. 
The  spot  where  Chebacco  first  meets  your  eye  re- 
minds you  of 

'  That  vale  in  whose  bosom  the  bright  waters  meet;* 


and  at  the  confluence  of  this  beautiful  river  with  the 
ocean  just  before  you,  rises  the  rounded  form  of  '  Hog 


Coast  of  Essex. 


63 


Island,*  the  birth-place  of  Rufus  Choate,  prince  of 
orators.  But  come  and  see  the  boats  we  build.  None 
stauncher,  triiner,  fleeter  to  breast  the  wavea  of  ocean. 
Captain  Kane  had  the  good  sense  to  sail  from  the 
North  Pole  in  timber  })ut  together  in  Chebacco  River. 
Our  natural  curiosity  is  'Martin's  Rock,'  a  mass  of 
cloven  granite  blocks  piled  fantastically.'* 


i 


» \ 


f\' 


Jill 


1 


(   1^ 


'  •«!! 


'  I ' 


li'i 


I^S 


m 


CAPE    ANN, 

CHAPTER    V. 

Gloucester — Tragabigzanda— Annisquam  —The  Canal— 
The  Fisheries— Norman's  Woe  — Eockport  — Pigeon 
Cove  — The  Isles. 

|FTER  passing  the  interesting  town  of  Es- 
sex, situated  on  an  arm  of  Squam  Bay, 
we  turned  in  our  tour  to  Cape  Ann, 
entering  at  Gloucester.  Cape  Ann  is  what 
Captain  John  Smith  called  "  the  fair  headland  Traga- 
bigzanda fronted  with  three  isles  called  the  three  Turk's 
Heads."  Tragabigzanda  is  that  "sweetest"  name  to 
which  Whittier  alludes  below,  though  he  teaches  that 
Smith  landed  at  this  cape,  an  incident  that  is  not  record- 
ed in  history.    The  poet  says : 

•'  On  yonder  rocky  cape,  which  braves 
The  stormy  challenge  of  the  waves, 
'Mid  )t  tangled  vine  and  dwarfish  wood, 
The  hardy  Anglo-Saxon  stood, 
Planting  upon  the  topmost  crag 
The  Staff  of  England's  battle  flag; 
And,  while  from  out  its  heavy  fold 
Saint  George's  crimson  cross  unrolled,  , 
'Midst  roll  of  drum  and  trumpet's  blare 
And  weapons  brandishing  in  air, 
He  gave  to  that  lone  promontory 
The  iiweetest  name  in  all  his  story." 


■  'rmm^imf^^'^tm^' 


Cape  Ann. 


65 


Cape  Ann  embracns  the  towns  of  Gloucester  and 
Rockport,  being  divided  into  two  parts  by  Annisquam 
River,  an  arm  of  the  sea  extending  inward  from  Ips- 
wich Bay.  The  principal  harbor  is  on  the  south  side 
of  the  town,  being  formed  by  Eastern  Point.  The 
cape  is  about  nine  miles  long  and  six  wide. 

Annisquam  Harbor  is  a  haven  at  the  mouth  of  the 
river  bearing  that  name.  It  has  a  bar  at  the  entrance, 
and  is  difficult  of  access.  The  surface  is  uneven, 
the  highest  point  being  "  Thompson's  Mounta,in," 
which  is  only  fifty-five  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
sea.  Pigeon  Hill,  in  Rockport,  the  first  land  that  you 
see  coming  from  the  east,  is  not  so  high. 

The  project  of  a  cut  through  the  narrow  neck  of 
land  that  divides  Ipswich  Bay  from  Massachusetts  Bay, 
was  suggested  in  1638.  Endicott  was  directed  by  the 
General  Court  to  examine  its  feasibility.  In  1643  the 
town  voted  to  do  the  work,  and  the  canal  was  used  by 
vessels  desiring  to  avoid  the  passage  around  Cape  Ann, 
until  1704,  when  it  was  choked  up.  It  was  reopened 
in  1822,  but  was  soon  obstructed  again,  and  perma- 
nently filled. 

At  the  time  of  the  original  settlement.  Cape  Ann 
was  covered  with  forests.  But  few  trees  now  remain, 
and  the  landscape  wears  a  wild  and  rugged  aspect,  on 
account  of  the  rocks.  A  writer  in  the  Atlantic  Month- 
ly gives  the  following  picture  of  the  place : 

"  The  whole  ii^terior  of  Cape  Ann,  beyond  Glouces- 
ter, is  a  continuous   woodland,   with  granite   ledges 

5 


i'-. 


.V' 


}<m!I 


66 


Cape  Ann. 


everywhere  cropping  out,  around  which  the  high- 
road winds,  following  the  curving  and  indented  line  of 
the  sea,  and  dotted  here  and  there  with  fishing  ham- 
lets. This  whole  interior  is  traversed  t)y  a  network  of 
footpaths,  rarely  passable  for  any  wagon  and  not  al- 
ways for  a  horse,  but  enabling  the  pedestrian  to  go 
to  any  one  of  these  villages  to  any  other,  in  a  line  al- 
most direct,  and  always  under  an  agreeable  shade.  By 
the  longest  of  these  hidden  ways,  one  may  go  from 
Pigeon  Cove  to  Gloucester,  ten  miles,  without  seeing 
a  public  road.  In  the  little  inn  at  the  former  village 
there  used  to  hang  a  map  of  this  whole  forest  regions 
giving  a  chart  of  some  of  these  paths,  which  were  said 
to  date  back  to  the  fii'st  settlement  of  the  country. 
One  of  them,  for  instance,  was  called  '  Old  Road 
from  Sandy  Bay  to  Squam  meeting-house  through  the 
Woods ;'  but  the  road  is  now  scarcely  even  a  bridle- 
path, and  the  most  faithful  worshipper  could  not  seek 
Squam  meeting-house  in  the  family  chaise.  Thesis 
woods  are  at  last  being  devastated  ;  but  when  I  first 
knew  that  region,  it  was  as  good  as  any  German  for- 
est. Often  we  stepped  almost  from  the  edge  of  the 
sea  into  some  gap  in  the  woods ;  there  seemed  hardly 
more  than  a  rabbit-track,  yet  presently  we  met  some 
wayfarer  who  had  crossed  the  Cape  by  it.  A  piny 
dell  gave  some  vista  of  the  broad  sea  we  were  leaving, 
and  an  opening  in  the  woods  displayed  another  blue 
sea-line  before  ;  the  encountering  breezes  interchanged 
odors  of  berry-bushes  and  scent  of  brine ;  penetrating 


Cape  Ann. 


67 


farther  among  oaks  and  chestnuts,  we  come  upon  some 
little  cottage,  quaint  and  sheltered  as  any  Spenser 
drew  ;  it  was  on  no  high-road,  and  turned  its  vine-clad 
gable  away  from  even  the  foothpath.  Then  the  ground 
rose  and  other  breezes  came;  perhaps  we  climbed 
trees  to  look  for  landmarks,  and  saw  oidy  still  fartlier 
in  the  woods,  some  great  clitF  of  granitg  or  the  der- 
rick of  an  unseen  quarry.  Three  miles  inland,  as  I 
remember,  we  found  the  hearthstones  of  a  vanished 
settlement ;  then  we  passed  a  swamp  with  cardinal- 
flowers  ;  then  a  cathedral  of  noble  pines,  topped  with 
crows'  nests.  If  we  had  not  gone  astray  bjr  this  time? 
we  presently  emerged  on  Dogtown  Conamon,  an  ele- 
vated table-land,  overspread  with  great  boulders  as 
with  houses,  and  encircled  with  a  girdle  of  blue  sea. 
I  know  of  nothing  like  that  gray  waste  of  boulders  ; 
it  is  a  natural  Salisbury  Plain,  of  which  icebergs  and 
ocean  currents  were  the  Druidic  builders ;  the  multi- 
tude of  couchant  monsters  give  one  a  sense  of  sus- 
pended life  ;  you  feel  as  if  they  must  speak  and  answer 
to  each  other  in  the  silent  nights,  but  by  day  only  the 
wandering  sea-birds  seek  them,  on  their  way  across 
the  Cape,  and  the  sweet-bay  and  green  fern  imbed 
them  in  a  softer  and  deeper  setting  as  the  years  go  by. 
This  is  the  *  height  of  ground '  of  that  wild  footpath  ; 
but  as  you  recede  farther  from  the  outer  ocean  and 
Gloucester,  you  come  among  still  wider  ledges,  unsafe 
without  a  guide,  and  you  find  in  one  place  a  cluster  of 
deserted  houses,  too  difficult  of  access  to  remove  even 


6S 


Cape  Ann. 


their  materials,  so  that  they  are  left  to  moulder 
alone." 

This  is  the  only  place  in  Massachusetts  where  the 
botanist  finds  the  very  beautiful  plant  called  the  Magno- 
lia Glaucus.  It  belongs  to  a  genus  named  afber  Magnol, 
a  French  botanist ;  and  is  of  a  family  comprehending 
many  beautiful  trees  and  shrubs  very  common  in  the 
Southern  and  South-western  states.  The  M.  Glaucus 
grows  to  the  height  of  about  ten  feet,  and  yields  a 
fragrant  flower  through  nearly  the  whole  of  the  warm 
Beacon.  It  cocurs  in  a  swamp,  and  does  not  flourish 
when  transplanted. 

This  cape  was  early  selected,  and  abandoned,  as  a 
fishing  post ;  but  those  who  understand  the  part  taken 
by  Gloucester  in  the  fishing  interest  at  the  present 
day  will  be  surprised  to  learn  that  it  was  given  up  on 
account  of  the  "  ill  choice  of  the  place  for  fishing." 

The  town  of  Gloucester  is  thirty-two  miles  from 
Boston  by  rail,  and  is  a  pleasant,  wide-awake  place. 
The  hotels  are  the  Pavilion  and  the  Atlantic.  The 
former  is  specially  adapted  for  a  summer  resort.  East 
Gloucester  is  situated  two  miles  from  the  Gloucester 
depot. 

The  story  of  the  Gloucester  fishermen  is  a  sad  one. 
In  1862  over  one  hundred  and  thirty  men  were  lost  in 
a  single  gale.  The  annual  loss  in  both  vessels  and 
men  is  fearful.  Nevertheless  a  plenty  of  men  are 
ready  to  engage  in  this  dangerous  business,  which  en- 
lists representatives  of  many  nations.    Both  the  cod  and 


Cape  Ann. 


69 


on 


mackerel  fisheries  are  extensively  prosecuted,  the  va- 
rious fleets  employing  from  one  to  four  thousand  men. 
Many  sail  away  singing : 

"Hurrah!  the  seaward  breezes 

Sweep  down  the  liay  amain; 
Heave  up !  my  lads  I  the  anchor ! 

Bun  up  the  sail  again ! 
Leave  to  the  lubber  landsmen 

The  rail-car  and  the  steed ; 
The  stars  of  heaven  shall  guide  us 

The  breath  of  heaven  shall  speed,"— 

and  yet  have  in  their  hearts  the  sad  presentiment  that 
they  will  never  return. 

In  passing  around  Cape  Ann  in  our  southward  trip, 
we  leave  Gloucester,  and  come  to  Pigeon  Hill,  in 
Rockport,  a  town  that  occupies  the  outer  portion  of 
the  Cape,  and  which  was  originally  a  part  of  Glouces- 
ter. The  great  point  of  interest  here  is  Pigeon  Cove, 
situated  about  two  miles  from  the  railroad  station. 
The  highlands  are  now  called  "  Ocean  View."  The 
fishing  and  bathing  are  fine,  and  the  fame  of  the  place 
has  spread  far  and  wide.  The  massive  rocks  form 
fine  artistic  and  geological  studies.  Houses  of  enter- 
tainment abound  in  the  vicinity,  and  private  enterprise 
is  doing  much  to  adorn  the  situation.  A  couple  of 
mineral  springs  are  also  said  to  possess  valuable  qual- 
ities. The  Pigeon  Cove  House  accommodates  two 
hundred  guests,  and  affords  an  extensive  view.  The 
staple  product  of  Rockport  is  granite.  At  the  village 
of  Squam  may  be  seen   the  great   Rocking   Stone, 


70 


Cape  Ann. 


which  is  similar  in  its  character  to  those  described  by 
Scott  in  "  The  Lord  of  the  Isles,"  where  he  says ; 


"  And  some  cbanced-polsed  and  balanced  lay,  ' 

So  that  a  strippling  arm  might  sway 

A  mass  no  host  could  rais^, 
In  nature's  rage  at  random  thrown 
Yet  trembling  like  the  Druid's  stone 

On  its  precarious  baee." 

The  town  of  Rockport  lies  in  Sandy  Bay,  the 
ancient  name  of  the  parish  before  it  became  a  sepa- 
rate town.  It  is  about  four  miles  from  Gloucester, 
and  has  a  population  of  over  four  thousand  inhabi- 
ants.  In  the  absence  of  a  natural  barrier  for  the 
protection  of  the  harbor,  the  Government  has  built  a 
breakwater  of  stone. 

The  three  principal  islands  off  the  shore  of  Rock- 
port  are  known  as  Straitsmouth,  Thatcher's  and  Milk 
Island.  The  first,  or  most  northern,  is  separated  from 
Cape  Ann  only  by  a  narrow  channel.  It  has  also  a 
light-house  for  the  benefit  of  in-shore  navigation. 
Thatcher's  Island  is  the  next  and  the  largest,  contain- 
ing about  eighty  acres.  It  has  a  light-house.  Milk 
Island  lies  a  short  distance  south-west  of  Thatcher's. 

We  have  already  referred  to  the  fact  that  Captain 
John  Smith  gave  them  a  name,  to  commemorate 
his  own  prowess  in  slaying  three  Turks  whom  he  met 
in  single  combat.  Unfortunately  the  name  did  not 
hold.  Thatcher,  whose  name  has  been  perpetuated  in 
connection  with  one  of  the  islands,  was  cast  away  in  the 


Cape  Ann, 


71 


neighborhood  during  the  year  1636.  With  him  was 
the  Rev.  Mr.  Avery,  of  Ipswich,  whose  wife  was  saved, 
while  their  six  children  were  lost  in  the  deep.  The 
place  where  the  disaster  occurred  was  called  "  Thatch- 
er's Woe;"  also,  "Avery  his  Fall."  The  site  is  aot 
positively  known,  yet  it  is  highly  probable  that  the 
true  place  is  "  Crackwood's  Ledge." 

Leaving  Milk  Island  we  run  down  the  shore,  pass 
Eastern  Point  with  its  light-house,  and,  turning  north- 
ward, enter  the  harbor  of  Gloucester,  noticing  that 
the  man  at  the  wheel  is  here  obliged  to  give  very  par- 
ticular attention  to  the  crooked  channel. 

On  the  westerly  side  of  the  harbor  is  Norman's 
Oh,  or  Woe,  a  large  rock  lying  a  few  rods  from  the 
shore,  and  c(fbnected  with  it  by  a  reef,  wliich  the  sea 
leaves  bare  at  low  tide.  The  records  of  Essex  County 
sl]ow  that  a  Richard.  Norman  sailed  on  a  voyage  from 
which  he  never  returned.  The  tradition  is  that  the 
name  was  given  in  remembrance  of  one  Norman  ship- 
wrecked there.  Kettle's  Island  is  on  the  westerly 
side  of  the  harbor,  and  is  high  and  rocky.  In  the 
harbor  are  Five  and  Ten-Pound  Islands. 

On  the  west  side  of  the  harbor  is  also  seen  the  old 
fort.  During  the  late  Rebellion  it  was  refitted  by 
the  Government,  which  is  now  again  suffering  it  to 
fiiU  to  decay.  At  the  head  of  the  harbor  is  seen  the 
town,  and  near  by,  on  the  left,  is  another  light-house. 
Pushing  inland  two  miles  on  the  Gloucester  Branch 
Railroad,  we  come  to  West  Parish ;  next  to  Manches- 


Wk'k 


'  I  I 

'  i  ! 


!     1 


72 


Cape  Ann. 


ter,  seven  miles  from  Gloucester ;  thence  to  West 
Manchester,  one  mile  farther.  Beverly  Farms  is  one 
mile  beyond  this  point,  being  only  five  miles  from 
the  main  track  of  the  Eastern  Railroad.  All  of  these 
places  are  very  pleasant,  and  many  signs  indicate  that 
in  the  future  there  will  be  a  considerable  population. 
Here  we  leave  the  subject  of  Cape  Ann. 


V-^ -.r-^^ 


':)>cr::«(^ 


MASSACHU SETTS    BAY, 


hil'j 


CHAPTBB    VI. 


il^ 


Beverly  —  Salem  —  Lowell's  Island  —  Marblehead  — 
SwAMPScoTT  —  Lynn  —  Nahant— Boston— Quincy— Hum. 
—Cohasset—Marshfield—Duxbury— Plymouth. 


|EYOND  all  question,  Massachusetts  Bay 
is  a  region  of  very  great  interest,  not  only 
on  account  of  its  venerable  historical 
associations,  but  for  the  reason  that  it 
possesses  natural  attractions  of  a  high  order.  This 
chapter  will  be  devoted  to  the  review  of  a  trip  made 
around  the  shores  of  ihe  bay,  from  Cape  Ann  to 
Plymouth. 

In  leaving  Cape  Ann,  the  first  point  of  interest  you 
touch  at  is  Beverly,  an  ancient  town  eighteen  miles 
distant  from  Boston,  and  reached  from  that  city  by  the 
Eastern  Railroad.  On  the  way  by  water,  we  pass  be- 
tween Great  Misery  Island  and  Baker's  Island.  On 
the  latter  stands  a  well  known  Light.  The  harbor  of 
Beverly  is  pleasant  and  affords  some  good  fishing,  to 
which  pursuit  the  town  was  once  devoted.  But  manu- 
factu  ""  *"ow  claim  the  chief  interest.  Any  one  fond 
of  th„  ^ashore  could  p.iss  a  pleasant  summer  here. 
The    place  has  interesting  associations,  in  connection 


I   I 


lUfll 


■l;,i; 


74 


Massachusetts  Bay. 


with  Roger  Conant  and  John  Balch.  North  Beverly, 
three  miles  distant,  contains  a  portion  of  the  Wenham 
Lake,  a  hody  of  sparkling  water  more  than  fifty  feet 
deep,  nestling  among  the  hills,  imd  supplying  the  Salem 
"Water  Works. 

"We  now  come  to  Salem,  sixteen  miles  from  Boston, 
and  famous  in  the  annals  of  witchcraft,  which  form  one 
of  the  vexed  subjects  of  Massachusetts  history.  In 
fact  there  will  be  no  end  of  discussion.  Salem  and  its 
antiquities  form  a  prolific  subject,  and  those  who  would 
be  acquainted  with  the  story  must  repair  to  the  local 
histories. 

The  Indian  name  of  the  place  was  Naumkeag.  It 
was  the  first  town  founded  in  Massachusetts,  after  Ply- 
mouth. Roger  Conant  left  Cape  Ann  and  came  to 
Salem  in  1626,  and  John  Endicott,  Governor  of  the 
Plantation,  reached  the  place  two  years  later.  It  now 
has  a  population  of  twenty-five  thousand.  It  was  de- 
voted to  the  East  India  trade  at  one  time,  and  enjoyed 
something  like  a  moncpoly,  though  its  maritime  glory 
has  departed,  and  the  Custom  House  is  the  quietest 
place  in  the  city,  which  is  given  to  manufactures.  A 
day  here  will  give  the  visitor  an  opportunity  of  view- 
ing many  relics  of  the  dark  times  of  Witchcraft. 

The  Athenaeum,  and  the  Essex  Institute  are  among 
the  chief  points  of  attraction.  At  these  places  may  be 
seen  many  rare  things  brought  from  afar,  as  well  as 
an  excellent  collection  in  the  department  of  Natural 
History.     The  Essex  House  is  the  chief  hotel. 


Massachusetts  Bay. 


n 


A 


The  harbor  and  islands  do  not  demand  any  labored 
description.  The  tourist  must  see  them  for  himself.  In 
this  respect  he  will  be  amply  repaid.  Lowell's  Island, 
with  its  hotel,  forms  a  delightful  summer  resort.  It  is 
much  frequented. 

In  swinging  southward,  the  next  peninsula  that  ob- 
structs the  way  is  that  of  Marblehead,  a  stony  head- 
land jutting  out  far*  into  the  sea,  The  town  is  four 
miles  from  Salem  by  railroad,  and  in  times  past  has 
presented  a  quaint  aspect.  It  is  full  of  rocks,  which 
appear  everywhere,  though  much  has  been  done  to 
get  them  out  of  the  way.  In  the  earlier  days  Mar- 
blehead was  one  of  the  leading  fishing  ports,  and  had 
much  foreign  trade,  but  a  change  has  taken  place,  and 
now  the  inevitable  boot  and  shoe  business  is  coming 
to  be  the  principal  thing.  During  ^11  the  wars  that 
the  country  has  been  so  unfortunate  as  to  engage  in, 
Marblehead  has  always  borne  a  patriotic  part,  being  first 
in  war,  and  first  in  peace.  The  population  is  about 
seven  thousand.  The  town  is  situated  on  the  west  side 
of  a  harbor  formed  by  Marblehead  Neck,  which  ex- 
tends in  a  north-easterly  direction  a  mile  and  a  half, 
the  land  at  the  extremity  being  tipped  by  a  lighthouse. 
As  it  is  open  towards  the  east,  the  harbor  is  exposed 
to  severe  storms  from  thai  quarter.  Otherwise  it  is 
excellent,  and  easy  of  access.  On  the  north- ^ast  is 
Cat  Island,  on  the  east,  Tom  Moore's  Rocks,  i<nd  at 
the  south.  Tinker's  Island.  The  latter  is  uninhabited, 
and  is  resorted  to  by  fishermen   in  search  of  cunners. 


ill 


i-i'ii 


ixii 


I. 


i 


tl'l!; 


L' 


76 


Massachusetts  Bay. 


The  Roaring  Bull  Rock  is  close  by,  and  will  be  discov- 
ered by  the  foam  which  makes  around  it. 

On  Marblehead  Neck,  during  the  warm  weather, 
may  be  seen  the  white  tents  of  parties  camping  out, 
as  is  the  case  in  many  parts  of  Cape  Ann,  reminding 
people  thereby  of  those  lines  from  "The  Tent  on 
the  Beach :" 

*<  When  heats  as  of  a  tropic  climo 

Burned  all  our  inland  rallies  through, 
The  fk-icnd8,  the  guests  of  summer  time, 
Pitched  their  white  tents  wDero  sea-winds  blew." 

Swampscott  is  the  next  summer  resort  tl  demands 
attention.  Being  convenient  to  Boston,  possessing  a 
fair  beach,  and  excellent  facilities  for  yachting,  it  has 
become  one  of  the  most  fashionable  of  sea-side  water- 
ing places.  It  possesses  numerous  hotels  and  board- 
ing houses.  Among  the  former,  are  the  Lincoln,  the 
Ocean,  and  the  Great  and  Little  Anawam  Hotels. 
Says  one  summer  visitor  at  this  favored  spot : 

"  Whatever  else  we  do  we  can  get  up  the  most  gor- 
geous sunsets  here.  •  The  great  Scene  Painter  spares 
no  expense.  They  are  infinitely  grand  in  color,  mass, 
proportion.  I  wish  I  could  tell  about  one  the  other 
night.  I  have  seen  nearly  half  a  century  of  sunsets, 
but  remember  none  that  approached  this.  Many 
nights  we  have  had  the  west  all  glorious,  gorgeous ; 
but  the  clouds  were  not  in  mass.  They  were  frag- 
mentary, scattered,  alternate.  Tlie  sun-tints  pervaded 
them  thoroughly,  and  every  particle  was  lighted,  shad- 


Massachusetts  Bay, 


n 


mg  from  the  lesser  golden  to  the  completely  golden^ 
from  the  paler  pink  to  the  superb  crimson,  in  all  thaw 
delicate  variety  of  shading  you  may  not  talk  about. 
You  can  see  it,  but  you  cannot  tell  it,  and  you  make 
a  fool  of  yourself  and  of  language  if  you  try  to. 
These  had  all  been  serene,  making  calm  as  themselves 
the  gazer,  and  leaving  the  quieting,  inspiring  '  after- 
glow' along  the  horizon  as  within  the  spirit.  But 
this — it  was  another  thing.  The  day  had  been  full  of 
strangely  angry  clouds,  which  somehow,  like  some 
angry  men,  had  done  nothing  all  day  long  but  threat- 
en. They  piled  their  huge  volume  all  along  the  West, 
pile  above  pile,  ethereal  Alp  on  Alp — and  you  felt 
sure,  every  half  hour,  that  they  would  hurl  winds  and 
waters  and  lightnings." 

Leaving  Swampscott,  we  proceeed  a  few  miles  south- 
ward, round  Phillips  Point,  and  find  ourselves  off  Lynn 
Beach.  The  town  was  settled  in  1629,  and  now  has  a 
population  of  twenty-nine  thousand.  All  the  world 
knows  that  Lynn  is  famous  for  its  boots  and  shoes,  par- 
ticularly the  latter.  About  the  year  1750,  the  busi- 
ness was  started  by  one  Dagyr,  who,  after  giving  the 
town  the  benefit  of  his  knowledge  by  instructing  work- 
men, died  in  the  almshouse.  Poor  Dagyr,  from  whose 
humble  beginnings  the  prosperity  of  Lynn  eventually 
rose,  is  not  well  known  ;  jet  who  has  not .  not  heard 
of  the  famous  "  Moll  Pitcher,"  the  subject  of  story 
and  drama  ?  On  entering  the  city  by  the  railroad  is 
seen  "  High  Rock,'*  where  the  Fortune  Teller  lived ; 


I 


78 


Massachusetts  Bay. 


and  honestly,  too,  they  say,  at  least,  for  a  fortune  teller. 
Lynn  is  also  the  place  where  Hiram  Marble  worked  for 
sixteen  long  years  drilling  in  the  rocks,  in  search  of 
hidden  wealth,  the  existence  of  which  he  had  been  as- 
sured by  "  spirits."  The  hole  made  by  him  at  Dun- 
geon Rock,  was  about  one  hundred  and  thirty-five  feet 
deep  and  about  seven  in  diameter.  Death  put  an  end 
to  his  labors  and  his  hallucinations  in  18G8.  The  scen- 
ery is  fine.  The  view  from  High  Rock  is  particularly 
good. 

The  beach  is  very  much  frequented.  Some  distance 
from  the  shore  is  the  famous  "  Egg  Rock,"  which  is 
the  lofty  summit  of  a  rocky  hill  partially  buried  in  the 
bay.  It  is  really  a  fine  object,  especially  when  seen 
from  Nahant.  In  certain  lights,  its  colors  are  exquis- 
ite. On  the  summit  is  a  dwelling  house,  tipped  with 
a  small  beacon  light.  The  situation  is  beautiful  and 
romantic,  and  the  rock  is  difficult  of  access,  on  ac- 
count of  the  surf,  which  breaks  around  its  sloping 
sides. 

Next  comes  Nahant,  well  known  to  the  people  of 
the  country  generally,  as  one  of  the  most  noticable 
places  on  the  coast  of  Massachusetts  Bay.  A  rocky 
peninsula  of  metamorphic  strata  upheaved,  shattered, 
and  crossed  and  recrossed  in  every  direction  by  broad 
veins  of  volcanic  rock  injected  as  molten  lava,  Nahant 
presents  an  equally  interesting  study  to  the  pictu- 
resque tourist  and  the  student  of  geology.  One  might 
imagine,  when  viewing  the  peninsula  from  a  distance, 


Massachusetts  Bay, 


79 


ac- 
)ping 


that  what  he  sees  is  the  remains  of  an  enormoiis  lion 
crouching  in  the  sea.  But,  on  a  nearer  approach,  its 
real  character  becomes  apparent,  and  the  mass  of  rock 
by  degrees  resolves  itself  in  its  various  constituents  of 
cliff  and  jagged  drong,  among  which  the  hungry  sea 
has  eaten  out  many  a  grotto,  chamber  and  arch,  or 
carved  out  "  Pulpit "  and  "  Castle  "  Rocks.  Around 
these  the  winds  howl  and  the  waves  roar  in  a  most 
impressive  manner.  The  rhetoricians  exhaust  their 
skill  here  in  vain.  * 

Nahant  may  be  reached  by  carriage  from  Lynn, 
but  the  easiest  route  from  Boston  is  by  the  steamer, 
which  in  the  summer  season  makes  several  trips  each 
day,  carrying  multitudes  thither  to  picnic  on  the 
beaches,  and  lunch  or  fish  among  the  rocks. 

In  many  respects,  Nahant  is  without  a  rival ;  and 
yet  its  fame,  as  a  fashionable  resort,  is  among  the 
things  of  the  past.  In  the  year  1861,  the  gigantic 
attempt  at  hotel-keeping  here  inaugurated  met  its 
crowning  disaster,  by  a  fire  which  reduced  the  splen- 
did structure,  with  all  its  costly  conveniences  and  ap- 
pointments, to  an  unsightly  heap  of  ashes.  The 
attempt  will  probably  never  be  renewed,  as  the  grounds 
have  now  passed  into  the  hands  of  wealthy  persons 
who  have  no  interest  in  maintaining  public  houses 
near  their  beautiful  villas.  Nahant  is  therefore  one 
of  the  most  quiet  resorts  to  which  the  people  of  Bos- 
ton now  resort,  as  the  grounds  specially  appropriated 
to  visitors  are  somewhat  apart  from  the  summer  cot- 


if 


W 


8o 


Massachusetts  Bay. 


\ 

i 


%\ 


tages.  A  small  hotel,  of  long  standing,  called  Whit- 
ney's, accommodates  the  few  transient  guests  who 
pass  a  night  or  two  on  the  peninsula. 

Nahant  was  largely  indebted  to  Frederic  Tudor  for 
many  of  its  improvements.  The  place  is  now  very 
well  stocked  with  trees,  which  take  the  place  of  those 
that  the  early  inhabitants  were  in  such  haste  to  cut 
down. 

Maolis, — an  anagram  of  Siloam, — is  the  name  of  a 
Garden  where  many  of  the  visitors  are  entertained ; 
while  the  rest  go  rambling  about,  to  visit  Swallow's 
Cave,  Irene's  Grotto,  Pulpit  Rock,  the  Gorge,  Castle 
Rock,  Spouting  Horn  and  Little  Nahant ;  or  else  to 
fish  or  to  bathe  on  some  one  of  the  many  beaches.  At 
this  point  the  tourist  will  do  well  to  examine  the  local 
guide  books. 

Artists  in  search  of  rock  studies  will  here  find  a 
great  variety,  which  at  low  tide  ordinarily  present 
both  rarity  of  form  and  richness  of  color ;  while  at 
the  evening  hour,  bathed  in  the  sunset  glow,  they  ap- 
peared iiidescribably  beautiful.  In  the  summer  season 
artists  are  daily  found  perched  under  the  shadow  of 
projecting  masses  of  rock,  making  careful  studies. 
Here  and  there  our  party,  when  visiting  the  place, 
found  cross-  sections  of  hexagonal  basaltic  columns 
like  those  of  Giant's  Causeway.  They  are  quite 
rare. 

We  cannot,  however,  dismiss  the  subject  of  Nahant 
without  first  giving  some  account  of  the  sea-serpent, 


Massachusetts  Bay. 


u 


hant 
)ent, 


who  makes  the  neighboring  waters  his  favorite  haunt) 
and  whose  periodic  appearance  fills  the  people  with 
excitement.  The  subject  has  been  the  occasion  of 
much  jesting,  and  many  imagine  that  such  a  thing  as 
the  sea-serpent  is  simply  an  impossibility.  This,  nev- 
ertheless, is  not  the  judgment  of  scientific  minds.  The 
question  is  simply  one  of  fact.  Is  the  old  race  of 
Saurians  extinct  or  not  ?  Possibly  not ;  and  if  not, 
such  a  thing  may  have  appeared  at  Nahant.  Many 
have  given  their  testimony  on  this  subject,  under  outh, 
before  officers  of  the  law,  and  believe  that  they  have 
seen  the  monster.  Henry  Hudson,  when  on  this  coast 
in  1G09,  testified  that  his  men  saw  a  Mermaid,  and  he 
gives  a  particular  description  of  the  creature.  But 
that  is  not  now  to  the  point. 

Amos  Lawrence,  the  Boston  merchant,  under  dike 
of  April  26,  1849,  wrote :  "  I  have  never  had  any 
doubt  of  the  existence  of  the  sea-serpent  since  the 
morning  he  was  seen  oflf  Nahant  by  old  Marshal 
Prince,  through  his  famous  mast-head  spy-glass."  Mr. 
Samuel  Cabot,  in  a  letter  to  Colonel  T.  H.  Perkins, 
of  Boston,  says :  t     .      . 

"  I  got  into  my  chaise  [at  Nahant]  about  seven  in 
the  morning  to  come  to  Boston,  and  on  reaching  the 
Long  Beach,  observed  a  number  of  people  collected 
there,  and  several  boats  j^ushing  off  and  in  the  offing. 
I  was  speculating  on  what  should  have  occasioned  so 
great  an  assemblage  there  without  any  apparent  object, 
and  finally  had  concluded  that  they  were  some  Lynn 

6 


ifl 


m 


'1 


82 


Massachusetts  Bay. 


people  who  were  embarking  in  those  boats  on  a  party 
of  pleasure  to  Egg  Rock  or  some  other  point.  I  had 
not  heard  of  the  sea-serpent  as  ber  ^  in  that  neigh- 
borhood, and  the  idea  of  the  animal  did  not  enter  my 
mind  at  the  moment.  As  my  curiosity  was  directed 
towards  the  boat,  to  ascertain  what  course  they  were 
taking,  my  attention  was  suddenly  arrested  by  an  ob- 
ject emerging  from  the  water  at  a  distance  of  about 
one  hundred  or  one  hundred  and  fifty  yards,  which 
gave  to  my  mind  at  the  glance,  the  idea  of  a  horse's 
head.  As  my  eye  ranged  along,  I  perceived,  at  & 
short  distance,  eight  or  ten  regular  bunches  or  protu- 
berances, and  at  a  short  interval,  three  or  four  more. 
I  was  now  satisfied  that  the  sea-serpent  was  before 
me,  and  after  the  first  moment  of  excitement  produced 
by  the  sight  of  so  strange  a  monster,  taxed  myself  to 
investigate  his  appearance  as  accurately  as  I  could.  My 
first  obje^ '  was  the  head,  which  I  satisfied  myself  was 
serpent-shaped.  It  was  elevated  about  two  feet  from 
the  water,  and  he  depressed  't  graduajly  to  within  six 
or  eight  inches  as  he  moved  along.  I  could  always 
sec  under  his  cUin,  which  appeared  to  be  hollow  un- 
derneath, or  to  curve  downward.  His  motion  was  at 
that  time  very  slow  along  the  '  jach,  inclining  toward 
the  shore.  He  first  moved  h:i  head  from  side  to  side, 
as  if  to  look  about  him.  I  did  not  see  his  eyes,  though 
I  hav.  no  doubt  I  could  have  seen  them  if  I  had 
thought  to  attend  to  this.  His  bunches  appeared  to 
me  not  altogether  uniform  in  size  ;  ana,  as  he  moved 


Massachusetts  Bay. 


S3 


along,  Bome  appealed  to  be  depressed,  and  others 
brought  above  the  surface,  though  I  could  not  perceive 
any  motion  in  them.  My  next  object  was  to  ascertain 
his  length.  For  this  purpose  I  directq.d  my  eye  to 
several  whaleboats  at  about  the  same  distance,  one  of 
which  was  beyond  him,  and,  by  comparing  the  relative 
length,  I  calculated  that  the  distance  from  the  animal's 
head  to  the  last  protuberance  I  had  noticed  would  bo 
equal  to  about  five  of  those  boats.  I  felt  persuaded 
by  this  examination  that  he  could  not  be  less  than 
eighty  feet  long.  As  he  approached  the  shore  and 
came  between  me  and  a  point  of  land  which  projects 
from  the  end  of  the  beach,  I  had  another  means  of 
satisfying  myself  on  this  point.  After  I  had  viewed 
him  thus  attentively  for  about  five  minutes,  he  sank 
gradually  into  the  v  ater  and  disappeared.  He  after- 
wards again  made  his  appearance  for  a  moment  at  a 
short  distance.  .  .  .  After  remaining  some  two  or 
three  hours  on  the  beach,  without  seeing  him  again,  I 
returned  toward  Nahant,  and  in  crossing  the  Small 
Beach  had  another  good  view  of  him  for  a  longer 
'me,  but  at  a  greater  distance.  At  this  time  he 
moved  more  rapidly,  causiiig  a  white  foam  under  his 
chin,  and  a  long  weKe,  and  his  protuberance  had  a 
more  uniform  appearance.  At  this  time  he  must  have 
been  seen  by  two  or  three  hundred  persons  on  the 
beach." 

James   Prince,   Marshal   of  the   District,    testifies 
that,   "  his  head  appeared  about   three   foot  o'lt   of 


% 


'ail 


84 


Massachusetts  Bay, 


water  ;  I  counted  thirteeu  bunches  on  his  back.  My 
family  thought  there  were  fifteen.  He  passed  three 
times  at  a  moderate  rate  across  the  bay." 

Now  was  this  the  trunk  of  a  tree  passing  with  the 
tide;  was  it  a  horse-mackerel ;  or  was  it  the  veritable 
"sea-serpent  ?" 

Leaving  the  Sea  Serpent,  however,  and  proceeding 
on  our  way,  we  next  reach  Chelsea  Beach,  which  bor- 
ders the  city  bearing  t  lo  name  of  Chelsea.  This  is  a 
fine  beach  of  considerable  length,  with  several  hotels. 
The  place  is  much  frequented,  and  is  reached  from 
Boston  by  carriage,  the  route  passing  through  the  his- 
toric city  of  Charlestown,  across  the  Mystic  River. 
Of  Charlestown  itself,  the  scene  of  the  famous  battle 
of  Bunker  Hill,  (which  was  fought  on  Breed's  Hill 
where  the  Monument  stands)  we  might  write  at  any 
length.  This  is  a  place  that  tourists  cannot  well 
afford  to  pass  without  seeing.  Among  the  places  of 
peculiar  interest  are  the  Navy  Yard  and  the  State 
Prison. 

From  Charlestown  we  may  pass  into  Boston  by  the 
bridges,  which  here  span  the  Charles  River.  But 
Boston  is  not  a  place  that  we  need  to  write  about. 
The  tourist  will  spend  some  days  here,  as  a  matter  of 
course,  visiting  the  points  of  interest  around  the  har- 
bor, as  well  as  tViose  within  the  city  and  suburbs. 
Guides  will  be  found  at  every  book-stall  to  assist  him 
iu  the  work  of  sight-seeing.  ' 

Leaving  Boston  by  the  Old  Colony  Railroad,  we 


I 


Massachusetts  Bay. 


85 


of 
tate 

the 
But 
out. 
r  of 
par- 
Irbs. 
Ihim 

we 


come  upon  Savin  Hill,  a  very  interesting  and  pictur- 
esque place.  From  this  region  we  have  fine  views  of 
Boston  Harbor.  At  a  distance  of  eight  miles  from 
Boston  we  reach  the  ancient  town  of  Quincy,  settled 
in  1625,  and  called  Mount  Wollaston,  after  the  founder. 
The  early  history  of  the  place  is  of  peculiar  interest. 
It  appears  that  aftei*  spending  some  time  here  Captain 
Wollaston  did  not  find  his  expectations  realized,  and 
accordingly  went  to  Virginia.  In  his  absence  one 
Thomas  Morton  "  who  had  been  a  kind  of  pettifogger, 
of  Furnival  Inn,"  persuaded  the  people  left  behind 
to  rebel  against  their  leader,  and  to  take  up  with 
shameless  revelry.  He  accordingly  changed  the  name 
of  the  place  to  "  Merry  Mount,"  where  they  lived  a 
licentious  life,  gambling  and  corrupting  the  Indian 
women.  Morton  also  enticed  servants  away  from 
Plymouth,  and  sold  arms  and  ammunition  to  the  In- 
dians. This  naturally  led  to  a  bad  condition  of  things, 
and  the  peace  with  the  Indians  was  imperilled.  The 
authorities  at  Plymouth  therefore  sent  messengers  to 
remonstrate  with  Morton.  The  first  and  second  em- 
bassages, being  of  a  peaceful  character,  failed,  and 
only  excited  abuse.  Finally,  Captain  Miles  Standish 
was  sent  with  an  armed  force  to  arrest  them,  when 
Morton  barricaded  the  house,  defied  Standish,  and 
excited  his  comrades  to  resistance  by  the  me^ns  of 
strong  drink.  But  in  the  end  the  little  Captain  was 
too  much  for  them,  and  the  rioters  were  marched  to 
Plymouth,  from  whence  Morton  was  sent  on  his  way 
to  embark  for  England.     (See  p.  1 83.) 


86 


Massachusetts  Bay. 


Morton  revenged  himself  by  writing  his  famous 
"  New  English  Canaan,"  wherein  he  gives  an  ac- 
count of  "  the  Revells  of  New  Canaan."  He  says : 
"  The  inhabitants  of  Pasonagessit  (having  translated 
the  name  of  their  habitation  from  that  ancient  Salvage 
name  to  Ma-re  Mount ;  and  being  resolved  to  have 
the  new  name  confirmed  for  a  memorial  to  after  ages) 
did  devise  amongst  themselves  to  have  it  performed 
in  a  solemne  manner  with  Revels,  and  merriment 
after  the  old  English  custome ;  prepared  to  set  up  a 
Maypole  upon  the  festival  of  Philip  and  Jacob ;  and 
therefore  brewed  a  barrelL  of  excellent  beare,  and  pro- 
vided a  case  of  bottles  to  be  spent,  with  other  good 
chcare,  for  all  commers  of  that  day.  And  because 
they  would  have  it  in  com])leat  form,  they  had  pre- 
pared a  song  fitting  to  the  time  and  the  present  occa- 
tion.  And  upon  May-day  they  brought  the  Maypole 
to  the  place  appointed,  with  drumes,  gunnes,  pistols, 
and  other  fitting  instruments,  for  that  purpose ;  and 
there  erected  it  with  the  help  of  Salvages  that  came 
thether  of  purpose  to  see  the  manner  of  our  Revels. 
A  goodly  pine  of  80  foote  longe,  was  reared  up  with  a 
peare  of  buckshorns  nayled  one,  somewhat  neare  unto 
the  top  of  it :  where  it  stood  as  a  a  faire  sea  mark  for 
directions,  how  to  finde  out  the  way  to  mine  Host  of 
Ma-re  Mount." 

When  the  Maypole  was  up  he  says  that ''  the  Plym- 
outh people  viewed  it  as  '  an  Idoll ;'  yea,  they  called 
it  the  Calfe  of  Horeb  !  and  stood  at  defiance  with  the 


\^ 


Massachusetts  Bay. 


87 


place  naming  it  Mount  Dagon ;  threatening  to  make 
it  a  woeful!  mount  and  not  a  merry  mount." 

Quincy  is  celebrated  as  the  home  of  the  family  so 
prolific  in  Presidents,  and  for  its  inexhaustible  quar- 
ries of  granite. 

The  next  point  worthy  of  mention  is  Weymouth, 
the  ancient  Wessagusset,  situated  twelve  miles  from 
.  Boston.  Soon  after  the  settlement  of  Plymouth,  one 
Thomas  Weston,  a  London  merchant,  undertook  a  set- 
tlement at  this  place ;  yet  it  did  not  prosper,  as  the  in- 
fluence of  Morton  and  his  crew  at  Merry  Mount  was 
highly  deleterious.  F  inally  the  savages  became  exaspe- 
rated and  laid  a  plan  for  the  destruction  of  the  whites. 
Intelligence  of  this  plan  fortunately  reached  Plymouth, 
and  Captain  Miles  Standish  marched  with  a  chosen 
band,  and  surprised  and  slew  some  of  the  Indians, 
who  were  thus  reduced  to  submission.  When  the 
news  of  this  event  reached  those  of  the  Pilgrims  who 
had  remained  behind  in  Holland,  it  gave  rise  to  the 
sad  regret  of  Elder  Robinson,  who  lamented  that  they 
had  not  converted  some  of  the  Indians  before  slaying 
any. 

Hingham  is  the  next  point  of  interest  reached. 
The  tourist  may  go  by  water  or  by  rail.  In  taking 
the  steamer,  he  will  have  delightful  views  of  the  har- 
bor of  Boston,  and  see  much  that  is  interesting. 
Hingham  was  settled  in  1635,  and  contains  what  is, 
perhaps,  the  oldest  house  of  worship  in  the  United 
States.     The  Old  Colony  House  is  the  chief  hotel. 


88 


Massachusetts  Bay. 


Eighteen  miles  from  Boston,  by  rail,  we  reach  the 
famous  summer  resort  known  as  Nantasket  Beach. 
This  place  is  included  within  the  jurisdiction  of  Hull. 
It  may  bo  reached  more  directly  however  by  steamers 
which  run  to  the  place  from  Boston  touching  at  Hull ; 
reducing  the  distance  t-o  twelve  miles.  The  hotel  is 
the  well-known  Rockland  House,  situated  near  the 
farthest  steamboat  landing.  Some  distance  nearer 
Hull,  a  new  town  has  been  laid  out  and  a  hotel  buil'. 
Erelong  this  latter  place  will  doubtless  takd  rank  a«» 
a  summer  retreat  for  the  people  of  Boston.  Hull 
itself  has  long  been  known  as  a  popular  summer  resort 
of  Bostonians,  who  love  its  cool  and  refreshing  breeze. 
The  marine  telegraph  is  located  on  the  hill  near  the 
remains  of  an  ancient  fort  erected  during  the  revolu- 
tionary war  by  our  French  allies.  But  to  enjoy  this 
region  fully,  we  need  to  be  more  or  less  upon  the 
water,  and  sail  along  the  coast.  In  doing  so,  or  in 
taking  the  South  Shore  Railroad,  the  next  point  of 
interest  will  be  Cohasset,  with  its  '*  Rocks,"  famous 
in  the  annals  of  shipwreck  and  disaster.  Cohasset 
was  formerly  a  part  of  Hingham,  but  it  is  now  a  sep- 
arate town,  and  a  place  resorted  to  by  tourists.  Fish- 
ing and  fowling  are  both  pursued  with  great  zest  and 
success.  The  "Glades"  House  is  the  hotel.  Here, 
from  the  shore,  may  be  seen  Minot's  Light,  situated 
on  a  ledge  out  at  sea.  Scituate  also  has  mar  y  of  the 
advantages  of  the  former  place.  .         i 

Eight  miles  from  Cohasset  is  Marshfield,  the  home 


Massachusetts  Bay. 


89 


of  Daniel  Webster,  and  the  place  where  his  ashes 
now  rest,  within  the  sound  of  the  sea  which  he  loved 
80  well.  At  this  place  is  located  the  Brant  Rock 
House,  reached  by  stage,  a  distance  of  four  miles. 
Brant  Rock  is  a  place  of  growing  importance  as  a 
bummer  resort,  and  will  not  be  overlooked  by  tourists, 
who  can  here  enjoy  all  the  ordinary  seaside  pleasures. 

A  little  further  on  is  Duxbury,  celebrated  as  the 
home  of  Captain  Miles  Standish,  the  great  fighting 
man  of  ancient  Plymouth  Colony,  whose  "  Courtship" 
has  been  rendered  as  memorable  as  his  military  ad- 
ventures, by  the  Muse  of  Longfellow.  Recently  a 
monument  has  been  built  to  perpetuate  the  fame  of 
Standish,  and  a  town  has  been  laid  out  on  the  emi- 
nence known  as  "  Captain *s  Hill."  The  place  has 
a  fair  future  before  it,  and  is  invested  with  many  inter- 
esting historical  memories  and  venerable  traditions. 

Here  w.e  are,  however,  treading  upon  the  borders 
of  Plymouth,  whither  we  may  go  by  stage,  via  Kings- 
ton, or  else  reach  it  by  going  back  to  the  Old  Colony 
Railroad. 

The  story  of  Plymouth  has  often  been  told,  and  yet 
it  is  never  stale  nor  common.  In  approaching  the  , 
place,  the  tourist  looks  in  vain  for  some  evidence  that 
he  is  hard  upon  a  "  stern  and  rock-bound  coast,"  and 
learns  at  last  that  Mrs.  Hemans  is  as  poor  in  geology 
as  in  history.  Of  rocks  there  are  none,  save  one,  the 
piece  of  granite  which  lies  near  (and  perhaps  on) 
the  spot  where  the  Pilgrims  landed,  and  which  is  itself 


go 


Massachusetts  Bay. 


a  pilgrim.  The  region  far  and  wide  is  composed  of 
sand,  a  fact  apparent  more  and  more  as  we  pass  on 
and  go  over  Cape  Cod. 

It  was  on  November  9th,  1620,  that  the  Mayflower 
cast  anchor  in  the  harbor  of  Provincetown,  at  the  ex- 
tremity of  Cape  Cod ;  and,  after  various  adventures, 
the  company  of  Pilgrims  landed  at  Plymouth,  De- 
cember 22d,  following.  But  why  did  they  come 
over? 

Mrs.  Hemans,  and  certain  orators  tell  us  that  they 
desired  "  freedom  to  worship  God."  But  if  that  was 
the  case,  they  need  not  have  left  Holland,  where  they 
already  had  all  the  liberty  which  they  desired.  Why 
then  did  they  come  over?  Let  this  question  be 
answered  without  the  usual  rhetorical  embellishments 
of  modern  writers,  by  one  well  qualified  to  reply, 
Nathaniel  Morton,  the  original  Secretary  of  the  Col- 
ony, and  one  of  the  company  of  Pilgrims.  It  will  be 
necessary,  however,  to  abbreviate  the  language.  The 
reasons  are  as  follows  : — 

First.  Because  they  were  of  a  different  language 
from  the  Dutch,  and  could  not  reform  anything  umiss 
in  them,  especially  their  neglect  of  the  Lord's  day. 
"  Second.  Because  they  soon  spent  their  estates,  and 
were  **  forced  either  to  return  back  to  England,  or  to 
live  very  meanly."  .       . 

Third.  Their  children  were  bowed  by  manual 
labor,  and  were  in  danger  of  becoming  hopelessly 
corrupt,  by  evil  companions. 


Massachusetts  Bay, 


91 


»iago 
Luiiss 


and 
H'  to 

iiiuul 
issly 


Fourth.  "  Their  posterity  would  in  a  few  genera- 
tions become  Dutch.'* 

Fifth.  They  hoped  to  make  way  "  for  the  propa- 
gation and  advancement  of  the  Gospel." 

Here,  it  will  be  perceived,  there  is  nothing  about 
coming  over  to  establish  freedom  of  worship  or  civil 
liberty.  We  have  both,  however,  whether  they  intend- 
ed it  or  not,  and  hence  we  need  not  dwell  upon  their 
failings.  We  should  rather  extol  their  virtues  «.nd 
remember  the  great  debt  that  we  owe  their  memories. 
But  we  can  do  this  without  setting  up,  in  their  behalf, 
any  fictitious  claims,  as  is  too  largely  the  fashion,  since 
it  is  wholly  unnecessary  to  indulge  in  gratuitous  in- 
vention in  connection  with  men  of  such  sterling  worth. 
We  therefore  omit  here  the  customary  guide-book 
quotations  from  oratorical  effusions  delivered  at  the 
various  celebrations,  effusions  that  are  sadly  at  war 
with  history  and  fact. 

Having  landed  at  Plymouth,  December  22d,  (now 
called  Forefathers*  day)  on  the  25th  they  commenced 
a  small  storehouse.  It  being  Christmas  day  the  Cap- 
tain of  the  Mayflower  treated  the  people  with  beer. 
Three  days  later,  the  entire  company  was  divided  into 
famili<^ct  and  land  assigned  to  each,  though  a  large 
portion  of  the  people  still  remained  on  board  the 
Mayflower,  then  anchored  in  the  harbor.  On  the  first 
Sunday  spent  here  only  a  part  of  the  company  was 
left  behind.  They  had  no  minister,  as  Elder  Robin- 
son had  been  left  behind ;  yet  many  of  the  pictures  of 


'    1 11 


1, 


? 


'  'if 


92 


Massachusetts  Bay. 


our  day  represent  one  of  the  company,  clad  in  ecclesi- 
astical garb.  Mr.  Cushman  gave  the  people  "  lay- 
preaching." 

During  the  first  winter  and  spring  disease  raged, 
and  Governor  Carver  and  about  fifty  others  died.  Ou 
March  IGth,  the  famous  Samoset  (see  p.  225)  entered 
their  settlement  and  gave  the  memorable  salute,  "Wel- 
come, Englishmen  I"  On  April  5th,  the  Mayflower 
returned  to  England,  having  lost  a  large  part  of  her 
crew.  This  season,  however,  they  began  planting 
corn  and  gained  a  fair  crop.  In  course  of  time  a  fort 
was  built  on  what  is  now  Burial  Hill,  and  all  due 
precaution  was  taken  against  the  Indians — and,  through 
sickness  and  sorrow  and  disaster,  the  Colony  gradually 
attained  to  considerable  strength,  until  it  was  finally 
able  to  prosecute  various  industries  with  much  success. 

For  the  story  of  the  Pilgrims,  the  reader  should 
resort  to  the  original  accounts  in  "  Mourt's  Relation," 
and  in  the  histories  of  Winslow  and  Winthrop,  eschew- 
ing the  trashy  glosses  of  those  descendants  of  the  Pil- 
grims who  have  departed  from  the  ancestral  ways. 

A  day  in  Plymouth  aflords  no  little  pleasure.  First 
of  all,  the  scenery  around  the  town  is,  in  many  re- 
spects, very  charming.  One  view,  across  the  harbor, 
of  "Captain's  Hill"  is  said  to  resemble  the  Bay  of 
Naples. 

Excursions  of  all  sorts  await  the  visitor,  both  on 
land  and  water.  Besides  the  well  known  Billington 
Sea,  there  are  over  two  hundred  ponds  within  the 


>  # 


Massachusetts  Bay. 


93 


»> 


lirst 
re- 
)or, 
of 


limits  of  the  town  ;  and  one  can  fish  at  will  in  cither 
fresh  water  or  salt.  Then  the  visitor  will  desire  to 
visit  Burial  Hill  where  the  ashes  of  the  old  Forefath- 
ers rest ;  the  Court  House  where  are  shown  the  orig- 
inal Colony  Records  and  the  Charter ;  the  Pilgrim 
boulder  where  the  wanderers  landed,  and  which  is 
now  covered  with  a  lofty  canopy  of  stone :  and,  lost  of 
all,  Pilgrim  Hall,  stored  with  relics  that  have  come 
down  to  us  from  the  olden  days.  Here  is  seen  a  large 
picture  of  the  "Landing  of  the  Pilgrims,"  which 
represents  them  stepping  on  shore,  arrayed  in  unusu- 
ally good  clothes  and  with  spotless  linen,  the  place 
being  overhung  by  bold  cliffs  of  rocks ;  for  artists  and 
poets  will  insist  upon  the  rocks,  which,  in  the  town  of 
Plymouth,  are  as  rare  as  diamonds.  A  smaller  pic- 
ture of  the  Landing  also  shows  the  harbor  dotted  with 
very  dangerous  looking  obstructions  of  the  same  gran- 
itic character.  These  things  ap])ear  to  have  been 
fancied  by  those  who  are  incapable  of  discovering 
wherein  the  great  virtues  of  the  Plymouth  Brownists 
lay,  and  suppose  they  demonstrate  a  heroic  character 
by  showing  the  many  real  and  imaginary  dangers 
which  they  encountered ;  whereas,  as  regards  physical 
danger,  the  settlers  encountered  less  than  many  who 
had  ranged  upon  the  coast  for  the  previous  hundred 
years,  attracted  thither  by  smaller  considerations. 

Among  the  relics  in  Pilgrim  Hall  may  bo  seen 
"  the  sword  of  Miles  Standish,"  though  the  Massa- 
chusetts Historical  Society  at  Boston  shows,  oddly 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0 


I.I 


1.25 


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IM 

2.2 


2.0 


111= 

1-4    ill  1.6 


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/a 


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^ 


/A 


Q- 


i^ 


94 


Massachusetts  Bay, 


enough,  also,  "  the  sword  of  Miles  Standish/'  The 
visitor  can  here  sit  in  "  Governor  Carver's  Chair,' 
and  inspect  any  number  of  lesser  relics  of  genuine 
interest.  In  front  of  the  Hall,  surrounded  by  an  iron 
fence,  is  a  piece  of  the  original  Rock  of  the  size  of  a 
millstone,  which  was  detached  from  the  original  mass 
in  1776,  and  which  lay  for  some  time  at  the  base  of 
the  Liberty  pole,  erected  by  revolutionary  patriots 
during  the  war. 

Not  far  from  the  Hall,  and  opposite  the  depot,  is 
the  well  known  Samoset  House,  the  principal  hotel  in 
the  town ;  but  a  drive  of  five  or  six  miles  will  take 
one  to  the  Clifford  House,  beautifully  situated  beyond 
the  harbor  on  the  Bay  Shore.  Here,  though  unwil- 
lingly, we  must  drop  the  subject  of  Massachusetts 
Bay. 


CAPE     COD, 


CHAPTER   VII. 


Pro  vtncetown— Highland  Light— Wellflset—Eastham 
—Orleans— Brewster— Harwich— Chatham — Malabab 
—Dennis— Yarmouth— Barnstable  —  Sandwich— Monu- 
ment. 

|E  next  turn  to  the  quaint  old  region  of 
Cape  Cod,  which,  we  used  to  be  told,  was 
discovered  by  Bartholomew  Gosnold,  in 
the  year  1602.     Prior  to  this,  the  coast 
was  well  known. 

In  the  eleventh  century  the  Northmen  in  passing 
called  it  Wonder-strand,  because,  as  they  say  in  the 
Sagas,  they  were  so  long  in  passing  by.  Among  the 
navigators  who  visited  the  region  at  an  early  day 
was  the  French  pilot,  John  Allfonsee,  employed  by 
the  famous  Sire  Roberval.  After  Gosnold's  day 
the  coast  was  frequently  visited  until  the  year  1620, 
when,  on  the  eleventh  of  November,  the  Mayflower 
dropped  anchor  in  the  harbor  of  Provincetown.  Here 
the  Pilgrims  drew  up  their  articles  of  agreement,  and 
elected  their  first  Governor,  John  Carver,  "  a  pious 
and  well  approved  gentleman."  But,  as  Plymouth 
was  finally  selected  as  the  place  of  settlement  for  the 


96 


Cape  Cod. 


infant  colony,  this  part  of  the  Cape  was  abaiidoued  to 
the  Indians,  and  it  was  not  until  the  year  1700  that 
Truro  attracted  the  attention  of  the  people. 

The  whale  and  other  fisheries  furnish  employment 
either  directly  or  indirectly  for  a  majority  of  the  peo- 
ple o^  the  Cape ;  though  considerable  good  farming  is 
done,  and  no  less  than  one  third  of  the  land  is  under 
improvement.  The  people  are  honest,  temperatt 
bold,  hardy  and  enterprising.  The  language  of  Ed- 
mund Burke  may  justly  be  applied  to  them  when  he 
says  :  "  There  is  no  sea  that  is  not  vexed  by  their 
fisheries;  no  climate  that  is  not  a  witness  of  their 
toil." 

Communication  is  maintained  with  the  Cape  both 
by  the  railroad,  and  by  the  steamer  George  Shattuck, 
which  runs  direct  from  Boston  to  Provincetown,  mak- 
ing the  trip  in  about  five  hours. 

On  landing  in  the  fish-curing  season,  when  whole 
cargoes  from  the  Banks  are  on  the  flakes,  we  imagine 
that  the  forty  different  smells  of  Cologne  have  been 
concentrated  into  one.  Add  to  this  what  Crabbe 
calls, 

«  *'  The  pungent  odour  of  o'er  boiling  tar," 


and  the  effluvium  is  complete.  Yet  this  season  of 
vile  smells  is,  on  the  whole,  short,  and  even  then  liio 
odors  are  confined  to  the  vicinity  of  the  strand.  In  a 
very  short  time,  the  tourist  learns  that  he  has  fallen 
upon  an  agreeable  and  unique  place.     Much  of  the  * 


V'"'''""'"' ' '''""■  ■  . .  ^^Tw^iitV^."'  1     y'l^^-^X,  l|\f'  " 


Cape  Cod, 


97 


3d  to 
that 

ment 
!  peo- 
iiig  is 
ander 
leratt 
f  Ed- 
en he 
^  their 
t  their 

3  both 

attuck, 

,mak- 

whole 
lagine 
been 
Jrabbe 


3on  of 

3n  liiO 

In  a 

fallen 

)f  the* 


formed  barrenness  has  disappeared,  and,  in  looking 
down  upon  the  town  from  High  Pole  Hill,  the  houses, 
in  many  cases,  appear  to  be  well  nigh  lost  in  the 
foliage.  We,  however,  speak  of  the  "  formed  barren- 
ness," without  forgetting  that  the  Pilgrims  reported 
the  soil  rich,  and  a  "spit"  (spade)  deep  with  earth. 
Vandalism  made  Cape  Cod  what  it  is.  The  early 
inhabitants  cut  down  the  forests,  and  everyv.here 
exposed  the  country  to  the  i-avages  of  the  drifting 
sand  from  the  shore,  so  that  at  last  a  portion  of  the 
Cape  has  well  nigh  been  buried.  The  people  are  now 
laboring  bravely  to  rescue  the  soil  from  its  encroach- 
ments. The  woods  at  the  rear  of  the  town  are  being 
carefully  preserved,  and  already  there  is  a  considera- 
ble growth  of  pine  and  oak,  some  of  the  latter  spread- 
ing full  fifty  feet.  In  the  town  itself  a  few  trees  have 
attained  to  splendid  proportions.  We  saw  a  number 
of  willows  about  three  feet  in  diameter. 

We  have  already  alluded  to  High  Pole  Hill,  where 
the  Town  Hall  stands.  This,  according  to  the  Coast 
Survey,  is  ninety-eight  feet  above  the  sea.  You 
arrive  at  the  top  v/ith  both  shoes  filled  with  sand,  and 
find  that  Provincetown  is  a  narrow  tongue  of  land 
something  in  the  form  of  a  ram's  horn,  having  a  range 
of  hills  running  through  the  northern  part  of  its 
longer  axis.  But  let  us  go  up  into  the  observatory  of 
the  Town  Hall  which  forms  a  splendid  outlook.  To- 
wards the  ocean  side,  in  the  direction  of  Race  Point, 
are  several  ponds,  the  largest  of  which  is  Shank  Paint  - 

7 


98 


Cape  Cod. 


ers,  and  all  abound  in  lilies.  The  eminence  to  the 
east  is  "  Mount  Ararat."  But  here,  gentle  reader, 
give  place  to  no  unseasonable  ideas  of  towering 
height.  This  is  by  no  means  the  lofty  mountain  upon 
which  Noah's  Ark  grounded.  The  summit  of  Ararat 
is  only  one  hundred  feet  above  the  sea.  "Mount 
Gilboa "  there  by  its  side  is  six  feet  higher.  These 
are  the  highest  poiLts  in  the  vicinity,  and  are  covered 
with  beach  grass,  whortleberry  bushes,  and  a  few 
oaks  and  cedars.  Look'ng  down  upon  the  town  be- 
low, you  see  a  thousand  evidences  of  a  persevering 
and  inventive  industry,  ^he  wharves,  the  stores, 
fish-houses,  and  the  marine  railway  abound  with 
laborers,  and  activity  prevails  in  every  department. 
A  large  number  of  vessels  lie  in  the  port,  "but  the 
chief  attraction  on  the  water  is  the  number  of  boats, 
especially  in  the  fall,  at  the  black  fish  season.  Here 
you  see  the  waters  in  which  the  Mayflower  moored, 
after  finding  shelter  from  the  storms. 

The  people  of  Provincetown  are  everyway  highly 
intelligent  and  wide  awake,  having  their  schools, 
handsome  churches,  bank,  and  weekly  newspaper. 

There  are  various  small  hotels  and  boarding  houses 
for  the  entertainment  of  visitors  tho,  year  round.  The 
best  in  the  place,  however,  is  "  GifFord's,"  specially 
designed  for  the  comfort  of  the  summer  tourist.  It 
occupies  the  best  situation  in  town,  with  invariably 
pure  air,  and  a  cool  sea  breeze.  The  table  is  excel- 
lent, and  if  the  old  inhabitants  could  return  and  look 


Cape  Cod. 


99 


•» 


0  the 
eader, 
(rering 

1  upon 
A^rarat 
Mount 
These 
overed 
a  few 

?\rn  be- 
Bvering 
stores, 
cl    with 
Lrtment. 
but  the 
f  boats, 
Here 
moored, 

highly 
schools, 
per. 

houses 
id.  The 
specially 
rist.  It 
variably 
IS  excel- 
,nd  look 


into  the  dining  room,  to  see  well-to-do  descendants 
dining  handsomely  with  full  courses,  wherein  fresh 
sal»:ion  takes  the  place  of  salt  cod,  they  would  feel 
some  little  surprise. 

Many  visitors  pass  the  entire  summer  here,  but  we 
must  journey  on  to  Highland  Light,  about  five  miles 
distant.  In  doing  so  we  may  take  the  coach,  or  go 
on  foot  among  the  hills,  following  in  the  track  of 
Miles  Standish's  expedition  to  Pamet  Harbor  in 
1620,  while  the  Pilgrims  were  resting  in  Province- 
town  harbor. 

The  explorers  vere  sixteen  in  number,  every  man 
haviug  "  his  musket,  sword,  and  corselet."  To  these 
were  "  adjoined  for  counsel  and  advice,"  William 
Bradford,  Stephen  Hopkins,  and  Edward  Tilley.  It 
was  on  the  fifteenth  of  November  that  they  were  set 
ashore  (probably  near  the  western  extremity  of  the 
harbor),  where  they  formed  in  single  file,  with  their 
doughty  little  Captain  at  the  head.  A  strange-look- 
ing band,  no  doubt,  cased  as  they  were  in  their 
ancique  armor  aad  shouldering  their  cumbersome 
matchlocks.  The  expedition  marched  along  the 
shore  for  a  mile,  which  brought  them  to  a  point  near 
the  centre  of  the  present  town.  Here  "  they  espied 
five  or  six  people  with  a  dog  coming  towards  them, 
who  were  savages ;  who,  when  they  saw  them,  ran 
into  the  wood  and  whistled  the  dog  after  them." 
Standish  at  once  followed,  but  could  not  overtake 
them.    The  day  it  appears  was  soon  spent,  and  they 


il     l.^ltMi 


100 


Cape  Cod. 


encamped  for  the  night,  near  Stout's  Creek,  which  ig 
now  filled  with  sand.  When  morning  dawned,  they 
followed  the  trail  of  the  Indians  across  the  neck 
of  land  which  connects  the  two  townships.  This 
neck  is  from  three  to  four  miles  in  length  and  of  great 
elevation,  being  composed  of  pure  white  sand.  Sev- 
enty years  ago  it  was  studded-  with  stumps  of  trees 
which  had  been  choked  by  the  upward  march  of  the 
drift,  but  every  vestige  of  these  long  since  disappear- 
ed. This  elongated  hill  forms  a  most  impressive 
object.  Viewed  at  early  dawn,  when  the  fog  from 
the  Atlantic,  purpling  in  the  rising  sun,  bathes  the 
vast  sand-drift  in  a  soft  amethystine  light,  the  sight  is 
one  capable  of  exciting  the  deepest  admiration.  Such 
must  this  display  ever  appear  to  all  impressible  minds, 
whether  viewed  in  the  purpling  light  of  morning,  in 
the  bright  effulgence  of  the  sun's  meridian  splendor, 
or  at  evening  when  the  naked  waste  gloams  fitfully  in 
the  weird,  supernatural  twilight.  Then  the  solitary 
and  belated  tourist,  as  the  solemn  voice  of  the  surf 
salutes  his  ear,  will  often  start  involuntarily  ;  and  as 
the  dim  forms  darkle  around  him,  the  air  seems  to 
grow  thick  and  tangible,  and  he  becomes  half  con- 
scious of  the  presence  of  some  great  all-pervading 
spirit. 

Following  the  uourse  of  Standish,  within  the  sound 
of  the  sea  for  about  two  miles,  we  arrive  opposite  a 
cliff,  projecting  into  the  inclosed  harbor,  and  divid- 
ing it  into  two  forks,  which  here  assume  the  char- 


Cape  Cod, 


lOI 


ch  is 

they 
neck 

This 
great 

Sev- 

trees 
)f  the 
3pear- 
essive 

from 
33  the 
ght  is 

Such 
minds, 
Ing,  in 
endor, 

ally  in 
olitary 
le  surf 
md  as 
jms  to 
f  con- 
vading 

sound 
osite  a 
divid- 
char- 


acter  of  salt  meadows.  By  the  early  settlers  this 
cliff  was  called  "  Cormorant  Hill,"  but  by  the  Indians 
it  was  known  as  "  Kerconcoget."  In  the  year  1714, 
a  whale's  jawbone,  "  set  in  the  ground  near  a  red  oak 
stump,"  at  the  easterly  side  of  this  elevation,  marked 
the  boundary  line  between  "  Province  Land,"  (Prov- 
incetown)  and  the  present  town  of  Truro.  It  is  now 
called  "  High  Head."  Two  miles  further  on,  we 
reach  the  "  Head  of  the  Meadow,"  one  mile  from  the 
Light.  Here  we  leave  the  Pilgrims  to  go,  in  imagi- 
nation, southward,  via  Pond  village,  to  Pamet,  where 
they  help  themselves  to  the  Indians'  corn,  and  then 
return  to  the  Mayflower, — while  we  go  on  to  Small's, 
the  traveller's  Ilest  of  these  parts. 

With  larger  accommodation,  this  place  would  be- 
come the  favorite  resort  of  a  multitude,  as  it  is  now  of 
only  a  few.  It  is  a  singular  spot,  in  every  respect, 
and  those  who  resort  to  it  come  summer  after  summer 
with  increasing  satisfaction.  Here  one  may  be  as 
unfashionable  as  he  pleases. 

Near  by  are  the  Cliffs  of  Highland  Light,  a  delight- 
ful situation  from  whence  to  view  both  land  and  sea. 
Standing  upon  the  precipitous  cliffs,  which  rose  to 
Gosnold's  view  a  "mighty  headland,"  we  peer  far 
out  over  the  blue  Atlantic.  This  is  the  Land's  End 
of  Massachusetts ;  and  the  waves  roll,  unbroken  by 
reef  or  skerry,  between  the  beach  down  at  our  feet 
and  the  Land's  End  of  Cornwall. 

Looking  down  the  dizzy  cliffs,  the  shining  shore  is 


102 


Cape  Cod. 


seen  below.  At  low  water,  there  is  fine  surf  bathing 
behind  the  bars.  Generally  there  may  be  seen  along 
the  shore  the  remains  of  some  wreck.  And  speaking 
of  wrecks,  reminds  us  of  the  stormy  days  spent  here, 
in  which  we  vindicated  the  belief  of  the  Ettrick 
Shepherd,  who  declares  that  there  is  after  all  no  such 
thing  as  bad  weather. 

Supposing  it  to  be  such  a  day,  therefore,  we  will 
make  our  way  against  the  rising  gale  to  the  cliff, 
where  the  Lighthouse  stands,  and  take  a  view  from 
thence. 

"  Come  on  Sir,  here's  the  place :—Stau(l  still;  how  fearful 
Aud  dizzy  'lis  to  cast  one's  eyes  so  low." 


But  you  need  not  fear  being  blown  off,  as  the  wind  is 
from  the  sea.  This  place  is  called  the  Clay  Pounds. 
A  short  distance  to  the  left  we  may  find  a  zig-zag 
path  that  leads  down  to  the  shore  to  a  point  where 
the  beach  widens,  and  where  you  may  venture  with 
perfect  safety,  and  get  a  view  of  the  face  of  the  cliffs. 
They  prove  to  be  composed  chiefly  of  clays,  variegated 
by  oxides  of  iron  and  manganese,  and  are  said  by  the 
geologist  to  be  identical  with  the  clays  at  Gay  Head, 
though  as  yet  none  of  those  marvellous  fossils  which 
abound  at  the  Vineyard  have  been  found  here.  The 
gale  increases  in  force,  and  the  waves,  now  "  big  with 
uncommon  thunders,"  burst  upon  the  beach,  with  a 
sound  that  is  almost  appalling.  Here  there  are  no 
rock-ribbed  Bhores  to  contest  the  passage  of  the  waves, 


Cape  Cod. 


103 


•*i 


.thing 
along 
aking 
;  here, 
ittrick 
0  such 

e  will 
e  cliff, 
^  from 


rful 

wind  is 
'ounds. 
zig-zag 
where 
e  with 
le  cliffs, 
legated 
by  the 
Head, 
which 
.    The 
lig  with 
with  a 
are  no 
waves, 


so  that  the  surf  presents  an  aspect  totally  differcjit 
from  that  seen  at  such  places  as  Nahant,  where  the 
flinty  bastions  of  trap  and  greenstone  are  flung  out  to 
meet  the  billows  half  way,  and  batter  them  in  pieces. 
Hero  the  waves  break  tinmolested  on  the  smooth, 
sandy  beach,  presenting  at  your  feet  a  miscellaneous 
offering  of  jasper  pebbles,  quahogs  and  silvery  mus- 
sels. If  you  want  that  bit  of  jasper,  seize  it,  for  the 
sea  never  bandys  compliments  or  urges  its  gifts  upon 
the  most  sincere  admirer,  and  the  undertow  of  that 
huge  tenth  wave  now  coming  will  draw  the  pebble 
back  in  its  fearful  maw  and  grind  it  up  with  a  cart- 
load of  its  fellows. 

But  if  you  do  not  like  a  stormy,  take  a  fine  autumn 
day,  and  wander  awaji  over  the  dunes  among  the 
beach-plum  bushes,  or  through  the  wood-lands.  Loiter 
there  on  a  hazy  afternoon,  and  observe  the  magic  of 
light  as  it  plays  on  the  russet  heath.  How  delicious 
the  crisp  of  the  moss  to  our  metropolitan  feet !  The 
haycocks,  the  saline  spoils  of  the  meadow,  gleam  like 
hives  of  gold.  How  the  whortleberry  flames !  See 
that  blazing  bramble-bush,  all  on  fire  from  the  slant- 
ing rays  of  the  declining  sun,  which  now  looks 

*'  With  the  eye  of  lovo  through  golden  vapors  around  him,'* 

and  transfigures  every  object.  The  effect  is  soothing 
in  an  eminent  degree,  and  suggestive  of  the  calm  ex- 
perienced by  Frithiof  when  he  came  repentant  to  Bal- 
der's  sacred  fane : — 


I04 


Cape  Cod. 


■    i.. 


"  Tea,  'twas  as  he  felt  tlie  heart  of  nature  beat 
Responsive  to  his  own;  as  tf,  deep-mov'd  he'd  prees 
In  brotherly  embrace  Heiniskriiigla's  Orb,  and  Peace 
Straight  make  with  all  the  world." 

On  such  days  occurs  the  mirage^  than  which  noth- 
ing is  more  frequent  or  beautiful.  The  Cape  here  is 
hemmed  in  by  two  atmospheres,  varying  greatly  in 
clearness  and  density.  Hence  the  variable  tempera- 
ture will  often  play  the  most  extravagant  pranks  with 
laws  of  light,  and  sometimes  lead  the  stranger  almost 
to  doubt  his  own  identity.  Often,  on  such  a  day, 
when  earth  and  sky  are  bathed  in  a  hazy,  dreamy, 
undulating  light,  the  glowing  heath  will  rise  all  around 
you,  and  every  object  assume  the  strangest  phase. 
Seaward  and  landward  the  effect  is  the  same.  On 
the  ocean,  phantom  ships  are  seen  jrowding  on  sail 
for  phantom  ports ;  while  in  the  distant  bay  are  dis- 
torted spectral  shapes  that  appear  sufficiently  gro- 
tesque for  the  wraith  of  the  Mayflower,  and  we  almost 
expect  to  see  Miles  Standish  and  his  mail-clad  retinue 
issue  from  out  the  neighboring  woods. 

There  is  good  shooting  in  this  vicinity  at  the  sea- 
son, though  High  Head  is  the  favorite  stopping  place 
of  the  fowler.  The  antiquary  will  also  find  a  plenty 
to  do  digging  among  the  shell-heaps,  or  looking  up 
the  Indian  graves ;  and  all  will  find  abundant  rest  and 
quiet,  as  the  community  of  the  Light  is  composed  of 
only  five  or  six  houses. 

Truro,  in  which  township  Highland  Light  is  includ- 
ed, has  seen  many  reverses.    It  has  sad  and  touching 


\1  r'lifii  v:f|fc«-^*ii»«*^.'-ytyjb* 


^<:i^^  Cod, 


lOS 


sail 

dis- 

gro- 

llmost 

stinue 

sea- 
I  place 
llenty 

g  "P 
It  and 

jd  of 

tclud- 
jhing 


memories,  for  it  has  lost  as  many  as  sixty  of  its  best 
men  in  a  single  gale.  The  place  has  known  every 
variety  of  fortune,  and  scores  of  the  houses  in  the 
different  parts  of  the  town  have  been  taken  down  and 
removed  to  Provincetown.  Tourists  who  knew  the 
place  many  years  ago  find  it  greatly  changed  and,  on 
the  whole,  for  the  better — though  there  appears  to  be 
no  falling.off  of  the  sand.  This  reminds  us  of  the  re- 
mark of  one  who  says  :  "  Scenery  of  this  kind  would  be 
regarded  as  extremely  dreary,  were  not  the  desolation 
carried  to  such  an  extent  as  to  be  interesting  by  its 
novelty." 

The  annals  of  Truro,  in  common  with  those  of 
the  other  Cape  towns,  are  particularly  interesting ; 
and  those  who  desire  to  be  fully  informed,  should  con- 
sult Freeman's  History.  The  town  was  originally 
called  Dangerfield ;  its  Indian  name  was  PameL 
The  people,  until  recently,  preserved  the  old  Puritan 
element,  which  came  in  at  the  original  settlement  in 
1700, — in  a  remarkable  degree.  One  of  the  perqui- 
sites of  the  minister  was  the  dead  whales  that  drifted 
ashore.  One  of  the  old  pastors  was  famous  for  his 
prayers,  wherein  he  asked  for  a  "  side  wind,  so  that 
ships  might  pass  and  repass." 

Three-fourths  of  a  mile  from  the  Ligb*  is  prosper- 
ous "  Pond  Village,"  situated  around  the  borders  of  a 
swamp  to  whose  care  Miles  Standish  committed  a  ket- 
tle which  he  took  from  the  Indians  at  Pamet  Harbor. 

The  next  point  of  interest  is  Wellfleet,  about  fifteen 


■ 


\ 


io6 


Cape  Cod, 


\\i 


miles  from  Provincetowu,  which  is  reached  at  present 
by  stage,  though,  erelong,  the  railroad  will  be  com- 
pleted to  the  end  of  the  Cape.  On  our  way,  we  pass 
through  South  Truro  near  Pamet  Harbor.  On  the 
north  side  of  this  harbor  is  the  place  known  as  Corn- 
hill,  where  Miles  Standish  found  the  corn. 

As  we  proceed  from  the  vicinity  of  the  harbor,  the 
scrub  oaks  and  small  pines  are  in  many  places  super- 
seded by  forests^  and  the  country  becomes  more  rolling 
in  its  character.  From  the  top  of  the  coach,  the  tour- 
ist will  perceive  several  charming  little  lakes  or  ponds, 
formed  in  depressions  caused  by  vast  icebergs;  at 
least  so  Agassiz  says.  And,  for  the  time,  he  may 
imagine  that  he  has  been  utterly  deceived  in  regard 
to  the  character  of  Cape  Cod.  But  while  he  does  not 
return  to  the  desolation  which  marks  lower  portions 
of  the  Cape,  he  soon  loses  sight  of  this  really  charm- 
ing region,  and  finds  the  landscape  prosaic. 

At  Wellfieet,  he  repairs  to  ''  Holbrookes,"  or  some 
similar  place.  Wellfleet  is  a  thriving  community  de- 
voted to  the  fisheries.  The  harbor  is  somewhat  poor, 
and  at  low  tide  there  is  a  depressing  area  of  fiats,  yet 
one  who  likes  such  places  will  find  that  the  summer 
soon  slips  away.  There  is  fine  sailing  in  the  harbor, 
which  is  formed  by  Billingsgate  Point. 

Eastham  is  the  next  town,  famous  formerly  for  its 
Camp  meeting,  now  transferred  to  Yarmouth  ;  and  at 
the  end  of  ten  miles  from  Wellfieet,  in  a  direct  line, 
we  touch  Orleans.     The  next  station  is  Brewster, 


Cape  Cod. 


107 


Bseut 
com- 
pass 
Q  the 
Corn- 

or,  the 
super- 
rolling 
le  touv- 
•  ponds, 
rgs;  at 
he  may 

regard 
does  not 
portions 

charm- 

|or  some 
inity  de- 
lat  poor, 
[flats,  yet 
summer 
harbor, 

ly  for  its 
and  at 

L-ect  liiiCj 
Irewster, 


four  miles  further  on.  From  this  point  the  road  de- 
flects south,  five  miles  to  Harwich.  To  the  east  of 
Harwich  is  Chatham,  with  a  sandy  cape  known  as 
Malebar,  the  Mallebarre  of  Lescarhot  and  Champlain, 
near  which  place,  in  the  expedition  of  1G06,  they 
found  the  shallow  harbor  which  they  called  Port  For- 
tune. Many  changes  have  taken  place  since  that  day, 
and  it  would  now  be  almost  impossible  to  identify  the 
precise  spot. 

From  Harwich  to  Yarmouth  Junction,  passing 
through  Dennis,  is  about  ten  miles.  Three-fourths  of 
a  mile  from  the  Junction  are  the  grounds  of  the  Yar- 
mouth Camp-meeting,  which,  in  many  respects,  rivals 
that  of  Martha's  Vineyard.  The  village  of  Yarmouth 
is  also  situated  near  the  Junction. 

From  this  point  to  the  pleasant  and  flourishing 
town  of  Hyannis,  in  Barnstable,  the  distance  is  four 
miles ;  from  thence  there  remains  about  a  mile  to  the 
Port,  where  the  train  lands  the  tourist  on  the  wharf, 
and  he  can  step  directly  on  board  the  steamer,  which 
runs  to  Nantucket,  distant  thirty  miles.  Hyannis  has 
derived  its  prosperity  from  the  fisheries,  which,  in  the 
season,  give  the  harbor,  with  its  long  breakwater,  a 
lively  fippearance.  All  these  places  have  tb^  ordinary 
attractions  of  the  Cape  for  summer  visitors. 

Returning  to  Yarmouth  Junction,  we  proceed  two 
miles  to  Barnstable,  a  very  pleasant  tc  wn.  The  har- 
bor has  a  bar  in  front  which  will  not  admit  large  craft. 
To  West  Barnstable,  the  distance  is  four  miles ;  and 


I 


I 

X 


«t      ' 


1 08 


Cape  Cod. 


thence  to  Sandwich,  four  miles  more.  Here  are  the 
Glass  Works,  which  form  a  distinct  feature  in  the 
prosperity  of  the  place.  Six  miles  more  take  us  to 
the  village  of  Monument,  at  the  head  of  Buzzard's 
Bay. 

In  taking  this  tour  we  leave  the  Marshpee  Indian 
District  to  the  South,  as  well  as  Falmouth,  and  the 
village  and  harbor  of  Wood's  Hole,  which  are  included 
in  the  township. 

Monument  is  about  sixteen  miles  from  Wood's 
Hole,  and  Falmouth  is  about  twelve  miles.  The  lat- 
ter place  is  really  a  delightful  retreat  for  those  who 
love  a  quiet  summer.  Of  Wood's  Hole  and  Falmouth 
Heights,  and  Cotuit  Port,  we  shall  speak  in  the  fol- 
lowing chapter  on  Martha's  Vineyard. 


the 

the 

8  to 

Bird's 


MA  R  THA '  5     VINE  YARD, 


idian 
[  the' 
luded 

^ood's 
B  lat- 
5  who 
oaouth 
le  fol- 


CHAPTEE    VIII. 

Wood's  Hole— Falmouth  Heights  —  Cotuit  Poet- 
Holmes'  Hole  —  Oak  Bluffs  —  Camp  Meeting— Gay 
Head. 

ARTHA'S  VINEYARD  is  a  place  of  very 
superior  attractions,  and  is  reached  either 
from  New  Bedford  or  Wood's  Hole,  and 
in  both  cases  by  steamer.  The  distance 
from  New  Bedford  is  about  thirty  miles,  while  from 
Wood's  Hole  it  is  not  more  than  nine  or  ten.  The 
route  from  New  Bedford  affords  fine  views  of  various 
of  the  Elizabeth  Islands. 

But  before  crossing  Vineyard  Sound  we  should 
remember  that  we  have  to  visit  Falmouth  Heights, 
situated  on  a  bluff  overlooking  the  Sound.  As  a 
summer  resort  this  place  now  bids  fair  to  become  a 
rival  of  Martha's  Vineyard.  It  is  a  small  city  made 
lip  of  gems  of  summer  cottages,  and  is  almost  in  sight 
of  Falmouth  village,  with  which  it  is  connected  by 
carriages.  There  is  a  large  hotel  at  the  Heights,  and 
every  seaside  attraction  desirable.  The  extension  of 
the  Monument  Branch  of  the  Cape  Cod  Railroad, 
now  does  away  with  the  long  ride  in  the  coach,  zi 


i 


m 


1 . 


i:- 


no 


Martha's   Vineyard, 


the  present  distance  from  the  railroad  is  hardly  wordi 
mentioning. 

Farther  south  is  Cotuit  Port,  also  on  the  Sound, 
and  here  may  be  found  another  charming  summer 
resort,  where  one  can,  as  at  the  Heights,  live  at  a 
moderate  cost.  The  Sancuit  House  is  well  kept ;  and 
the  bathing  facilities  are  unequalled.  The  Port  is 
reached  by  stage,  the  place  being  situated  about  six 
miles  from  the  main  line  of  the  Cape  Cod  Railroad. 

Wood's  Hole  itself,  it  should  here  be  observed,  is  a 
delightful  little  place  in  which  to  summer,  with  its 
fine  air,  double  harbor,  excellent  drives  and  rambles, 
and  opportunities  for  fishing  and  yachting.  The  ex- 
tension of  the  Cape  Cod  Railroad  from  Monument 
has  rendered  it  more  accessible,  as  it  may  be  reached 
from  Boston  by  land.  It  is  also  the  new  point  of 
departure  for  Martha's  Vineyard.  Taking  the  steam- 
er at  this  place,  in  the  course  of  an  hour  we  find  our- 
selves at  the  landing  at  the  Vineyard,  which  for  many 
years  has  been  celebrated  as  the  place  for  the  annual 
camp  meeting. 

This  gathering  was  originally  commenced  by  a 
handful  of  the  powerful  denomination  of  Metho- 
dists, who  resorted  to  the  Vineyard  for  a  week 
of  prayer.  It  has  now,  however,  grown  to  be  a  place 
of  popular  resort,  and  thousands  come  here  for  the 
entire  summer,  living  in  tents  and  cottages,  which 
are  often  elegantly  furnished.  The  camp  meeting  is- 
still  maintained  for  ten  days,  in  the  month  of  Aug'ist. 


r^--':' 


[)rUi 

•und, 
amer 
at  a 
;  and 
)rt  is 
Lt  six 
ad. 

I,  is  a 
th  its 
mbles, 
le  ex- 
lUment 
eaclied 
)iiit  of 
steam- 
id  our- 
many 
annual 


by  a 
[etho- 
week 


ce 


for  the 
which 


ting 


Mofthds  Vineyard, 


\Xl 


18' 


LU 


g'iSt. 


Outside  of  the  grounds  expressly  devoted  to  camp 
meeting  purposes,  Oak  Blufis,  quite  a  large  town,  hai 
sprung  up,  with  well  kept  streets,  a  number  of  hotels, 
and  every  precaution  to  insure  order  and  comfort. 
This  remarkable  institution  must  be  seen  to  be  appre- 
dated,  as  the  place  is  really  a  wonder. 

After  touching  at  Wesleyau  Grove,  the  steamer 
goes  on  to  Edgartown,  a  quiet  place  a  few  miles  fur- 
ther on,  where  tourists  in  search  of  a  resting  place 
can  spend  a  few  weeks  to  great  advantage.  The 
place  is  well  supplied  with  boarding  houses  and 
hotels. 

But  for  those  who  may  not  care  for  the  gala  scenes 
of  Wesleyan  Grove,  Gay  Head,  at  the  west  end  of 
Martha's  Vineyard,  will  present  considerable  attrac- 
tion, it  being,  on  the  whole,  a  very  remarkable  place. 
In  going  thither,  the  best  point  of  departure  will  be 
Holmes'  Hole,  a  town  dose  by  the  camp  meeting 
landing.  The  best  way  of  reaching  Gay  Head  is  to 
go  by  land.  The  journey  to  and  fro,  with  the  time 
spent  there,  will  occupy  a  l|pg  day.  Yet  the  idr  on 
the  island  is  bracing,  and  the  visitor  often  does  here 
not  feel  the  fatigue  as  elsewhere.  The  Clifib  derive 
their  name  from  the  variegated  clays  of  which  they 
are  composed,  and  which,  under  the  proper  conditions, 
glow  with  rainbow  hues. 

The  road  thither  passes  for  a  long  distance  through 
the  stunted  oaks  which  everywhere  abound,  and 
which,  in  a  great  measure  fix  the  character  of  the 


112 


Martha's   Vineyard. 


woodlands.  In  this  part  of  the  island,  strangers 
will  admire  the  trailing  mosses  with  which  the  trees 
are  festooned,  and  which  give  such  a  solemn  fune- 
real aspect  to  the  gnarled,  twisted,  and  wind-blown 
oaks.  One  might  imagine  that  the  "  spirit  of  the  wood" 
were  dead,  or  that  some  Dryad  or  Hamadryad  had 
recently  deceased,  and  that  thr  rural  court  had  put  on 
mourning.  Elsewhere,  the  prospect  is  more  varied 
and  attractive.  From  an  eminence,  we  had  frequent 
glimpses  of  the  ocean,  vhile  all  along  the  route,  the 
eye  was  pleased  with  the  little  lakes  nestling  among 
the  green  hills  or  bordered  by  handsome  fields  and 
orchards.  Many  of  the  residences  scattered  over 
the  island  give  evidence  of  genuine  taste  on  the  part 
of  the  proprietors.  This  is  evinced  more  particularly 
in  the  disposition  of  the  trees,  shrubbery  and  the  well 
kept  lawns.  At  the  present  time  agriculture  is  the 
chief  pursuit,  though  at  a  former  period  there  must 
have  been  a  larger  degree  of  fruitfulness.  One 
marked  feature  in  the  landscape,  is  the  immense  num- 
ber of  huge  boulders,  whicji  were  droppec'  out  of  the 
maw  of  some  post-pliocene  deluge  and  scattered, 
broadcast  over  the  face  of  the  country.  At  a  dis- 
tance some  of  these  boulders  appear  like  houses  built 
into  the  hillside,  or  again  like  herds  of  grazing  ele- 
phants. 

The  west  end  of  the  Island  is  appropriated  to  the 
Gay  Head  Indians,  who  own  in  common  every  part  of 
the  territory  which  is  not  actually  under  cultivation. 


Martha's  Viucyard. 


•»■'  the  naU.es  appea.ont  Ze"  ^tr  "  ''''' ' 
and  decorous  rersons,  havin/„o  L  ^  '""^  ""P"'' 
and  using  less  war  „a  „,7h  •""''""•""^  customs, 

The  approach  to  The  Chff  ""^  "  "'^  "''"«•      ' 
picturesque.   For  the  iL Vf   "  .f<"»«'^hat  wild  and 

and  rocky,  and  witth>t,lf  ^"  """  ""^  '°'"' '»  -"gh 
the  land  rises  Jdull  "^  "'"  ^'s''"'°"^« 

'"e  edge  o.  theS::^; -:rio:d"T  r  ^^ '° 

numerous  herds  and  flocks       n  ^     ,  P''''"''»««  ^r 

obliged   to  moderate  hi  pace      n   "f  ?:''^''"<'"'-  " 
now:  P"""^-     %e'-s   lines   avail 

Health'.  cLerW  tale"™"'  No™.M.„, 

From  the  door  of  tho  v 
prospect  is  beautiful.     Land  tt      "'/'  """"^^  '^^ 
out  as  far  as  the  eye  can  rp!'J      /""^  '"*  '"«"=''«'i 
picturesque  is  neve    wearof 't,"      -'^  '"^^^  ''^  "^^ 
-Pon  the  edge  of  thlc  iff  K  f  "'""■     ^°"  """-^       ' 
--Of  it.  \et  ust  tthr"^  ^-  -  ^-% 

a wXtl^^^^^^^      '"«  ^over  Cliffs  applies 
his  sable  cousin  th7  V     .    '^'  '^""^'^  ""^  <=~'^  and 


114 


Marthds  Vineyard, 


us  descend.  T"  ceed  carefully,  else  you  will  "  toj#ple 
down  headlong."  The  way  lies  ihrougl?  a  gorge  in 
the  cliff,  in  which,  according  to  the  Indian  tradition,  a 
giant  named  Manshop  once  lived.  This  person  was 
friendly  to  the  Indians  and  used  to  catch  whales  for 
them,  and  afterwards  pall  up  the  trees  by  the  roots  to 
make  a  fire  to  roast  them  with.  Here  in  the  upturned 
strata  may  be  found  the  bones  of  the  seal,  the  whale 
and  the  walrus,  together  with  great  quantities  of 
lignite,  a  fossil  wood  resembling  charcoal.  These 
remains,  the  simple  Indian  thought  attested  the  truth 
of  his  story.  Fifty  years  ago  the  people  used  to  tell 
visitors  that  flames  were  occasionally  seen  to  issue 
from  this  gorge.  Though  a  few  bones  have  been 
found  resembling  the  remains  of  the  monkey,  the 
disciple  of  Darwin  never  comes  here  in  search  of  his 
ancestors. 

But  now  we  reach  the  smooth,  hard  beach,  and 
instead  of  the  "  murmuring  surge"  we  listen  to  the 
^'  loud-sounding-sea,"  and  gaze  upward  with  admiration 
upon  the  beautiful  cliffs  which  reflect  all  the  hues  of 
the  rainbow.  Parties  frequently  sail  round  the  Head 
on  purpose  to  gain  a  view  of  it  from  the  sea.  They 
are  said  to  appear  to  ihe  greatest  advantage  streaming 
with  moisture  after  a  storm,  and  at  sunset,  when  they 
^leam  with  crimson  and  amethyst  The  clifis  owe 
their  brilliancy  to  the  marls,  clay  and  green  sand.  The 
clays  are  stained  with  iron,  but  also  contain  thirty  per 
cent,  of  pure  alum.     Cargoes  are  purchased  of  the 


Marthds   Vineyard. 


115 


and 
the 
Iration 
les  of 
Head 
They 
iming 
they 
owe 
The 
^yper 
)f  the 


proprietors  for  the  purpose  of  extracting  this  valuable 
mineral ;  and  at  the  time  <ii:  our  visit  piles  of  the  clay, 
destined  for  Salem's  drowsy  dock,  lay  upon  the  beach 
awaiting  transportation. 

We  spent  but  two  or  three  hours  here,  though  every 
hour  ought  to  have  been  a  week.  If  some  more 
expeditious  method  could  be  devised  by  which  to 
reach  this  part  of  the  island,  thousands  would  soon 
find  their  way  hither,  and  Gay  Head  would  become 
one  of  our  most  popular  summer  resorts.  It  was  with 
great  reluctance  that  we  left  the  beach  and  climbed  up 
through  the  slippery  gorge  where  old  Man  shop  is  said 
to  have  dispensed  s''ch  elegant  hospitalities  to  his 
friends  the  Indians. 

Perhaps,  however,  the  reader  after  all  would  like  a 
description  of  Gay  Head.  In  that  case  we  can 
hardly  do  l)etter  than  to  give  some  lines  from  Tal- 
fourd's  description  of  Alum  Bay  in  the  Isle  of  Wight, 
where  we  find  the  same  geological  formation.  He 
says  of  Nature : 

Within  the  foldings  of  the  coast  she  breathes 
Hues  of  fantastic  beauty.  Thread  the  gorge. 
And,  turning  on  the  beach,  while  the  low  sea 
Spread  out  in  mirror'd  gentleness,  allows  ' 

A  path  along  the  curving  edge,  behold 
Such  dazzling  glory  of  prismatic  tint 
Flung  o'er  the  lofty  crescent,  as  assures 
The  Orient  gardens  where  Aladdin  pluck'd 
Jewels  for  fruit,  no  fable,— as  if  earth, 
Provolc'd  to  emulate  the  rainbow  gauds 
In  lasting  mould,  had  snatch'd  its  floating  hues 
And  flx'd  them  here;  for  never  o'er  the  bay 


I  I 


1 16  Marthas   Vineyard, 

Flow  a  oolestial  aroh  of  brighter  grace 
Than  the  gay  coast  exhibits;  here  the  cliff 
Flaunts  in  a  brighter  yellow  than  the  Btrcam 
Of  Tiber  wafted;  then  with  softer  ehadcs 
Dcclincato  pearly  white,  which  blushes  eoon 
With  pink  as  delicate  as  autumn's  rose 
Wears  on  its  scattering  leaves ;  anon  the  shore 
Beoedes  into  a  fane-lilce  doll,  where  stain'd 
With  black,  as  if  with  sable  tapestry  hung, 
Like  pinnacles  rise  taper ;  further  yet 
Swells  ont  in  solemn  mass  a  dusky  veil 
Of  purple  crimson,— while  bright  streaks  of  red 
Start  out  in  gleamliko  tint,  to  tell  of  veins 
Which  the  slow-winning  sea,  in  distant  times 
Shall  bure  to  unborn  gazers. 


NANTUCKET, 


CHAPTER    IX. 


SiAscoNSET— The  Athan^um— Whaling— Fishing. 

ANTUCKET  is  an  island  about  fourteen 
miles  long  and  three  or  four  wide,  lying 
out  in  the  Atlantic  thirty  miles  from 
Cape  Cod.  The  morning  train  from  Bos- 
ton leaves  the  tourist  on  the  wharf  at  Ilyannis, 
where  he  takes  the  steamer,  which,  in  about  three 
hours,  lands  him  on  the  island.  Here  he  will  find  a 
comfortable  and  well  managed  hotel,  the  Ocean  House. 
Nantucket  was  formerly  a  live  place,  but  the  de- 
cline of  the  whale  fisheries  took  away  a  great  portion 
of  the  business,  and  to-day  it  is  a  quaint  old  resort, 
which,  but  for  summer,  would  not  exist.  The  place 
was  first  settled  in  1659,  and  the  local  guide  book 
which  may  be  had  for  a  shilling,  will  (eloquently) 
describe  all  that  the  tourist  is  expected  to  see.  The 
first  thing,  however,  that  one  should  do  is  to  go  over 
to  Siasconset  and  view  the  beach  and  the  breakers. 
His  own  stout  legs  will  "  do"  the  requisite  distance,  if 
he  scorns  the  aid  of  the  beach  wagon.  But,  eschew- 
ing Siasconset,  ho  may  wander  ^t  his  own  sweet  will, 


ii8 


Nantucket, 


i 


and  find  pleasant  scenes  and  sweet  and  fresh  air 
almost  anywhere.  To  the  Athenaeum  he  will  go,  of 
course,  and  view  the  cariosities  which  have  been  col- 
lected by  the  inhabitants,  who  have  s ^iled  in  every  sea. 

This  island  was  no  doubt,  known  more  or  less  by 
the  Northmen,  who  visited  these  regions  at  the  close 
of  the  tenth,  and  at  the  beginning  of  the  eleventh 
century.  The  first  modern  colonists  landed  in  1G59, 
having  come  thither  from  Salisbury,  Mass.  These 
were  Thomas  Macy  and  his  family,  who  had  incurred 
the  displeasure  of  their  friends  by  the  harboring  of 
four.  Quakers,  who  sought  protection  during  a  storm. 
This  island  being  at  that  time  under  the  jurisdiction  of 
New  York,  Mr.  Macy  was  safe  from  persecution. 

The  local  history  tells  us  that  the  first  spermaceti 
whale  was  killed  in  1712,  and  that  this  circumstance 
led  to  the  fitting  out  of  a  vessel  for  a  six  week's  cruise, 
and  afterwards  to  great  prosperity.  In  1791,  Nan- 
tucket whalers  started  for  the  Pacific.  At  that  time 
the  Beaver,  Capt.  Paul  Worth,  doubled  Cape  Horn, 
and  was  gone  seventeen  months. 

The  island  was  originally  well  wooded  and  well 
peopled  by  the  Red  Men ;  the  last  of  whom  died  many 
years  ago,  and  is  immortalized  by  having  his  portrait 
hung  up  in  the  AthenaBum.  They  were  nearly  all 
swept  away  by  an  epidemic  in  1764.  In  1846,  a  great 
fire  well  nigh  destroyed  the  town  ;  and  at  the  present 
time  the  inhabitants  have  been  reduced  from  upwards 
of  nine  to  foui*  thousand.    There  is  fine  sea-bathing : 


Nantucket. 


119 


well 
lany 
[•trait 
all 
rreat 
ksent 
lards 


and  admirable  fishiDg  to  be  enjoyed,  f^hark  catchiog 
forms  a  great  source  of  sport,  and  the  pnicess  is  well 
described  in  an  article  to  be  found  in  Harper's 
Monthly.  ^ 


!.y 


!> 


M 


THE    ELIZABETH    ISLES. 


CHAPTER    X. 


NAUSH015r— PASQXJE— NASHAWENA— CUTTYHUNK. 


if! 


/a 

1 

HE    ELIZABETH   ISLES.      Elizabeth 
is  the  pleasant  name  given  to  a  string  of 
beautiful   islands   that   stretch   southwest 
from   Wood's   Hole,  which   forias,  so  to 
speak,  the  heel  of  Cape  Cod.     The  neare;t  to   the 
main  land   is  Naushon,  to  reach  which  one   crosses 
a  narrow  strait,  full  of  dangerous  rocks,  and  through 
which  the  steamer  takes  her  devious  way,  stemming 
a  violent  tide.     With  an  experienced  boatman  famil- 
iar with  the  place,  the  passage  is  easily  made  in  a 
small   boat.      Strangers    should   take   care   lest    the 
boat    irifs   when   the  wind   and    tide   suddenly   be- 
come opposed.     This  island  of  Naushon  is  a  delight- 
ful  place,  and  is   the  private  proper!:y  of  John  M. 
Forbes,  Esq.,  of  Boston.     It  has  some  noble  forests, 
and  an  abundance  of  deer,  in  connection  with  which 
the   proprietor  gives  an   annual  hunt.     This  is  the 
resort  of  artists,  who  find  many  fine  sea-coast  studies. 
The  island  is  about  eight   miles   long,  and  has  some 
beautiful  drives.     On  the  east  side  is  Tarpaulin  Cove, 


The  Elizabeth  Isles. 


121 


'5. 


JNK. 

nizabeth 
string  of 
outliwest 
IS,  30  to 
t  to   the 
}   crosses 
through 
itemming 
,n  famil- 
,de  in  a 
llest   the 
nly  be- 
dehght- 
["ohn  M. 
forests, 
which 
(s  is  the 
[studies. 
IS  some 
In  Cove, 


which  at  certain   times  presents  a  forest  of  masts, 
owing  to  the  number  of  wind-bound  vessels.    Next  in 
the  string  of  Islands  is  Pasque ;  thence  comes  Nasha- 
wena  ;  near  by  are  the  "  Sow  and  Pigs ;"  and  finally 
comes   famous   Cuttyhunk,  where,  in  the  year  1602, 
Bartholomew   Gosnold  undertook  to   form  a  settle- 
ment, and  where  he  actually  began  planting.     On  a 
li  'le  island,  in  the  centre  of  a  pond,  a  small.fort  was 
built,   all  traces  of    which  have   now   disappeared. 
From  a  distance  the  island  appears   quite   sightly. 
Some  years  since  the  Massachusetts  Historical  Society 
held  an  informal  meeting  at  this  place,  for  the  purpose 
of   studying  the   situation,  in   connection   with  the 
historical  associations.     There  are  only  a  few  houses 
on  the  island,  which  has  been  leasefl  by  a  New  York 
club.     In  the  summer  season,  a  small  steamer  makes 
regular  trips  to  the  island  from  New  Bedford.     This 
entire   region  is  characterized   by  many  attractions ; 
and  the  summer  tourist  who  takes  the  pains  to  explore 
the  island  will  find  himself  amply  repaid. 


BUZZARD'S    BA  F. 


CHAPTER    XI. 


MonumeiJt  —  Maeion  —  Mattapoisett  —  Fairhaven  - 

New  Bedford. 

lUZZARD'S  BAY.  Buzzard's  Bay  \% 
formed  by  an  arm  of  the  sea  entering  tho 
southern  part  of  Massachusetts,  and  re- 
ducing Cape  Cod  almost  to  an  island. 
The  distance  across  the  narrow  neck  of  land  at  the 
head  of  the  Bay  is  only  a  few  miles.  The  importance 
of  completi?ag  the  connection  between  Buzzard's  Bay 
and  Cape  Cod  Bay  was  so  obvious  that  the  Pilgrims 
suggested  a  canal,  while  Washington  in  his  day,  urged 
it  upon  Congress.  As  a  matter  of  economy,  at  least, 
this  work  will  one  day  be  finished ;  the  7nillions,  even, 
required  to  complete  the  ship  canal  being  prospectively 
saved  by  the  decrease  of  wreckage  and  insurance  on 
the  dangerous  outside  voyage  between  New  York  and 
Boston.  The  day  is  therefore  coming  when  Buzzard's 
Bay  will  be  alive  with  a  great  commerce  ;  but  at  the 
present  time  it  is  a  quiet  place  indeed,  its  shores  being 
dotted  only  here  and  there  with  very  quiet  towns. 
In  striking  the   eastern  shore,   we  find  pleasant 


Buzzard's  Bay. 


123 


YEN- 

lay    i» 
ng  tho 
md  re- 
island. 
at  the 
rtance 
's  Bay 
lilgrims 
urged  , 
least, 
J,  even, 
Ictively 
Ince  on 
rk  and 
Izzard's 
at  the 
heing 

IS. 

ieasant 


scenery.  Two  or  three  miles  north  of  Wood's  Hole, 
is  the  charming  little  harbor  of  Quesset,  where  there 
are  a  few  houses,  and  in  the  summer  a  handful  of 
visitors.  But  we  come  at  no  considerable  village 
until  we  arrive  at  Monument,  at  the  head  of  the  Bay. 
We  do  not  care,  however,  to  linger  here,  but  pass 
over  to  the  west  side  of  the  bay  and  find  pleasant 
summer  resort  at  Marion,  on  the  Fairhaven  Branch 
Railroad.  It  has  an  excellent  hotel,  the  "  Great  Hill 
House,"  with  fine  scenery,  bathing  and  drives. 

In  passing  down  the  west  sidf  of  the  Bay  towards 
New  Bedford,  we  reach  the  Mattapoisett  House, 
admirably  kept  by  Mr.  J.  A.  D.  Worcester.  This  is 
a  remarkably  quiet  place,  containing  a  population  of 
about  sixteen  hundred.  The  fisherman  will  here 
enjoy  great  sport,  as  tautog,  bass,  blue  fish,  &c.,  are 
very  abundant.  For  a  description  of  the  place  we 
quote  the  happy  language  of  another  : 

"The  first  glance  at  the  town  provokes  reflection. 
The  condition  of  the  wharves  and  ruined  smithies  and 
sail-lofts  and  other  dilapidated  buildings,  once  the 
necessary  adjuncts  of  a  prosperous  commerce,  form 
a  sad  commentary  on  its  present  business  status. 
Once  its  wharves  were  crowded  with  shipping,  princi- 
pally whalers ;  ships  were  being  built  and  fitted  out, 
and  the  town  echoed  to  all  the  attendant  sounds  of  an 
active  and  thriving  people,  but  now,  alas!  silence 
reigns  supreme  at  noonday — the  ships  have  departed 
probably   never   again   to   return  ;  the  wharves  have 


124 


Buzzard's  Bay. 


fallen  to  decay  and  are  mere  heaps  of  stone  ;  and  her 
bronzed  sons  who  planned,  wrought  and  toiled,  and 
went  "  down  to  the  sea  in  ships,"  to  gather  wealth  from 
old  ocean,  have  gone  the  way  of  the  living,  while 
their  sons  are  scattered  abroad,  leaving  only  a  wreck 
of  ancient  prosperity  around  the  old  hearthstone. 

"  And  yet  with  the  vein  of  sadness  which  the  town 
provokes,  we  look  out  from  the  hotel  upon  one  of  the 
finest  harbors  imaginable.  The  waves  ripple  and 
sparkle  almost  at  our  feet,  with  an  unvarying  temper- 
ature, kindled  by  a  swirl  of  the  Gulf  Stream,  to  70 
degrees.  A  few  pleasure  boats  rock  gently  at  the 
crumbling  wharves,  perchance  a  fifty  ton  sloop  is  land- 
ing a  little  coastwise  commerce,  now  and  then  a  boat 
passes  and  repasses  trawling  for  squetaug,  dashing  the 
spray  lightly  as  she  careens  to  the  breeze,  wit^.  her 
sparkling  crew  of  broad-brimmed  pleasure  seekers  of 
both  sexes,  singing  as  they  sail.  The  blue  shores  of 
the  Bay  are  seen  ten  or  fifteen  miles  away,  with  now 
and  then  a  square  rigger  passing  up  to  New  Bedford ; 
the  lighthouse  glistens  on  the  point  and  the  gentle 
breeze  from  the  west  fans  the  brow  as  we  look  out 
upon  the  peaceful  panorama  of  sea  and  shore. 
Everything  invites  to  repose,  and  the  hash  of  the 
town  is  only  now  and  then  broken  at  noonday  by  the 
rumble  of  a  farm  wagon,  or  by  the  screech  of  a  steam 
whistle  at  the  box-mill,  which  seems  quite  out  of 
place,  as  heralding,  rather  obtrusively,  the  only  spot 
in  the  town  where  man  is  called  regularly  to  daily  toil. 


-  \ 


Buzzard's  Bay. 


125 


"And  so  even  with  this  imperfect  picture  of  the 
town,  drawn  in  the  vein  of  its  influence  and  associations, 
who  shall  say  it  is  not  a  fitting  place  for  one's  vacation 
days.  To  us  it  peems  the  we  'plm  ultra  of  repose,  all 
nicely  shaped  by  circumstances  as  a  retreat  from  city 
life.  And  the  same  ideas  seem  to  impress  all  visitors 
alike  and  they  enjoy  the  pleasures  of  the  town  with 
the  same  school-boy  abandon  that  characterized  that 
large  party  of  grave  seniors  who  paid  the  town  a  visit 
recently,  disported  themselves  and  broke  bread  with 
the  Selectmen  at  Purrington  Hall." 

In  passing  on  we  next  reach  Fairhaven,  on  the  east 
bank  of  the  Acuslmet  River,  opposite  New  Bedford. 
It  is  not,  however,  known  to  any  great  extent  as  a 
summer  resort. 

Next  comes  New  Bedford,  fifty-five  miles  from 
Boston  by  rail.  With  a  population  of  22,000,  it  is  one 
of  the  finest  sea  coast  cities  of  New  England ;  and  the 
people  are  characterized  by  much  intelligence  and 
refinement,  the  evidence  of  which  is  found  in  the 
manner  employed  by  so  many  in  the  use  of  their 
wealth.  There  are  fine  drives  in  the  vicinity,  and  two 
excellent  hotels,  the  Parker  and  the  Mansion  House. 
At  New  Bedford  we  leave  the  subject  of  Buzzard's 
Bay. 


NEWPORT, 

CHAPTER    XII. 

Th^  Hoethmen  —  Verrazano  —  Bekkley— Old  Mill— 
The  Beaches— Purgatory. 


ARRAGANSET  BAY  is  an  arm  of  ihe 

sea  extending  nortliward  into  Rhode  Isl- 
and, being  somewhat  blocked   up   at   the 
entrance  by  the  long  island  upon  which 
the  city  of  Newport  is  built. 

Here  we  enter  upon  decidedly  historical  ground. 
First  of  all,  we  have  the  story  of  the  Northmen,  those 
bold  Icelanders  who  came  down  the  coast  from  their 
colonies  in  Greenland,  and  explored  this  entire  region 
to  which  various  voyages  were  made  between  the 
years  1000 — 1012.*  Then  comes  the  story  of  Ver- 
razano,  who  probably  visited  the  harbor  of  Newport  in 
the  year  1527.  At  an  early  period  in  the  colonial 
history  (1627),  the  place  was  settled.  It  was  also  for 
a  time  the  home  of  the  famous  Bishop  Berkeley.  The 
great  attraction,  however,  is  the  pure  air,  and  the 

•  The  latest  and  fullest  account  of  these  voyages  may  be  found  in 
"  The  Pre-Columbian  Discovery  of  America  by  the  Northmen."  By 
B.  F.  DeCosta.    Albany:  JoelMunsell.    1868. 


Newport. 


127 


in 

By 


bathing  facilities,  which  have  rendered  Newport 
famous  the  world  over,  so  that  any  lengthy  descrip- 
tion here  would  be  needless.  The  place  is  reached 
by  rail  from  Boston,  distant  72  miles,  and  from  New 
York  by  the  steamer,  200  miles.  The  chief  hotels 
are  the  Ocean  and  Atlantic  Houses. 

There  are  four  beaches,  three  of  which  are  situated 
east  of  the  city.  The  Rocks  are  very  fine  in  this 
regior.,  and  as  at  Nahant  they  have  their  histories  and 
legends.  Fort  Adams  commands  the  entrance  to  the 
Harbor;  and  opposite  this  place  may  be  seen  the 
remains  of  Fort  Dumpling,  a  relic  of  the  Revolution, 
during  which  period  the  place  was  somewhat  cele- 
brated. 

Amongst  the  attractions  of  the  place  arc  the  Red- 
wood Library  and  the  Old  Stone  Mill,  whose  origin 
has  never  been  fully  demonstrated.  It  would  be  diffi- 
cult to  prove  that  it  was  built  by  the  Northmen,  not- 
withstanding the  fact  that  they  visited  these  coasts. 
There  is  also  Trinity  Church,  built  150  years  ago. 
The  drives  are  everywhere  fine.  Concerning  the 
place  known  as  "  Purgatory,"  one  says : 

"  Purgatory^  near  Sachuset  Beach,  is  the  name  given 
to  an  immense,  dark  chasm  in  a  bold  front  of  rocks, 
called  the  Bluff.  It  is  IGO  feet  in  length,  from  8  to 
14  feet  wide,  and  50  feet  deep.  It  is  supposed  that 
these  rocks  were  thus  divided  by  some  sudden  up- 
heaval of  the  range  at  this  point,  although  others  give 
it  as  their  opinion  that  it  resulted  from  the  washing  of 


I 


U 


128 


Newport, 


the  ocean  at  an  early  period  in  the  world's  history. 
It  requires  some  courage  aud  nerve  to  step  to  the 
brink  and  look  down  into  those  *  horrid  jaws.'  Near 
it  are  the  Hanging  Rocks,  *■  within  whose  shadow  it 
is  said  that  Bishop  Berkeley  wrote  his  Minute  Philoi- 
opher.* " 


NARRAGANSET    BAY, 

CHAPTER    XIII. 

Providence— Rocky  Point--Mount  Hope— Apponauo— 

Point  Judith. 


|HE  most  beautiful  of  the  many  New 
England  bays  is  the  * Narraganset'  It 
is  situated  within  the  boundaries  of  the 
State  of  Rhode  Island,  extending  near- 
ly thirty  miles  inland,  in  a  northerly  direction,  and 
not  exceeding  fifteen  miles  m  width.  It  receives 
its  name  from  a  noted  and  powerful  tribe  of  Indians 
who  formerly  held  possession  of  its  islands  and  adja- 
cent territory,  and  the  numerous  contests  of  the  early 
settlers  with  the  *  red  men '  have  rendered  it  and  its 
vicinity  rich  in  historic  interest.  It  is  very  irregular 
in  its  outline,  being  itself  composed  of  its  congeries  of 
bays  and  sounds.  It  is  this  very  irregularity,  however, 
that  gives  it  a  peculiar  charm,  and  one  has  no  sooner 
entered  it  than  he  seems  to  be  sailing  over  s  ^ 
inland  lake,  instead  of  an  arm  of  the  sea.  Within  it 
is  the  Island  of  Rhode  of  Rhode  Island,  from  which 
the  State  receives  its  name,  upon  which  is  situated 

Newport,  one  of  its  capitals,  and  whose  beauty  and 

9 


130 


Narragansct  Bay. 


^n 


commercial  advantages  arc  widely  known.  Other 
islands  are  scattered  over  its  surface,  enhancing  its 
beauty."  '        . 

At  the  head  of  the  Bay  stands  the  far-famed  city 
of  Providence,  founded  by  Roger  Williams  in  1G35, 
having  its  University  and  other  public  institutions. 
This  city  forms  a  pivotal  position  for  tourists  who 
desire  to  become  acquainted  with  the  Bay.  Near  the 
edge  of  the  city,  on  Sekonk  River,  is  AVhat  Cheer 
Rock,  where  Rogers  was  fii'st  greeted  by  the  Indians. 

Rocky  Point  is  a  beautiful  summer  retreat  on  the 
west  shore  of  the  bay.  Steamers  run  daily,  in  the 
summer  seasom,  to  all  the  various  points  in   the  bay. 

Mount  Hope,  so  celebrated  in  !New  England  his- 
tory, is  on  the  cast  side  of  the  bay,  just  below  Bristol. 
The  summit  of  this  height  affords  a  fine  view  of  the 
waters  far  and  near.  Opposite  the  mount  is  the  city 
of  Fall  River. 

The  towns  on  the  west  side  of  the  bay  are  Warick, 
Greenwich  and  Kingston.  Warick  is  52  miles  from 
Boston  via  the  Providence  Railroad  It  contains  a 
number  of  villages,  amongst  which  is  Apponaug,  on 
the  northern  extremity  of  Greenwich  Bay,  already 
mentioned.  It  has  manufactories  of  needle-threaders, 
woolen  yarn,  cigars,  etc.,  also  an  academy  and  several 
private  schools.  About  a  mile  from  Apponaug  is  a 
huge  rock,  so  nicely  balanced  upon  another  that  a  boy 
can  set  it  in  motion,  producing  a  noise  heard  some- 
times to  the   distance  of  six  and  even  eight  miles. 


le- 

Les. 


LONG  ISLAND  SOUND. 

CHAPTER  XIV. 

Stonington — Mystic— GuiLPOKD — Buandfoud — East  IIa- 
TEN— Fairhaven — New  IIaven — Stkatfoud — Eye  BeaciI| 
New  York— Lono  Island— Staten  Island. 

ROCEEDING  southward  on  the  Connecti- 
cut coast  bordering  Long  Island  Sound, 
the  first  place  of  importance  found  is 
Stonington,  138  miles  from  New  York  City. 
It  is  an  ancient  town  settled  in  1649.  The  harbor, 
which  possesses  the  usual  advantages  for  boating  and 
fishing,  is  protected  by  a  breakwater.  The  principal 
hotel  is  the  "  Waddamonach. " 

Four  miles  farther  on  is  Mystic,  lying  on  both  sides 
of  the  river  by  this  name.  Here  took  place  the  Pequot 
Massacre,  May  20,  1637.  Groton  is  127  miles  from 
New  York,  and  New  London  is  126  miles.  The  latter 
is  now  a  fashionable  summer  resort,  and  is  reached 
either  by  rail  or  by  steamer  from  New  York.  The 
town  was  settled  in  1645  by  John  Winthrop,  and  is 
situated  on  the  west  bank  of  the  River  Thames.  The 
"Pequot  House  "  is  the  famous  summer  hotel. 

The  next  point  of  interest  is  Guilford,  92  miles  from 
New  York.  This  is  an  ancient  town,  admirably 
adapted  to  the  wants  of  qmct  ^^^oj^h.  "Sachem's 
Head  "  is  the  chief  resort  of  visitors.  Here  may  be 
found  fine  boating  and  bathing.  Guilford  is  the  birth- 
place of  Halleck,  the  Poet. 


132 


Long  Island  Sound, 


Proceeding  on  our  way,  we  have  the  following  stations: 
Braudford,  84  miles  ;  East  Haven,  81  miles  ;  Fuirhaven, 
78,  and  New  Haven,  75  miles  from  New  York.  But 
of  New  Haven,  near  the  sea,  we  need  not  here  speak. 
Going jon,  therefore,  two  miles,  we  reach  West  Ilavon 
also  near  the  shore,  the  Savin  Rock  House,  a  favorite 
seaside  resort,  being  only  four  miles  distant. 

The  rest  of  the  stations  may  be  given  as  follows  with 
their  distances  from  New  York :  Milford,  G7  miles  ; 
Stratford,  62;  Bridgeport,  69;  Fairfield,  54;  South- 
port,  52  ;  Norwalk,  45 ;  Stamford,  37 ;  Port  Chester, 
(New  York,)  29;  Mamaroneck,  24;  New  Rochelle, 
20  ;  Mount  Yernon,  17  miles  from  New  York  City. 

In  passing  along  the  coast,  the  tourist  has  many 
pleasant  views  of  Long  Island  Sound,  and  may  find 
various  quiet  summer  resorts.  Rye  Beach  should  be 
specially  mentioned. 

After  leaving  Mount  Yernon,  on  the  way  to  New 
York,  there  is  nothing  of  especial  interest  to  speak  of 
until  we  ^each  the  city,  which  must  be  seen  by  the  aid 
of  a  local  guide. 

From  New  York  City  wo  reach  Long  Island,  a  place 
possessing  many  attractions.  The  various  points  are 
connected  with  the  city  by  steamboats  and  railroads. 

Brooklyn,  opposite  New  York  City,  is  worth  visiting, 
if  one  has  the  time  to  give  ;  but  tourists  will  generally 
prefer  to  proceed  to  the  Long  Island  Railroad  Station 
at  Hunter's  Point,  and  go  on  with  little  delay.  This 
road  extends  to  Greenpoint,  94  miles  distant  on  the 
Sound  at  the  east  end  of  the  Island,  and  has  branches 
to  Locust  Valley,  Northport,  and  Sag  Harbor.  Green- 
port  has  all  the  seaside  attractions,  tjie  same  may  be 
said  of  East  Hampton.    The  trip  to  Montauk  Point 


Lo7tg  Island  Sound. 


133 


Lce 
ire 


ig, 


must  bo  done  by  staojo  from  Greenport.  The  latter 
place  is  now  connected  with  Newport  by  steamer, 
and  by  this  route  passengers  are  going  from  Kew  York 
and  Boston. 

The  South  Side  Railroad  extends  54  miles  to  Pat- 
chogue.  By  this  road,  which  runs  from  East  Brook- 
lyn, we  reach  Rockaway  Beach  (21  miles  distant),  and 
also  Babylon. 

Fire  Island  is  35  miles  from  New  York  City,  and  to 
reach  the  place  the  tourist  gets  out  at  Bay  Side  and 
takes  the  steamer  across  South  Bay. 

On  the  South  Side  Road  is  Islip,  43  miles  from  New 
York  ;  this  is  a  rapidly  growing  place,  attracting  many 
summer  visitors. 

The  third  railroad  is  the  New  York  and  Flushing, 
which  runs  from  Hunter's  Point  to  Great  Neck,  on  the 
Sound. 

Coney  Island,  on  the  south  sMe  of  Long  Island  may 
be  reached  by  the  horse-cars  from  Brooklyn.  Various 
steamers  run  in  the  summer  season  to  resorts  on  the 
North  side. 

Next  we  turn  to  Staten  Island,  often  compared  with 
the  "  Isle  of  Wight. "  The  South  Shore  Railroad  runs 
from  Stapleton  to  Tottenville,  opposite  Amboy,  New 
Jersey.  Stapleton  is  reached  by  the  steamer  leaving 
New  York  at  the  foot  of  Whitehall  Street,  hourly. 
The  north  shore  of  the  island  is  reached  by  a  boat  that 
leaves  one  of  the  piers  of  the  North  River.  The  prin- 
cipal point  on  the  north  shore  is  New  Brighton,  where 
there  are  various  hotels.  Staten  Island  forms  one  side 
of  what  is  known  as  "  Kills, "  a  narrow  passage  between 
the  Island  and  the  Jersey  shore.  Of  the  latter  place 
we  must  next  speak. 


THE  JERSEY  COAST, 

CHAPTER  XV. 

Staten  Island— New  Buicuton — Bergen  Point— Eliza- 
BETU — Amboy— Pout  Monmoutu— Navesink — Red  Bank 
— LoNa  Bkancii — Cape  May.  i 

HE  attraction  of  the  Jersey  coast  is  found 

in  tlie  pure  air  and  tlie  sea  bathing,  in 

connection  witli  the  accessibility  of  the 

various  resorts. 

The  railroad  lines  abound  with  accommodation,  but 

in  this  guide  we  are  to  keep  as  much  as  possible  to  the 

sea. 

In  leaving  Ntw  York  the  steamer  usually  goes  out- 
side of  Staten  Island,  but  we  are  fortunate  if  we 
go  through  the  Kills,  as  the  views  are  animated  and 
charming,  the  water  being  covered  with  all  kinds  of 
craft,  while  the  shores  are  lined  with  beautiful  villas. 
If  we  are  going  to  Long  Branch,  we  take  the  steamer 
at  Pier  28,  North  River,  to  Sandy  Hook  and  Port  Mon- 
mouth, distant  20  miles.  On  our  left,  we  see  New 
Brighton  and  the  neighboring  towns  ;  and  on  the  right, 
Bergen  Point,  Elizabethport  and  Amboy.  The  de- 
lightful views  will  everywhere  enchain  the  attention. 

In  pleasant  weather  steamers  go  outside,  and  on 
reaching  Port  Monmouth  the  tourist  takes  the  train 
for  Long  Branch,  since  from  this  point  wc  must  view 
the  shore  from  the  inland.    At  a  distance  of  four  miles 


The  Jersey  Coast. 


135 


but 


we  reach  the  Higlilands  of  Xavesink,  a  range  of  liills  ex- 
tcndmg  from  Sandy  Hook  to  Raritan  Bay.  The  high- 
est of  these  is  "Mount  Mitchell,"  282  feet  above  the 
sea.  These  highlands,  crowned  Avith  a  couple  of  light 
houses  about  one  hundred  feet  apart,  are  famous  land- 
marks for  ships  approaching  the  coast.  Here  may  be 
found  hotels,  good  walks  and  drives,  with  lishing  and 
bathing. 

Six  miles  from  Port  Monmouth  is  Red  Bank,  a  de- 
lightful summer  resort,  with  everything  to  make  life 
agreeable.  Five  miles  farther  on  is  Oceanport,  and 
finally,  at  a  distance  of  31  miles  from  New  York  we 
reach  the  world-renowned  Long  Brancli. 

iThe  attempt  to  describe  Long  Branch  must  always 
prove  a  failure,  and,  therefore,  the  individual  would  do 
well  to  go  and  see  it  for  himself,  with  its  scores  of 
hotels,  its  crush  of  visitors,  and  its  unequalled  attrac- 
tions of  sea,  sky  and  land.  We  could  not  begin  even 
to  mention  the  names  of  the  hotels. 

Those  who  wish  to  enjoy  all  the  advantages  of  Long 
Branch  in  a  quiet  way,  have  only  to  go  on  5  miles  to 
Deal. 

Whoever  wishes  to  visit  Atlantic  City  can  go  on  from 
Long  Branch  by  rail.  This  place  is  GO  miles  from 
Philadelphia,  and  133  from  New  York.  It  is  a  famous 
watering-place,  and  the  hotels  are  open  from  July 
until  the  middle  of  September. 

Finally  we  have  to  speak  of  Cape  May,  which  forms 
the  extreme  southern  point  of  New  Jersey,  standing 
opposite  Cape  Ilenelopen.  Here  is  a  smooth,  firm 
beach,  five  miles  long,  which  affords  a  splendid  drive. 
The  hotels  stand  on  Cape  Island,  a  piece  of  land  com- 
prising two  or  tlu'ee  hundred  acres.    The  hotels  are 


136 


The  Jer^y  Coast 


h 


numerous,  and  in  the  height  of  the  season  are  crowded 
by  fashionable  visitors,  especially  from  Philadelphia 
and  the  South.  Cape  May  is  reached  by  rail  from  both 
N'ew  York  and  Philadelphia.  The  principal  resort 
here  is  Cold  Spring,  two  miles  from  the  Cape  on  the 
line  of  the  railroad.  Cape  May  is  well  known  as 
"health's  cheerful  haunt;'*  at  least  thousands  have 
found  it  so. 


I 


OLB  COLONY  MAIILMOAD 


SCAEEIO  MITES  TOANINCa* 
IEJ4.  WIM'SXO'W.  DEI.. 


